Day 56: (8 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Go to Mark Cross gallery. Ahi didn’t charge for post card.
- Rent car with Alexa. Drive to east coast. Took Liku rd. instead of Hapuku, so came across Vaikona first. Was expecting Togo. Return bike.
- Hear from Ira trail has been improved & is possible to do walk without guide, just don’t go into the caves. Very careful, as people have been lost for days before. Also the LP story of author getting lost.
- Careful not to park directly under coconut tree.
- Long trail, some markers in vital areas. Almost lost trail a few times. I look back from time to time to remember, Alexa break luku leaves to mark. Use fern leaf to fend off spider webs. Lots of them. By return, some webs almost fully rebuilt.
- Forest, then climb over many sharp coral rocks. Very tight section under pandanus roots. Like a tunnel. Mostly between rocks, short overgrown “outside” section.
- Near cave, a few sudden dropoffs & ends of “fake trails” into chasm.
- Random sign warning of falling rocks in cave.
- Willy does tours here, but he’s busy with fishing these days (asked last night), which he will always prefer. Apparantly he only started charging for tours 1 or 2 years ago. Cool natural coral spiral staricase.
- Nest of baby spiders, almost run into on way back.
- Climb into cave. Alexa stay, I go down a bit using rope. Warning about a point past which is nearly impossible to return. With Willy, can do all the way down, & using torch, can swim through caves to near ocean.
- Concerned about rope, but not very frayed, so OK. Sharp coral rocks a concern.
- Descended to ledge, see blue pool surrounded by green plants & ferns. Tranquil, with dripping water.
- Sloping cave wall. Large chunks of cave ceiling overturned on ground.
- Found much easier way up along the ledge a bit when climb back up.
- Trail seem t o continue, possibly to coral spires, but Alexa say Togo similar, so didn’t go. Enough of rough track. Supposedly only difference is that you can walk around the spires at Vaikona, only one track at Togo.
- Slip, stub toe on coral rock. Small cut & crack in nail.
- Snack of coconut bread & spreads.
- Continue to Togo. Drove past the 2 old ladies in car going in opposite direction.
- Steep stair track. Names written in concrete. “cute” step.
- Spires under a cliff. Ocean past that. Alexa says greener than a few fears ago. Spires unlike anything I’ve seen before. Amazing & beautiful. What formed the spires?
- Togo Chasm: chasm in the spires, hidden quite well other than the palm tops.
- Before chasm; Nice place to watch the waves crash below. Reddish rocks. Rock bridge.
- Tall wood ladder down to sand & palm trees.
- Climb over rocks (very sharp), stagnant pool in back. Narrow chasm with line of palms. A few slimy things that look like crushed slugs on the rocks. Some palm debris.
- Small cave by ladder. wade through (sea) water. Climb over rocks, reach a cave with some openings on roof. Main opening across from stone arch. Large waves cause water to rush into cave & to base of our rocks. Loud roaring. Cannon-fire sounds when water spurt through rock to right, close to us.
- Water coming in cave reminds me of the Universal Studios (Earthquake?) ride.
- Photos with tripod on return. Look for the classic shot spot. See a ridge along coral rocks by path, surprisingly well formed natural path, but steep drop-offs along both sides. Great view of chasm & pinnacles/cliffs/ocean.
- Decide Niue is the worst place to trip & fall.
Check order of visit for notes below:
- Go to Tamakautoga for swim. Nice beach (rough sand), but not much snorkelling. Sit & watch ocean for a while. Alexa & Ira found skinny-dippers here. See camoflauged flounder, pink rock with spots. Left after get camera. Hunting small fish that was around.
- Stop at sign that says Pofitu. Nice seclued beach. Steep steps. No railings on bottom set. Built on overhang cliff.
End check order section.
- Israel Mart for ice cream (NZ). Guy has heavy Israeli accent. No smoked fish or fresh today. Will smoke fish w/ honey & lime next day. Bought “Pacific” corned beef. “Best kind.” According to a few. Dissappointed as Made in Aus. “to NZ recipe.”
- Alexa ask $60 for car, steep, since car is $52/day, petrol can’t be that much! But she seems to not realise how much she ask for, & want to support, so give $60. Or maybe there was something I didn't understand?
- Jim call me down for drink when see me through window in kitchen. Didn’t get a chance to join.
- Made the poumere seeds. A bit peanutty. According to Ira, huhu grubs taste a bit like peanut butter.
- Chat & drink with people until ~1am, since last night. Ira gave dinner made from leftovers: taro, etc, real corned beef. Meat. I give Alexa & Ira/Brian the leftover food I had. Didn’t get to eat the Pacific canned beef.
- Alexa stay up until 3am.
- Feel sick, drink too much. Threw up a bit. In 3 drinking sessions, drank well over 1 bttl (1L bottles?) of liquor. Nothing to do at night in Niue other than drink.
- Picture of Niue Yatch club sign. No Yatchs in club. Lucy the dog is in it.
- Brian drink a lot. Story about how Alexa had to drive 1st backpackers to night flight: Brian drunk enough to fall down steps.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
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