Day 79: (31 July 2011):
- Breakfast & decide take walk. 20k fee past a point. Don Khone visit fee.
- Small wat. Walk by pretty rice paddies & nursing cows to waterfall.
- Wide rapids & falls. Lots of water, even though this is a small segment of Mekong. Not the biggest falls. Charge for parking if come by bike. Series of bridges lead past houses & souvenier stores. Felix pick up rubbish, I don’t think will have any long term effect. Walk around. Some villages fishing, reparing fish nets in store. Surprising amount of tourists (mainstream).
- Continue walk to a “beach” where dolphin-watching boats go. Beach is muddy, water murkey. Fast-flowing, wonder haw a group of kayakers will return.
- Decide leave Si Phan Don tomorrow, didn’t realy need to relax & zone out here.
- Walk over to railroad - turns out is now a road. Decided not to get bicycles due to not sure if can bike down railroad.
- Long walk down track to south tip of Don Khone. Rain. Help person fix fallen off bicycle chain. Felix get in and hands covered in grease, I direct a bit. Everyone else on bikes. Kids. Eventually walk along river, then docks. Beautiful forest. Multi-level docks (built by French). Restaurant on side.
- No boat to waterfalls, even though on sign. Decide to go see dolpuins. Wait for boat driver to arrive on scooter: ~10 min. Lifejackets. (Req. of tour companies? Surprised they wanted us to wear them).
- 60k for boat + 20k / each for visit fee to Cambodia. Sign: $2 for visitors, & visitors from Laos.
- Can see Cambodian & building across, nice mountains.
- Very short boat ride across. Tell us to watch dolphins from building/benches.
- Me; “lamest dolphin-watching trip ever.”
- Sit by shore (chairs ppl bring out) then a bench on a floating dock.
- See dolphins breaching from time to time. Some barrel rolling, etc. Models of dolphins around.
- Start rain, sit in the snack shop/observation deck. Winter melon juice. Angkor beer available but decide not have. Charged in kip, even when ppl. beside us charged in $.
- Boat driver join others in watching boxing.
- Head back in small break in rain. Downpour after arrive. Beautiful view of mountains & rain approaching from there.
- See the tuktuk / tour cart, ask: say leave in 10 min. Ride offered on scooter, but we say prefer covered vehicle. Wait in lifejacket shed.
- Tourists return on boat with French guide. Ask for ride in French. Turns out is a family on package tour, give us free ride. Joked first in French it depends on how much we pay.
- Chat to them, Duck wet branches hitting roof. Get dropped off before bridge. Decide get lunch at LP rec’ed place: “since we have tickets to this side of town.”
- Restaurant with precariously leaning platform over river. Slow service. Scoop flush toilets. Laap & sticky rice for 1st time. Very good. LP rec’ed not on menu. Rain.
- Stop by hotel & ask about bus to Thakek. Say leave 11am & arrive 1am. Can also leave 6:30am, local buses, can arrive earlier. We’ll think about it.
- Decide explore Don Det since leave tomorrow.
- Walk across bridge. Muddy. Nice view. River & guesthouses lining it.
- More idyllic vilages. Reach the French loading dock. Entire path used to be rail line. Small stupas in fields from time to time.
- Village is muddy. Higher concentration of tourists. Lots of bars & stores with snacks (for the munchies?). Monkey on chain. Seemed to be playing with it & swinging.
- Booked bus ticket: leave 11am, arrive 8. Notice the ticket had 8am arrival on it later on, not sure what happened.
- Nice atmosphere. Must be very nice in dry season. Rain.
- Walk back in dark. Frog sounds & fireflies. Cars/trucks with broken headlights are a bit surprising when passing. Nice lights by river. ->short clothes line on deck. Hammock, but not very comfortable.
- Dinner, chat with french girls.
- Talking in room before bed: possible “shut up (old French guy?)” from neighbour, although couldn’t tell if it was of directed at us as there were talking sounds there too, sounds like they were having a conversation or something. The lady started asking us if we were staying tonight the next morning when we use internet, but went away when we say we leaving, so maybe the “shut up” was directed at us.
- Lots of cats with mangled tails: common in Laos. Why?
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Saturday, July 30, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 78
Day 78: (30 July 2011):
- Wake up, duck foe from LP rec’ed place just across the rad. First time fish sauce didn’t make something better. Made it worse.
- Tuktuk to bus station. Lots of people swarm & ask where we go. & for us to go with them. Do they make commission or something?
- Find a truck bus going to dock at Si Phan Don.
- Pouring rain on way. Even with (Slightly ripped) tarp rain covers down, everyone got a bit wet. Maltese person living in Bangkok with Thai GF.
- Truck slow suddenly (to pick someone up?) & a scooter (w/ bad brakes?) crash into back of truck. Last second swerve didn’t work. Went to side, so at least did not flip into truck. Piece of plastic light cover hid my head. See smashed scooter & 2 lying on ground motionless. Afraid they dead or need CPR, etc. After shock & initial hesitation, join people. Woman unconcious. Man broken leg, see bone moving inside. He play with leg to examine it. Woman no helmit, being mostly ignored. I look at chest to make sure she breathing.
- Pick up & place on sacs of fertiliser in truck & woman on bench.
- Wet, pee? Blood on clothing.
- Stop to let someone off. Someone claim sac being used as pillow. Hold woman’s foot from metal edge.
- When guy beside man leave, I sit down. Man reach out hand, so I hold it. Can only comfort by squeeze hand & smile.
- He go into shock, shake. I wrap his clothes around & comfort him. Felix used one of his jackets? I dissappointed I didn’t volunteer my stuff.
- Woman wrist broken, keep touching it. Ankel may also be broken. Seems disoriented. Worried about brain injury. Felix said when he first walked over, he was afraid of seeing grey matter seeing she did not have a helmet.
- Remember feel horrified when realise we were the ambulance, probably not easy to get one there.
- Smashed scooter.
- Ferry. Nice calm ride across. Barge attatched to swivelling joint & tugboat.
- Stop at simple clinic. Unload people on stretchers. Doctor arrive on scooter to join nurses. Injection. Clinic has sign: Funded by Canada. Don Khong.
- Long stop @ police station. I wash a bit. Finally decide to sit for beer. Told to start going after order, so quickly downed the beer. Eat fruit (logan) that we thought a lady left. Turns out we met with her again and she took the logan.
- See the 2 in van on ferry. IV. Man sitting up. Woman still lying. Smile & small thumbs up.
- Unload fertiliser to other truck (flatbed). We get in & sit on mound of fertiliser bags. Pay driver the 40k fare. Woman get fruit back after all.
- Drive through pretty farmland. Down highway again, all a bit anxious. Guy and kid on scooter at some point, ride close and talk a bit. Notice lack of helmets. Stop at a small town before ferry.
- Expensive ferry. Fast flowing river. Ferry into islands. First Don Det then Don Khone. Heavy rain hit. Lots of guesthouses & white people.
- Wait out rain a bit then found a guesthouse suggested in LP. Very muddy, turns out is a common problem in Laos. Guess this is what we get for coming during wet season. Remember had discussion about it before trip.
- Cute raised rooms. Between river & street.
- Dinner & much-needed beer. Meet the 2 girls (French).
- Lots of frog sounds at night. Strange bullfrog(?) sound. Joke there are lots of women with wood frogs around.
- Wake up, duck foe from LP rec’ed place just across the rad. First time fish sauce didn’t make something better. Made it worse.
- Tuktuk to bus station. Lots of people swarm & ask where we go. & for us to go with them. Do they make commission or something?
- Find a truck bus going to dock at Si Phan Don.
- Pouring rain on way. Even with (Slightly ripped) tarp rain covers down, everyone got a bit wet. Maltese person living in Bangkok with Thai GF.
- Truck slow suddenly (to pick someone up?) & a scooter (w/ bad brakes?) crash into back of truck. Last second swerve didn’t work. Went to side, so at least did not flip into truck. Piece of plastic light cover hid my head. See smashed scooter & 2 lying on ground motionless. Afraid they dead or need CPR, etc. After shock & initial hesitation, join people. Woman unconcious. Man broken leg, see bone moving inside. He play with leg to examine it. Woman no helmit, being mostly ignored. I look at chest to make sure she breathing.
- Pick up & place on sacs of fertiliser in truck & woman on bench.
- Wet, pee? Blood on clothing.
- Stop to let someone off. Someone claim sac being used as pillow. Hold woman’s foot from metal edge.
- When guy beside man leave, I sit down. Man reach out hand, so I hold it. Can only comfort by squeeze hand & smile.
- He go into shock, shake. I wrap his clothes around & comfort him. Felix used one of his jackets? I dissappointed I didn’t volunteer my stuff.
- Woman wrist broken, keep touching it. Ankel may also be broken. Seems disoriented. Worried about brain injury. Felix said when he first walked over, he was afraid of seeing grey matter seeing she did not have a helmet.
- Remember feel horrified when realise we were the ambulance, probably not easy to get one there.
- Smashed scooter.
- Ferry. Nice calm ride across. Barge attatched to swivelling joint & tugboat.
- Stop at simple clinic. Unload people on stretchers. Doctor arrive on scooter to join nurses. Injection. Clinic has sign: Funded by Canada. Don Khong.
- Long stop @ police station. I wash a bit. Finally decide to sit for beer. Told to start going after order, so quickly downed the beer. Eat fruit (logan) that we thought a lady left. Turns out we met with her again and she took the logan.
- See the 2 in van on ferry. IV. Man sitting up. Woman still lying. Smile & small thumbs up.
- Unload fertiliser to other truck (flatbed). We get in & sit on mound of fertiliser bags. Pay driver the 40k fare. Woman get fruit back after all.
- Drive through pretty farmland. Down highway again, all a bit anxious. Guy and kid on scooter at some point, ride close and talk a bit. Notice lack of helmets. Stop at a small town before ferry.
- Expensive ferry. Fast flowing river. Ferry into islands. First Don Det then Don Khone. Heavy rain hit. Lots of guesthouses & white people.
- Wait out rain a bit then found a guesthouse suggested in LP. Very muddy, turns out is a common problem in Laos. Guess this is what we get for coming during wet season. Remember had discussion about it before trip.
- Cute raised rooms. Between river & street.
- Dinner & much-needed beer. Meet the 2 girls (French).
- Lots of frog sounds at night. Strange bullfrog(?) sound. Joke there are lots of women with wood frogs around.
Friday, July 29, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 77
Day 77: (29 July 2011):
- Morning bathroom: straight on tracks. “Helped fertilise rice.”
- Wake up, arrive Ubon, tuktuk drivers waiting at train door.
- Walk around centre. Tourist centre not yet open. Try find toilet for Felix.
- Breakfast @ random noodle place. Language & pay confusion. Like the Thai way of saying thank you. Will miss. Old lady say thank you to us.
- Tourist info open, tell us bus is at 9am to Pakse. Else will be next day. we leave ~8:40, surprisingly difficult to find tuktuk. In hurry, get ripped off. Driver didn’t really respond to our ask price then offer, as if he’s bad at english, then at station he ask for 2x what we offered.
- Turns out bus leaves at 9:30, so made it in good time.
- Stop @ border. Stamp out. Long walk to immigration. Feels like walking through town.
- Didn’t get visa application forms from bus. Asked, get directed around, no form. Get form by standing in line. 10 min warning from bus. Hope is not true.
- Need photos: Felix directed to booth, but no electricity (?) so no puotos taken.
- See lotus on table. Women selling lotus. Baskets on pole on shoulders.
- Very slow. Canada most expensive visa. Finally continue on bus.
- Change after border. Dusty, more run down, etc. Rice fields.
- After a large bridge, arrive Pakse. Bus stations always outside of town in Laos for some reason. Drove through town to bus station.
- Get bus info, seems like can make to Si Phan Don today.
- Walk to ANZ ATM. 2 Million: max. Get change at ANZ: smaller notes. Difficult to spend largest note: 50K, but lots of prices in that range!
- Tuktuk to town. Offer 10k each: this is the amt offered at station. I complain but we agree & go to get on truck. Due to poor English misunderstanding, driver stop us & offer 5k each.
- Stop at tourist centre. Driver wait. Hourly buses: 9-3:30.
- Pay driver 10k to drive us a few blocks to Internet. Driver stop to find translator: a common practise in Laos.
- After Internet, stop at a guesthouse restaurant for quick meal before go to bus. Noodles take 40 min. Looks like one woman work as receptionist, server, cook, etc. Realise won’t make the bus, so beer, then decide get the 100k room (AC). Shared bathroom: But generally clean.
- Shared balconey on main drag. Laos & communist flag.
- Walk around. See wat, monks, river. Lots of lottery stands (ask and find out). Strange.
- Nice place by river: Decks for drinking, eating. Surprisingly few foreigners here. Try Namkhong. Decide Beerlao is really the best SE Asian beer.
- People selling snacks came into restaurant. Women with dried squid & charcoal grill.
- Walk to large bridge. Many things funded by Japan, etc. Large hotel there. Didn’t get to see new market, as got sidecar tuktuk back due to Felix’s starting stomach problems. Even after looking for translator, didn’t figure out exactly where we were going. Laos ppl. not good at reading maps.
- Decide not book VIP bus, just get up & leave whenever the next day.
- Look for dinner, local restaurant district not as exciting as expected.
- Felix just have crepe due to problems. I get rice & Mekong fish (spicy). Came in a bag for takeaway. Surprisingly, one of the best meals I’ve had. Fish is very fatty. Beerlao dark from store across way. Felix on internet.
- Morning bathroom: straight on tracks. “Helped fertilise rice.”
- Wake up, arrive Ubon, tuktuk drivers waiting at train door.
- Walk around centre. Tourist centre not yet open. Try find toilet for Felix.
- Breakfast @ random noodle place. Language & pay confusion. Like the Thai way of saying thank you. Will miss. Old lady say thank you to us.
- Tourist info open, tell us bus is at 9am to Pakse. Else will be next day. we leave ~8:40, surprisingly difficult to find tuktuk. In hurry, get ripped off. Driver didn’t really respond to our ask price then offer, as if he’s bad at english, then at station he ask for 2x what we offered.
- Turns out bus leaves at 9:30, so made it in good time.
- Stop @ border. Stamp out. Long walk to immigration. Feels like walking through town.
- Didn’t get visa application forms from bus. Asked, get directed around, no form. Get form by standing in line. 10 min warning from bus. Hope is not true.
- Need photos: Felix directed to booth, but no electricity (?) so no puotos taken.
- See lotus on table. Women selling lotus. Baskets on pole on shoulders.
- Very slow. Canada most expensive visa. Finally continue on bus.
- Change after border. Dusty, more run down, etc. Rice fields.
- After a large bridge, arrive Pakse. Bus stations always outside of town in Laos for some reason. Drove through town to bus station.
- Get bus info, seems like can make to Si Phan Don today.
- Walk to ANZ ATM. 2 Million: max. Get change at ANZ: smaller notes. Difficult to spend largest note: 50K, but lots of prices in that range!
- Tuktuk to town. Offer 10k each: this is the amt offered at station. I complain but we agree & go to get on truck. Due to poor English misunderstanding, driver stop us & offer 5k each.
- Stop at tourist centre. Driver wait. Hourly buses: 9-3:30.
- Pay driver 10k to drive us a few blocks to Internet. Driver stop to find translator: a common practise in Laos.
- After Internet, stop at a guesthouse restaurant for quick meal before go to bus. Noodles take 40 min. Looks like one woman work as receptionist, server, cook, etc. Realise won’t make the bus, so beer, then decide get the 100k room (AC). Shared bathroom: But generally clean.
- Shared balconey on main drag. Laos & communist flag.
- Walk around. See wat, monks, river. Lots of lottery stands (ask and find out). Strange.
- Nice place by river: Decks for drinking, eating. Surprisingly few foreigners here. Try Namkhong. Decide Beerlao is really the best SE Asian beer.
- People selling snacks came into restaurant. Women with dried squid & charcoal grill.
- Walk to large bridge. Many things funded by Japan, etc. Large hotel there. Didn’t get to see new market, as got sidecar tuktuk back due to Felix’s starting stomach problems. Even after looking for translator, didn’t figure out exactly where we were going. Laos ppl. not good at reading maps.
- Decide not book VIP bus, just get up & leave whenever the next day.
- Look for dinner, local restaurant district not as exciting as expected.
- Felix just have crepe due to problems. I get rice & Mekong fish (spicy). Came in a bag for takeaway. Surprisingly, one of the best meals I’ve had. Fish is very fatty. Beerlao dark from store across way. Felix on internet.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 76
Day 76: (28 July 2011):
- Breakfast. Rice soup. Untasty iced cocoa. Felix have untasty iced coffee.
- Pick up train tickets. News that a princess died. Not sure if palace open, as there is event at palace.
- Store bags. Felix work problem. He deal with while I get post card. Say thank you, maybe used girl ending. Nice walk. See simple ice coffee cart. Ice coffee bag later. (Is this here?) A bit lost, then find ferry. Old fort & large bridge. Take to close to Wat Arun. Then small ferry 3B across river. <1min crossing. Longer board / wait.
- Boats full. Like a big bus. Blue vs. orange flag.
- Monks around. Wats much more well maintained than in Cambodia.
- Beautiful large wats. Buddha figures.
- Wat Arun very tall & impressive. Many wats covered in pieces of china/porcelin.
- Donate before. when in blessing: spray water. Some surprised & cover camera. If know there is admission, would not have donated.
- Steep steps up Wat Arun. Nice view of Bangkok. Wats & skyscrapers & river.
- Fish at ferry dock. Sell food to feed fish.
- Nearly lose wallet when fall out. Stopped by pole, else fall in river.
- Next: wat with humongous reclining Buddha. Beautiful paintings. Mother of pearl feet bottoms & pillow. 20B of ¼ B coins to drop in series of bowls. Considered getting to get a ¼ B coin. Maybe good thing I didn’t, so temple can keep its coins. Felix thought it was great way to get money. “Pay to get the experience of giving.”
- Beautiful fields of stupas.
- Buddha statues, one of Buddha under Bodhi tree.
- Gold leaf put on statues by worshippers?
- A few beautiful tall stupas covered in ceramics. Something about massage inscriptions?
- Some new tiles are very shiny. As some people told us in Cambodia, parts of palace & temples look like it belongs in Vegas.
- Coconuts for thirst throughout day. Smaller than in Cambodia.
- Ticket for Reclining Buddha includes other sites, but decide no time to visit, as quite far away.
- Decide walk to Palace. Large complex & wall. Have to hold coconut for long time. No rubbish bins this side.
- See entrance. Open & tourists. Place to get “decent” clothing for refundable deposit. We have shoes, long pants & collared shirts, as told people dress up for palace.
- 15 min left for the temple (close 3:15), but palace open until 4:15.
- Room of armed guards at entrance. Machine guns.
- Palace temple is the pictures seen frequently of Bangkok. Impressive. Cool statues. Mini Angkor Wat model. Bunch of guards touring, pics. Their machine guns piled up. Costume almost like British guards.
- Beautiful paintings guilded with gold. Wish knew story in pics. Same stories as ones in National Museum of Phnom Penh?
- Large shiny fancy main wat. Statues & huge “throne” with Emerald Buddha on it. Robes on Emerald Buddha. Size of temple & “throne” really validates its importance. Sign: no photo, no video, no pointing feet @ Buddha. People sit with tucked feet. I just sit cross legged.
- Turns out a spontaneous photo I took outside through the door captured an image of the Emerald Buddha.
- Go to palace. A French-looking bld. Some small blds. A large impressive Thai-style roof bld. Throne room. Throne with levels & the “umbrellas” above. Throne in picture has extra section than one in real life. Fans in room are gold-coloured.
- Apparently can visit more of palace, but parts closed due to event.
- Fancy cars arrive frequently, we told to move out of the way. Car with Indian flags & Indian-looking driver.
- As walk out palace, a few processions happen. Scouts (?) line road, & people stand around. Thought would wait for king. Looks like he’s coming.
- Long wait. A woman faint. Directors position people. Tell people where they cannot stand. No sitting, no shades, no umbrellas, etc. A woman pass out, could be heatstroke. No photos/videos.
- See people outside, & guards chase cars. Sometimes no cars (road closed).
- Some important people arrive & scouts all told to salute.
- Next time this happened, see cars then van with king. I quite excited.
- Stunned reaction from crowd, Felix: “can feel the reverence.” Murmurs, some bowing as King slowly drive by. French tourists ahead not sure if is King. Thai woman 30s-40s, very excited, hands to mouth, tell french tourists (gush): “oh, you saw the King, you’ll be lucky, you’ll be lucky! etc..” Head back after. Quite happy.
- Walk by amulet market & uni. Lots of tasty-looking street food. Piles of amulets. Rock, metal, etc. Cases & gem-looking things in cases.
- Minor confusion of how to cross road.
- Quick dinner at street stalls.
- Internet. Big problem with Felix’s work starts getting serious.
- Tuktuk to train less than expected. I wave one down on road.
- Sit on floor to wait. Small supermarket, get drink, etc. Consider beer.
- Corn drink.
- See on TV the King’s van turning into palace, which we saw earlier.
- Easy to find train. Find bunks. Beds made by person going around. Talk to Thai living in Syd.
- Chen bunks down, Felix & I sit in restaurant car drinking & chatting. Drunk Thai trying to talk to me. People can’t tell if I’m Thai or not. Shaky, other’s soup splash around. Difficult pour beer. make feel more drunk. Nice atmosphere.
- Brush teeth, etc. Sleep. Narrow, cozy behind curtain. Wish had lower bunk.
- Poor night of sleep, as opposite to expected. Too bumpy?
- Breakfast. Rice soup. Untasty iced cocoa. Felix have untasty iced coffee.
- Pick up train tickets. News that a princess died. Not sure if palace open, as there is event at palace.
- Store bags. Felix work problem. He deal with while I get post card. Say thank you, maybe used girl ending. Nice walk. See simple ice coffee cart. Ice coffee bag later. (Is this here?) A bit lost, then find ferry. Old fort & large bridge. Take to close to Wat Arun. Then small ferry 3B across river. <1min crossing. Longer board / wait.
- Boats full. Like a big bus. Blue vs. orange flag.
- Monks around. Wats much more well maintained than in Cambodia.
- Beautiful large wats. Buddha figures.
- Wat Arun very tall & impressive. Many wats covered in pieces of china/porcelin.
- Donate before. when in blessing: spray water. Some surprised & cover camera. If know there is admission, would not have donated.
- Steep steps up Wat Arun. Nice view of Bangkok. Wats & skyscrapers & river.
- Fish at ferry dock. Sell food to feed fish.
- Nearly lose wallet when fall out. Stopped by pole, else fall in river.
- Next: wat with humongous reclining Buddha. Beautiful paintings. Mother of pearl feet bottoms & pillow. 20B of ¼ B coins to drop in series of bowls. Considered getting to get a ¼ B coin. Maybe good thing I didn’t, so temple can keep its coins. Felix thought it was great way to get money. “Pay to get the experience of giving.”
- Beautiful fields of stupas.
- Buddha statues, one of Buddha under Bodhi tree.
- Gold leaf put on statues by worshippers?
- A few beautiful tall stupas covered in ceramics. Something about massage inscriptions?
- Some new tiles are very shiny. As some people told us in Cambodia, parts of palace & temples look like it belongs in Vegas.
- Coconuts for thirst throughout day. Smaller than in Cambodia.
- Ticket for Reclining Buddha includes other sites, but decide no time to visit, as quite far away.
- Decide walk to Palace. Large complex & wall. Have to hold coconut for long time. No rubbish bins this side.
- See entrance. Open & tourists. Place to get “decent” clothing for refundable deposit. We have shoes, long pants & collared shirts, as told people dress up for palace.
- 15 min left for the temple (close 3:15), but palace open until 4:15.
- Room of armed guards at entrance. Machine guns.
- Palace temple is the pictures seen frequently of Bangkok. Impressive. Cool statues. Mini Angkor Wat model. Bunch of guards touring, pics. Their machine guns piled up. Costume almost like British guards.
- Beautiful paintings guilded with gold. Wish knew story in pics. Same stories as ones in National Museum of Phnom Penh?
- Large shiny fancy main wat. Statues & huge “throne” with Emerald Buddha on it. Robes on Emerald Buddha. Size of temple & “throne” really validates its importance. Sign: no photo, no video, no pointing feet @ Buddha. People sit with tucked feet. I just sit cross legged.
- Turns out a spontaneous photo I took outside through the door captured an image of the Emerald Buddha.
- Go to palace. A French-looking bld. Some small blds. A large impressive Thai-style roof bld. Throne room. Throne with levels & the “umbrellas” above. Throne in picture has extra section than one in real life. Fans in room are gold-coloured.
- Apparently can visit more of palace, but parts closed due to event.
- Fancy cars arrive frequently, we told to move out of the way. Car with Indian flags & Indian-looking driver.
- As walk out palace, a few processions happen. Scouts (?) line road, & people stand around. Thought would wait for king. Looks like he’s coming.
- Long wait. A woman faint. Directors position people. Tell people where they cannot stand. No sitting, no shades, no umbrellas, etc. A woman pass out, could be heatstroke. No photos/videos.
- See people outside, & guards chase cars. Sometimes no cars (road closed).
- Some important people arrive & scouts all told to salute.
- Next time this happened, see cars then van with king. I quite excited.
- Stunned reaction from crowd, Felix: “can feel the reverence.” Murmurs, some bowing as King slowly drive by. French tourists ahead not sure if is King. Thai woman 30s-40s, very excited, hands to mouth, tell french tourists (gush): “oh, you saw the King, you’ll be lucky, you’ll be lucky! etc..” Head back after. Quite happy.
- Walk by amulet market & uni. Lots of tasty-looking street food. Piles of amulets. Rock, metal, etc. Cases & gem-looking things in cases.
- Minor confusion of how to cross road.
- Quick dinner at street stalls.
- Internet. Big problem with Felix’s work starts getting serious.
- Tuktuk to train less than expected. I wave one down on road.
- Sit on floor to wait. Small supermarket, get drink, etc. Consider beer.
- Corn drink.
- See on TV the King’s van turning into palace, which we saw earlier.
- Easy to find train. Find bunks. Beds made by person going around. Talk to Thai living in Syd.
- Chen bunks down, Felix & I sit in restaurant car drinking & chatting. Drunk Thai trying to talk to me. People can’t tell if I’m Thai or not. Shaky, other’s soup splash around. Difficult pour beer. make feel more drunk. Nice atmosphere.
- Brush teeth, etc. Sleep. Narrow, cozy behind curtain. Wish had lower bunk.
- Poor night of sleep, as opposite to expected. Too bumpy?
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 75
Day 75: (27 July 2011):
- Picked up by bus with only reclining seats. “only one setting: relax” according to one backpacker.
- Wait at another hostel, eventually put into 2 buses by a stressed person directing.
- A few stops. Rice crisp cake.
- Stop at border. Get luggage. Stamp out. Large complex with casinos between. Stamp in at Thailand. All get stickers, when enough stickers together, led to small minibus. Stop close at a restaurant. 30 min lunch. Pad Thai: 50 Bhat, $1 = 28B at restaurant. Not accept Felix’s $5 bill. Story about counterfeit stacks for sale.
- Minibus with ridiculously many lights.
- Huge change after border. Good roads. More cars & big vehicles, less scooters & more ordered. Buildings & grounds neater. Much faster.
- Stop, then in Bangkok. Tall blds, look like developed city with 3rd world slum pockets.
- Drop by Khaosan Rd. Ladies with wood frogs.
- Khaosan Rd: many tourists. Street food. Shop stalls. Busy. Get cash.
- American (kind of crazy) lead us to a close guesthouse on a quieter street with small bars & restaurants. Cautious of him.
- OK guesthouse, 400B for room. American ask to use our shower, etc.
- Eat at a street stall. 30B green curry for me.
- Book train ticket. Sold out lower bunk. 850B vs 900B.
- Walk around Khaosan Rd. Clubs, bars. Loud music. Section where offered girls. The Hilarious tuktuk: dressed up & playing “Move Bitch Get out the way.”
- Hang out at a small bar out of a moded truck. Friend of American. Give free rice wine shot when interested to try it. Lots of crazy stories, not sure if is true. Stories of people fighting Khmer Rouge. Heroin addiction. Volunteer at orphanage is current job. Rich parents / friends. Know the tattoo artist I met in Samoa. Cigarette ash & tape recorder tattoo in prison. Story of him playing with Red Hot Chilli Peppers? Story of him having sex with the singer’s wife & vice versa. Etc. Drug dealer for stars, etc.
- He leave for airport @ 10:30 after shower in our room. Mistake giving him my e-mail? Update: haven’t heard from him yet.
- Walk around Kharsan road ~11-11:30, midnight. Not much change. Busy. Grab pad thai as a snack. Realise should have added condiments later.
- The sketchy far side of the road.
- Sleep. A bit strange bathroom is a wall with gap at top.
- Steep uneven steps. Very loud bird.
- Picked up by bus with only reclining seats. “only one setting: relax” according to one backpacker.
- Wait at another hostel, eventually put into 2 buses by a stressed person directing.
- A few stops. Rice crisp cake.
- Stop at border. Get luggage. Stamp out. Large complex with casinos between. Stamp in at Thailand. All get stickers, when enough stickers together, led to small minibus. Stop close at a restaurant. 30 min lunch. Pad Thai: 50 Bhat, $1 = 28B at restaurant. Not accept Felix’s $5 bill. Story about counterfeit stacks for sale.
- Minibus with ridiculously many lights.
- Huge change after border. Good roads. More cars & big vehicles, less scooters & more ordered. Buildings & grounds neater. Much faster.
- Stop, then in Bangkok. Tall blds, look like developed city with 3rd world slum pockets.
- Drop by Khaosan Rd. Ladies with wood frogs.
- Khaosan Rd: many tourists. Street food. Shop stalls. Busy. Get cash.
- American (kind of crazy) lead us to a close guesthouse on a quieter street with small bars & restaurants. Cautious of him.
- OK guesthouse, 400B for room. American ask to use our shower, etc.
- Eat at a street stall. 30B green curry for me.
- Book train ticket. Sold out lower bunk. 850B vs 900B.
- Walk around Khaosan Rd. Clubs, bars. Loud music. Section where offered girls. The Hilarious tuktuk: dressed up & playing “Move Bitch Get out the way.”
- Hang out at a small bar out of a moded truck. Friend of American. Give free rice wine shot when interested to try it. Lots of crazy stories, not sure if is true. Stories of people fighting Khmer Rouge. Heroin addiction. Volunteer at orphanage is current job. Rich parents / friends. Know the tattoo artist I met in Samoa. Cigarette ash & tape recorder tattoo in prison. Story of him playing with Red Hot Chilli Peppers? Story of him having sex with the singer’s wife & vice versa. Etc. Drug dealer for stars, etc.
- He leave for airport @ 10:30 after shower in our room. Mistake giving him my e-mail? Update: haven’t heard from him yet.
- Walk around Kharsan road ~11-11:30, midnight. Not much change. Busy. Grab pad thai as a snack. Realise should have added condiments later.
- The sketchy far side of the road.
- Sleep. A bit strange bathroom is a wall with gap at top.
- Steep uneven steps. Very loud bird.
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 74
Day 74: (26 July 2011):
- Wake up before 5am for sunrise.
- Lots of sellers give us advice then tell us go to their stall for breakfast.
- Cloudy, so decide not do sunrise at the pond location for view of wat & sun reflection. Outside scaffolding, so prob. not good view anyway.
- Explore empty dark temple until brighter & people show up. Atmospheric. Some fog patches around the vegetation outside temple.
- After negotiate & for extra charge, we got driver to take us to an interesting large temple we saw yesterday. Driver seemed net too happy, even though we think we paid more than fair price.
- Temple was not the one we expected, but is on map, so decide to check out. On hill. Can’t see temple from bottom.
- Surprisingly long walk up. See why driver is not convinced we’ll only take 30 min. “Safe way” “Danger way” (no entry) & “Elephant way” -> $20 w/ elephant.
- Pretty impressive wall & tiered temple at top. This is the temple for sunset?
- View of jungle, hills & fog patches. Rice paddies & Angkor Wat. Must be very impressive with city & hundreds of years ago. See baray.
- Back to hotel for nap. Arrange bus to Bangkok as Felix didn’t want to risk border. Only $8.
- Get tuktuk for rest of the day for $10. Ask him for suggestion in addition to Rulous group. Suggested floating village & forest.
- Lots of funny English in SE Asia. “Hump a head” sign.
- Long drive past temples. Find out boat price $20 each + $2 admission. No price signs around, so decide pay the amount. Wonder if driver gets commission.
- Long, very bumpy dirt track. “Tuktuk off roading.”
- Busy boat area. Tour buses. Got boat to ourselves.
- First, some houseboats & platforms tied to oil drums. Then the houses on tall stilts.
- Try dock at temple, but construction. Boats (some loaded with dirt) in way.
- Dock lower down. Street between 2 rows of houses. Metres under water in wet season floods, according to driver, who is from the village.
- Eat at restaurant. Someone’s house, as with many restaurants in Laos. See below through floorboard gaps. Surprisingly few & thin support beams. Forest behind house. Toilet pipes go straight into river? Swim & fish in river.
- Driver eat & talk. $1/day rent in Siem Reap. $4 petrol rt trip. Didn’t take offer of me pay for lunch.
- Big bowl of curry.
- Pigs & storage on lower levels, move to top in floods. Some old machinery chugging, remind me of steam punk anime.
- Visit temple. People sell books & pencils for children. Teacher was working on temple. Felix ask validating Q’s. Ask for & talk to teacher. Buy: $5/$4 for me since I only have $4. Then Felix give books to kids. I give pencil. Monk angry at all for not supporting temple. Felix ask teacher to show us classroom after. Long time for lunch to come.
- Rain. Drum with “do not hit” on it.
- Kids run towards a Korean group, who brought snacks for kids.
- Continue on boat to floating forest centre, where we can rent a canoe for $8. Driver advise we do not have time.
- Cool flooded forest. Calm. People, kids, villagers paddle through. Rain.
- Boat get to lake. Water as far as can see. Tea(with milk)-coloured brown. Waves & splashes look velvety. Large clouds. Cruise a bit & head back due to time constraints. “Battle” with larger boat on way back.
- Hectic dock. Ride back even worse due to rain & wet mud.
- 1st temple of Rulous: ~5min. Very small. A few ruined red/brown brick temples. Sell scarf: “I don’t need one.” “You don’t need one, you need two!” Rulous is older complex before Angkor.
- 2nd: bigger, series of small temples, no tiers. Text carvings. Nice forest setting & calm.
- 3rd: Bigger. Monastery beside. Aggressive child beggars. Tiers, central tall temple. Series of nice but ruined statues. Large complex with multiple blds. Take a quick look at chanting monks in monastery when leaving.
- Pay driver confusion. Decide tip. Felix: $12. Me: $ & riel, = $7. Almost 2x agreed price.
- Quick stop @ market. Tintin shirt (was that today?).
- Dinner at a place Mick Jager likes according to LP. Curry & dish with prahoc.
- Night market. Lots of Tintin posters. The Tintin amputee poster. Terrible but funny. Nice market: pretty much all souveniers.
- Wake up before 5am for sunrise.
- Lots of sellers give us advice then tell us go to their stall for breakfast.
- Cloudy, so decide not do sunrise at the pond location for view of wat & sun reflection. Outside scaffolding, so prob. not good view anyway.
- Explore empty dark temple until brighter & people show up. Atmospheric. Some fog patches around the vegetation outside temple.
- After negotiate & for extra charge, we got driver to take us to an interesting large temple we saw yesterday. Driver seemed net too happy, even though we think we paid more than fair price.
- Temple was not the one we expected, but is on map, so decide to check out. On hill. Can’t see temple from bottom.
- Surprisingly long walk up. See why driver is not convinced we’ll only take 30 min. “Safe way” “Danger way” (no entry) & “Elephant way” -> $20 w/ elephant.
- Pretty impressive wall & tiered temple at top. This is the temple for sunset?
- View of jungle, hills & fog patches. Rice paddies & Angkor Wat. Must be very impressive with city & hundreds of years ago. See baray.
- Back to hotel for nap. Arrange bus to Bangkok as Felix didn’t want to risk border. Only $8.
- Get tuktuk for rest of the day for $10. Ask him for suggestion in addition to Rulous group. Suggested floating village & forest.
- Lots of funny English in SE Asia. “Hump a head” sign.
- Long drive past temples. Find out boat price $20 each + $2 admission. No price signs around, so decide pay the amount. Wonder if driver gets commission.
- Long, very bumpy dirt track. “Tuktuk off roading.”
- Busy boat area. Tour buses. Got boat to ourselves.
- First, some houseboats & platforms tied to oil drums. Then the houses on tall stilts.
- Try dock at temple, but construction. Boats (some loaded with dirt) in way.
- Dock lower down. Street between 2 rows of houses. Metres under water in wet season floods, according to driver, who is from the village.
- Eat at restaurant. Someone’s house, as with many restaurants in Laos. See below through floorboard gaps. Surprisingly few & thin support beams. Forest behind house. Toilet pipes go straight into river? Swim & fish in river.
- Driver eat & talk. $1/day rent in Siem Reap. $4 petrol rt trip. Didn’t take offer of me pay for lunch.
- Big bowl of curry.
- Pigs & storage on lower levels, move to top in floods. Some old machinery chugging, remind me of steam punk anime.
- Visit temple. People sell books & pencils for children. Teacher was working on temple. Felix ask validating Q’s. Ask for & talk to teacher. Buy: $5/$4 for me since I only have $4. Then Felix give books to kids. I give pencil. Monk angry at all for not supporting temple. Felix ask teacher to show us classroom after. Long time for lunch to come.
- Rain. Drum with “do not hit” on it.
- Kids run towards a Korean group, who brought snacks for kids.
- Continue on boat to floating forest centre, where we can rent a canoe for $8. Driver advise we do not have time.
- Cool flooded forest. Calm. People, kids, villagers paddle through. Rain.
- Boat get to lake. Water as far as can see. Tea(with milk)-coloured brown. Waves & splashes look velvety. Large clouds. Cruise a bit & head back due to time constraints. “Battle” with larger boat on way back.
- Hectic dock. Ride back even worse due to rain & wet mud.
- 1st temple of Rulous: ~5min. Very small. A few ruined red/brown brick temples. Sell scarf: “I don’t need one.” “You don’t need one, you need two!” Rulous is older complex before Angkor.
- 2nd: bigger, series of small temples, no tiers. Text carvings. Nice forest setting & calm.
- 3rd: Bigger. Monastery beside. Aggressive child beggars. Tiers, central tall temple. Series of nice but ruined statues. Large complex with multiple blds. Take a quick look at chanting monks in monastery when leaving.
- Pay driver confusion. Decide tip. Felix: $12. Me: $ & riel, = $7. Almost 2x agreed price.
- Quick stop @ market. Tintin shirt (was that today?).
- Dinner at a place Mick Jager likes according to LP. Curry & dish with prahoc.
- Night market. Lots of Tintin posters. The Tintin amputee poster. Terrible but funny. Nice market: pretty much all souveniers.
Monday, July 25, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 73
Day 73: (25 July 2011):
- Get tuktuk to take us on large circuit for $12. Include a drive out to a temple too. Driver took us there without us even having to ask.
- See the IV on scooter thing again. Passed a hospital crossing at some point.
- Plan to start where the small circuit splits with bigger one.
- Stop at a gate. Explore the two tiny chambres of gate. Bats.
- 1st temple: the sister temple to Ta Prom. Felix hire guide for $6.
- Some big trees on temple. Cool Garuda carving on gate. Apsara carvings. Some in good condition. Echo room. Explore around ruins for a bit.
- Next step: Small temple surrounded by pool. Small (kind of deep) causeway to access. Diagram shown nice geometric pools before. Always good symmetry at temples. Light rain. Small shrines around pool (4).
- Get dragged in for a quick snack / lunch at the ubiquitous markets around temples. Prices very high: $5-6, so just share a fried rice.
- Downpour. Wait out most of the rain, decide start again when rain a bit lighter as not know when rain will stop.
- Cats climb around beams & cat platforms overhead. Must be fun.
- Rain tarps down in tuktuk. Nice drive down forested road in lessening rain.
- Explore another small temple to climb around. Kids playing in rain.
- Arrive at a tiered temple with the reddish poreous rock. Similar to a temple seen day before. Seems to be a popular temple style. See a few like this, others are all very different.
- Elephant statues. Small temples at top. lots of small holes, which we were told are for decorations (gold, gems, etc) at last temple with guide.
- Nice drive through some traditional-looking villages to the outlier temple. Liked the wood raised houses.
- Temple with very cool architecture. Remind me of a spider. Vertical-looking. Lots of these temples seem to have features that would be filled with water. Forest sounds. One of my favourite places.
- Next: another tiered temple with temples on top & reddish rock. Fields around, kids climb on temples for play. Water buffalo.
- Decide revisit Ta Prom instead of another adjascent walled temple. Impressed at length of wall. Cycled by wall last night too.
- Quick tour, as closing soon. Tree rots. Buddha & incense rifting up. Guard ask / follow us out when close. Crocodile root cool. Didn’t see Tomb Raider tree. Some renovation: blocked off? “I say: add roller coasters & charge more.”
- Dinner with BBQ snake. “Python” according to waitress. Meat surprisingly tough, but good.
- Get tuktuk to take us on large circuit for $12. Include a drive out to a temple too. Driver took us there without us even having to ask.
- See the IV on scooter thing again. Passed a hospital crossing at some point.
- Plan to start where the small circuit splits with bigger one.
- Stop at a gate. Explore the two tiny chambres of gate. Bats.
- 1st temple: the sister temple to Ta Prom. Felix hire guide for $6.
- Some big trees on temple. Cool Garuda carving on gate. Apsara carvings. Some in good condition. Echo room. Explore around ruins for a bit.
- Next step: Small temple surrounded by pool. Small (kind of deep) causeway to access. Diagram shown nice geometric pools before. Always good symmetry at temples. Light rain. Small shrines around pool (4).
- Get dragged in for a quick snack / lunch at the ubiquitous markets around temples. Prices very high: $5-6, so just share a fried rice.
- Downpour. Wait out most of the rain, decide start again when rain a bit lighter as not know when rain will stop.
- Cats climb around beams & cat platforms overhead. Must be fun.
- Rain tarps down in tuktuk. Nice drive down forested road in lessening rain.
- Explore another small temple to climb around. Kids playing in rain.
- Arrive at a tiered temple with the reddish poreous rock. Similar to a temple seen day before. Seems to be a popular temple style. See a few like this, others are all very different.
- Elephant statues. Small temples at top. lots of small holes, which we were told are for decorations (gold, gems, etc) at last temple with guide.
- Nice drive through some traditional-looking villages to the outlier temple. Liked the wood raised houses.
- Temple with very cool architecture. Remind me of a spider. Vertical-looking. Lots of these temples seem to have features that would be filled with water. Forest sounds. One of my favourite places.
- Next: another tiered temple with temples on top & reddish rock. Fields around, kids climb on temples for play. Water buffalo.
- Decide revisit Ta Prom instead of another adjascent walled temple. Impressed at length of wall. Cycled by wall last night too.
- Quick tour, as closing soon. Tree rots. Buddha & incense rifting up. Guard ask / follow us out when close. Crocodile root cool. Didn’t see Tomb Raider tree. Some renovation: blocked off? “I say: add roller coasters & charge more.”
- Dinner with BBQ snake. “Python” according to waitress. Meat surprisingly tough, but good.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 72
Day 72: (24 July 2011):
- Breakfast at a very friendly place. Fried noodles for me. Order problems.
- Rent bike; $2 for gears, didn’t go with $1 no gears.
- Town was a bit hectic, good after out of town. Wide shoulders good. Fits a tuktuk.
- 3 day ticket (we get consecutive, but same price as 3 day non-consec). Photo.
- Nice tree-lined straight road. Old structures past moat. First glimpse.
- Photos before main entrance. Kids swimming.
- Park bike. Grass hat offered for $5, I didn’t really want. In end, got hat + water for 8000 Riel. Girls say “you got for very cheap,” realise this is what they say everytime to try get you feel bad to buy more.
- Walk in: bad luck, scaffolding. Central entrance to temple closed.
- Explore front section & blds. (Library?).
- Beautiful & detailed carvings around outside. Intricate.
- Busy on main sections, but surprisingly empty on bit off the main track.
- Climb around & explore a temple & walls just outside the centre.
- Go up the central tower. Nice views all around.
- Bats throughout & other temples too. Smelly in some places.
- Explore a bit more. View all of the bas-reliefs around wall.
- Touted at by store section. Magnets: “$3, but $2 for you.” Thought I’d pay a bit more to support, turns out can get for 50c. Felix buy painting: when say will come back: “There are 40 temples, you no come back!” Negotiating: “$5...$10.” Then say don’t remember say $5. Trick with asking for more riel. Agree $12, got $14. Felix: “it’s OK.” woman: “OK for you, you get good deal. Bad deal for me!”
- Guilted into buying 6000r water. “We watched your bike.” “You buy from them, what about me?” Noticed is true after someone pointed out the sellers all have very whiney voices.
- Continue small circuit after 3 hrs at Angkor Wat.
- 1st time passing the city gate is very impressive. Beings pulling a snake or naga (most of the snakes are destroyed). Faces on gate top. Elephants & trunks decoration. Moss. Wall. Bridge.
- Ice cream cart, but didn’t stop.
- Lose hat a few times.
- Felix use umbrella. Prob. better & more shade.
- Bayon. Afraid not impressive after Angkor Wat (as mentioned in LP), but fears unfounded. Look like pile of rubble from afar, but very impressive up close. Narrow passages. Found face on LP cover & money. Forest of mounds with faces on upper tier.
- All these places remind me of Diablo II & other media.
- Continue north. The city. Row of towers that no one visits as there is too much stuff. Realise will not finish small circuit today.
- Explore the city. Cool platform. Wall of elephants & Garuda.
- Central temple. “Climb at own risk” sign turns out to mean no climbing. Go up official entrance we found later. Nice, but nothing too exciting.
- Walk to the big temple. Impressive. Closed & can’t go up. Big wall with horizontal half cylinder ridges. Ruins in forest around area.
- Long raised walkway in front on many columns. Photo as tipped by LP.
- Start to get “tempelled out.” A commonly-heard expression here.
- Exit city & arrive to where there are 2 temples opposite across road.
- Look for coconut. Seller effectively stopped us by standing in way.
- The 2 girls show up. Bike opposite dir, skip Angkor: save for later.
- Explore the 2 temples. Kids playing games. Someone try give us lit incense. Eat pineapple. Split & continue on way.
- Pass by some old temple ruins with trees growing on it.
- Stop at a cool-looking temple. Girls told us about it when we met.
- Steep steps up temple. Jungle view at top. Series of small temples at top.
- Sit & watch rain clouds. When think OK, go to bikes. Rain just when reach bikes, so go back to temple for shelter. Should have stayed on an upper level, although may be slippery now.
- Start on bikes when rain became a bit lighter.
- Heavy rain on way. We really got the weather wrong. Short wait under a tree, but already wet & realise rain will prob. not stop.
- Arrive at the Tomb Raider temple in pouring rain. Walk a bit, I realise we had umbrellas to use.
- Walk around. Dark. A few tourists there. Kids selling cheap rain ponchos. Try avoid puddles, parts closed, think strayed into a few archealogical sites.
- Felix lose umbrella to kids when taking a video. Start of Felix temple video trend. I see kids with umbrella.
- Felix try go find kids. He get lost. Eventually a guard showed him out. Meanwhile, I use tripod & umbrella to take a few photos. Wait for Felix in a dark hall, some dripping water. Rain outside window. Violet lightning & soft thunder rumbles. Buddha statue. Kind of creepy. Eventually decide go find Felix. Walk in dark forest alone (large path, though). Violet flashes. Siren-sounding things close, not sure what it is. Happy to see felix at gate. Creepy inside.
- Bike back in rain. Siren-sounding things. Felix: “smoke monster from Lost.”
- Unsure where we biking. Ask directions a few times. Bike through very hectic town. No traffic rules. People on wrong side of road. Happy to arrive back. Even soaked on bikes, touts work on us as we pass restaurants.
- Change. I wash shorts since already wet. Dinner. Less rain. I use umbrella, Felix use my raincoat. Felix buy cheap umbrella at store.
- Offered girls by tuktuk drivers 3x in 5 min on Pub street.
- Ate at Amok restaurant. Fancy. Pumpkin soup in shot glasses as welcome. Confusing. Amok taster. Cute mini-amoks. Each with a flap on toothpick with picture of type of meat/fish/vegetable. Lac lac as well. Continue trend of eating at more expensive places.
- Breakfast at a very friendly place. Fried noodles for me. Order problems.
- Rent bike; $2 for gears, didn’t go with $1 no gears.
- Town was a bit hectic, good after out of town. Wide shoulders good. Fits a tuktuk.
- 3 day ticket (we get consecutive, but same price as 3 day non-consec). Photo.
- Nice tree-lined straight road. Old structures past moat. First glimpse.
- Photos before main entrance. Kids swimming.
- Park bike. Grass hat offered for $5, I didn’t really want. In end, got hat + water for 8000 Riel. Girls say “you got for very cheap,” realise this is what they say everytime to try get you feel bad to buy more.
- Walk in: bad luck, scaffolding. Central entrance to temple closed.
- Explore front section & blds. (Library?).
- Beautiful & detailed carvings around outside. Intricate.
- Busy on main sections, but surprisingly empty on bit off the main track.
- Climb around & explore a temple & walls just outside the centre.
- Go up the central tower. Nice views all around.
- Bats throughout & other temples too. Smelly in some places.
- Explore a bit more. View all of the bas-reliefs around wall.
- Touted at by store section. Magnets: “$3, but $2 for you.” Thought I’d pay a bit more to support, turns out can get for 50c. Felix buy painting: when say will come back: “There are 40 temples, you no come back!” Negotiating: “$5...$10.” Then say don’t remember say $5. Trick with asking for more riel. Agree $12, got $14. Felix: “it’s OK.” woman: “OK for you, you get good deal. Bad deal for me!”
- Guilted into buying 6000r water. “We watched your bike.” “You buy from them, what about me?” Noticed is true after someone pointed out the sellers all have very whiney voices.
- Continue small circuit after 3 hrs at Angkor Wat.
- 1st time passing the city gate is very impressive. Beings pulling a snake or naga (most of the snakes are destroyed). Faces on gate top. Elephants & trunks decoration. Moss. Wall. Bridge.
- Ice cream cart, but didn’t stop.
- Lose hat a few times.
- Felix use umbrella. Prob. better & more shade.
- Bayon. Afraid not impressive after Angkor Wat (as mentioned in LP), but fears unfounded. Look like pile of rubble from afar, but very impressive up close. Narrow passages. Found face on LP cover & money. Forest of mounds with faces on upper tier.
- All these places remind me of Diablo II & other media.
- Continue north. The city. Row of towers that no one visits as there is too much stuff. Realise will not finish small circuit today.
- Explore the city. Cool platform. Wall of elephants & Garuda.
- Central temple. “Climb at own risk” sign turns out to mean no climbing. Go up official entrance we found later. Nice, but nothing too exciting.
- Walk to the big temple. Impressive. Closed & can’t go up. Big wall with horizontal half cylinder ridges. Ruins in forest around area.
- Long raised walkway in front on many columns. Photo as tipped by LP.
- Start to get “tempelled out.” A commonly-heard expression here.
- Exit city & arrive to where there are 2 temples opposite across road.
- Look for coconut. Seller effectively stopped us by standing in way.
- The 2 girls show up. Bike opposite dir, skip Angkor: save for later.
- Explore the 2 temples. Kids playing games. Someone try give us lit incense. Eat pineapple. Split & continue on way.
- Pass by some old temple ruins with trees growing on it.
- Stop at a cool-looking temple. Girls told us about it when we met.
- Steep steps up temple. Jungle view at top. Series of small temples at top.
- Sit & watch rain clouds. When think OK, go to bikes. Rain just when reach bikes, so go back to temple for shelter. Should have stayed on an upper level, although may be slippery now.
- Start on bikes when rain became a bit lighter.
- Heavy rain on way. We really got the weather wrong. Short wait under a tree, but already wet & realise rain will prob. not stop.
- Arrive at the Tomb Raider temple in pouring rain. Walk a bit, I realise we had umbrellas to use.
- Walk around. Dark. A few tourists there. Kids selling cheap rain ponchos. Try avoid puddles, parts closed, think strayed into a few archealogical sites.
- Felix lose umbrella to kids when taking a video. Start of Felix temple video trend. I see kids with umbrella.
- Felix try go find kids. He get lost. Eventually a guard showed him out. Meanwhile, I use tripod & umbrella to take a few photos. Wait for Felix in a dark hall, some dripping water. Rain outside window. Violet lightning & soft thunder rumbles. Buddha statue. Kind of creepy. Eventually decide go find Felix. Walk in dark forest alone (large path, though). Violet flashes. Siren-sounding things close, not sure what it is. Happy to see felix at gate. Creepy inside.
- Bike back in rain. Siren-sounding things. Felix: “smoke monster from Lost.”
- Unsure where we biking. Ask directions a few times. Bike through very hectic town. No traffic rules. People on wrong side of road. Happy to arrive back. Even soaked on bikes, touts work on us as we pass restaurants.
- Change. I wash shorts since already wet. Dinner. Less rain. I use umbrella, Felix use my raincoat. Felix buy cheap umbrella at store.
- Offered girls by tuktuk drivers 3x in 5 min on Pub street.
- Ate at Amok restaurant. Fancy. Pumpkin soup in shot glasses as welcome. Confusing. Amok taster. Cute mini-amoks. Each with a flap on toothpick with picture of type of meat/fish/vegetable. Lac lac as well. Continue trend of eating at more expensive places.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 71
Day 71: (23 July 2011):
- $10/person charge for airport pick-up. Ripoff.
- Got to Kate’s hostel ~7:30. Both 8 & 9 am buses sold out. After lots of back-forth & some ticket cancellations, we decide all get a minibus together.
- Tuktuks won’t take us to market together, so walk to central market.
- Kate negotiate for us. Strange sight as ~10 backpackers & ~10 locals stand & negotiate for us. We just follow Kate. Agreed on $3 each.
- Felix buy food as wait on bus.
- Fast minibus. Stop @ bakery, get breakfast & steamed bun.
- ~15 ppl in minibus, luggage hanging out back, trunk held closed with rope.
- Play cards. Guy by Felix motion sick, throw up outside & cover car door. Music & clapping. White girl dancing when we stop. Fun ride, when people leave, say bye.
- More luggage & people get on! 20 in van. Nice scenery: rice paddies, traditional village raised houses.
- Felix buy fried crickets at a stop. Kind of a blue-cheese taste. Not a fan.
- After first thinking we want to get dropped off at start of a park/trail, we direct driver to drop us in the village. Short walk to silk farm.
- American & Khmer wife’s project. Had a NGO project, but shut down when no money: say this is the problem with lots of orgs. He incentivises quality for the well-paid women weavers, many of whom are disabled from mines. Say monthly wage in PP for textile industry is $40.
- Show us entire silk process. Demo silkworm cage: nets, water for ants, etc. Golden Cambodian silk. Not economically feasable. Most of his silk imported from China. Try some silk worm pupae of some people’s request.
- Giant butterflies: Discovered later may actually be moths.
- Delicious home-cooked meal. $3 instead of $6.
- Tuktuk to Kampong Thom(?). Lots of statue makers in an area. Burning motorbike truck. Lots of flames & hot. Afraid will explode as pass it.
- Buy ticket for $4 at stall. Cool coconut for thirst. Sit & wait. ppl. vacate chairs when we say yes, we want to sit.
- Bus is like a “carrier” <- Felix’s words. Passengers on top, low bottom section for bags. also have some cargo & motorbikes being carried.
- Flooded with touts as get off bus. $1 each for Tuktuk to Garden Village (rec’ed by some people). Full tuktuk, pile of bags. Felix say concerned will flip over. Very bumpy mud sections. Small light, quite cozy. Pass homes & small stores.
- Get $10 deluxe room w/ hot water. Hear from girls the dorms are not good, some just beds outside. Nice room. As with most places, no shower curtain. Muddy streets & construction. Centre of town: looks fancy, & lots of white people.
- Have dinner at street stalls. Walked by night market. Lots of fish massage places. Pub street fancy. Lots of foreigners. Lots selling massage. $3/hr. Never seen so cheap.
- Felix start buying banana & chocolate crepes. Good technique while making them.
- Fruit lady (who I was eventually dissappointed by).
- Closed market. Use to wait out rain.
- Start every night buy some new beers to try.
- Sit & drink & eat fruit at roof bar & hostel. (Sat one floor below at covered bar due to rain). Mexican wrestling on TV.
- Lots of frog sounds as go to bed. Some roosters during night too.
- $10/person charge for airport pick-up. Ripoff.
- Got to Kate’s hostel ~7:30. Both 8 & 9 am buses sold out. After lots of back-forth & some ticket cancellations, we decide all get a minibus together.
- Tuktuks won’t take us to market together, so walk to central market.
- Kate negotiate for us. Strange sight as ~10 backpackers & ~10 locals stand & negotiate for us. We just follow Kate. Agreed on $3 each.
- Felix buy food as wait on bus.
- Fast minibus. Stop @ bakery, get breakfast & steamed bun.
- ~15 ppl in minibus, luggage hanging out back, trunk held closed with rope.
- Play cards. Guy by Felix motion sick, throw up outside & cover car door. Music & clapping. White girl dancing when we stop. Fun ride, when people leave, say bye.
- More luggage & people get on! 20 in van. Nice scenery: rice paddies, traditional village raised houses.
- Felix buy fried crickets at a stop. Kind of a blue-cheese taste. Not a fan.
- After first thinking we want to get dropped off at start of a park/trail, we direct driver to drop us in the village. Short walk to silk farm.
- American & Khmer wife’s project. Had a NGO project, but shut down when no money: say this is the problem with lots of orgs. He incentivises quality for the well-paid women weavers, many of whom are disabled from mines. Say monthly wage in PP for textile industry is $40.
- Show us entire silk process. Demo silkworm cage: nets, water for ants, etc. Golden Cambodian silk. Not economically feasable. Most of his silk imported from China. Try some silk worm pupae of some people’s request.
- Giant butterflies: Discovered later may actually be moths.
- Delicious home-cooked meal. $3 instead of $6.
- Tuktuk to Kampong Thom(?). Lots of statue makers in an area. Burning motorbike truck. Lots of flames & hot. Afraid will explode as pass it.
- Buy ticket for $4 at stall. Cool coconut for thirst. Sit & wait. ppl. vacate chairs when we say yes, we want to sit.
- Bus is like a “carrier” <- Felix’s words. Passengers on top, low bottom section for bags. also have some cargo & motorbikes being carried.
- Flooded with touts as get off bus. $1 each for Tuktuk to Garden Village (rec’ed by some people). Full tuktuk, pile of bags. Felix say concerned will flip over. Very bumpy mud sections. Small light, quite cozy. Pass homes & small stores.
- Get $10 deluxe room w/ hot water. Hear from girls the dorms are not good, some just beds outside. Nice room. As with most places, no shower curtain. Muddy streets & construction. Centre of town: looks fancy, & lots of white people.
- Have dinner at street stalls. Walked by night market. Lots of fish massage places. Pub street fancy. Lots of foreigners. Lots selling massage. $3/hr. Never seen so cheap.
- Felix start buying banana & chocolate crepes. Good technique while making them.
- Fruit lady (who I was eventually dissappointed by).
- Closed market. Use to wait out rain.
- Start every night buy some new beers to try.
- Sit & drink & eat fruit at roof bar & hostel. (Sat one floor below at covered bar due to rain). Mexican wrestling on TV.
- Lots of frog sounds as go to bed. Some roosters during night too.
Friday, July 22, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 70
Day 70: (22 July 2011):
- Tuktuk to central market due to Felix misunderstanding 100 R vs. $1. Not hear correctly. 1st tuktuk ride.
- Bowl of noodles at market. Get the rice cake with garlic chives. Bags of sauce (very full) that we didn’t really use.
- Walk to the temple. Wat Phnom? Avoid paying entrance gates. Elephant that Felix took photo with the day before. Temple OK, nothing too exciting. On hill.
- Walk to palace, stop by a temple on way, as not sure what is palace. Make small donation. Nice official-looking temple behind wall.
- Followed by tuktuk drivers trying to convince us to use them with variety of tricks.
- National museum. Very good architecture. No photos inside. Nice collection of artefacts, better than Malaysian museums. Lots of people pass out the small fragrant flowers for some Buddhist statues & ask for money. Nice generally chronological organisation. Paintings & story explanations. See lots of similar paintings in future. Same story?
- Accosted by charismatic tuktuk driver translating our iced coffee order. He went to US on some find of training / org visit. Convince us take him.
- Decide drive to Toul Sleng ($5, incl. driver’s telling of his experience). Try sell us $20 tour of killing fields too (offered $15?). Stop for photos at victory monument to try sales pitch again.
- Explain us museum & his experience. Happy when war over, told to go out of city for few days on they can clean it. End up not being able to return. Sneak food, coconut rice, tin roof fish. Careful not get caught or killed. Given only small very thin rice porridge. Story matches other stories heard & text in museum, etc.
- Wife drop off his lunch. We go in to visit.
- 4 Blds. Not in time for movie. Small holding cells, toilet box, chain, etc still in some cells. Pictures of people. Torture equipment. Chair for photographing. Drawings. Skulls with trauma marks. Beds with chains (no mattress). Wood chalkboards with writing (put in after or original?). Graffitti on walls, some math stuff. Barbed wire nets. Blds a bit decaying & ominous. Palm trees outside, nice-looking grounds. Panels of stuff against Khmer Rouge. Photos of some KR leaders, eyes of Duch scratched out, writing / graffitti over picture. Strange to find out some trials just starting. Some leaders already dead. See/meet one of the survivors selling/autographing his book.
- Decide go to killing fields. Timing not as good if originally decided to take long tour, as then would have arranged it so we can see the 1hr movie at Toul Sleng.
- Tuktuk on dusty highway not comfortable. Covered in dust, especially when trucks pall. See small markets & bottles of petrol. Walk up a small hill at one point as tuktuk not have power to take us up.
- See rice being planted near parking place. Fertiliser mix of cow dung & human urine among others.
- Terribly composed video. Wolf howl, wind louder than people in interviews, the slow echo voice at end, cheesy special effects. Museum: skulls with trauma marks, info, etc.
- Lots of excavated pits. Clothes, bone fragments in one section. Clothes fragments everywhere. Tree where they killed children. Very nice-looking memorial with x# of layers: clothes, skulls, large bones, small bones, etc. Walk around the pond.
- Russian Market: lots of clothes, souveniers. Food section cool, dark interior of market. Buy fruit, including red dragonfruit. Very bright celour.
- Dropped off at palace. Rain start. Give $20 instead of $15?. “no tip? it’s OK.” He didn’t drop us at hotel too. Wait for us & offer drop us at hotel for $1.
- Nice, but not extremely impressive. Old murals on wall. Small temples. Temple on a small wooded hill cool. Throne room nice. Yellowish colour, large mirrors. Chandaliers make it look more European than expected. Statues & the tiered “umbrellas.” Nice complex metal gates. Lots of ppl. attracted by model of Angkor. Funny ppl. seem more interested in that than palace. Very large fish in the small encircling pond around model.
- Internet: get info of Kate & Felix’s friend.
- Walk back to close to palace to FCC to try to meet Kate.She say she arrive ~5pm, we there ~5:30. Quick 10min beer ($1 each), no Kate. Nice setting, open, fancy, overlooking the waterfront boulevard.
- Walk back to clone to Internet, look for Felix’s friend. Back & forth, looking for the Quay hotel. Very small sign, eventually found close to FCC after some asking.
- Trendy-looking place & waitress. Friend say Khmer Lazy: I find is common 3rd world complaint. Expensive-ish drinks. The guy works for an NGO, lived here on/off for ~5yrs, but does not speak Khmer.
- Tuktuk to Khmer BBQ place. Beer girls promoting beer. SE Asia habit of ice in beer. Free vegetables. Tannin filled banana slices (with skin). Grilled beef & pork. “Grilled beef nipple” on menu, should have ordered it. Fried rice, wrapped sweet thing in leaf as free dessert. Felix offer tuktuk price on way back, not have them start. The spending/negotiation misfits between me & Felix.
- Note from Kate. Meet at a close Irish Bar just as they plan to leave. Kate get off work @ 7:30 or so due to marital problems of her boss/hostel owners. Go to a rooftop bar overlooking river: 50c beers. Talk. Kate brought nearly entire hostel. Arrange to go to silk farm of someone she worked with before, the next day.
- Too late for bus tickets on return, so will try tomorrow. Meet Kate at her hostel at 7:30. She wark there for accommodation ($4/night).
- Tuktuk to central market due to Felix misunderstanding 100 R vs. $1. Not hear correctly. 1st tuktuk ride.
- Bowl of noodles at market. Get the rice cake with garlic chives. Bags of sauce (very full) that we didn’t really use.
- Walk to the temple. Wat Phnom? Avoid paying entrance gates. Elephant that Felix took photo with the day before. Temple OK, nothing too exciting. On hill.
- Walk to palace, stop by a temple on way, as not sure what is palace. Make small donation. Nice official-looking temple behind wall.
- Followed by tuktuk drivers trying to convince us to use them with variety of tricks.
- National museum. Very good architecture. No photos inside. Nice collection of artefacts, better than Malaysian museums. Lots of people pass out the small fragrant flowers for some Buddhist statues & ask for money. Nice generally chronological organisation. Paintings & story explanations. See lots of similar paintings in future. Same story?
- Accosted by charismatic tuktuk driver translating our iced coffee order. He went to US on some find of training / org visit. Convince us take him.
- Decide drive to Toul Sleng ($5, incl. driver’s telling of his experience). Try sell us $20 tour of killing fields too (offered $15?). Stop for photos at victory monument to try sales pitch again.
- Explain us museum & his experience. Happy when war over, told to go out of city for few days on they can clean it. End up not being able to return. Sneak food, coconut rice, tin roof fish. Careful not get caught or killed. Given only small very thin rice porridge. Story matches other stories heard & text in museum, etc.
- Wife drop off his lunch. We go in to visit.
- 4 Blds. Not in time for movie. Small holding cells, toilet box, chain, etc still in some cells. Pictures of people. Torture equipment. Chair for photographing. Drawings. Skulls with trauma marks. Beds with chains (no mattress). Wood chalkboards with writing (put in after or original?). Graffitti on walls, some math stuff. Barbed wire nets. Blds a bit decaying & ominous. Palm trees outside, nice-looking grounds. Panels of stuff against Khmer Rouge. Photos of some KR leaders, eyes of Duch scratched out, writing / graffitti over picture. Strange to find out some trials just starting. Some leaders already dead. See/meet one of the survivors selling/autographing his book.
- Decide go to killing fields. Timing not as good if originally decided to take long tour, as then would have arranged it so we can see the 1hr movie at Toul Sleng.
- Tuktuk on dusty highway not comfortable. Covered in dust, especially when trucks pall. See small markets & bottles of petrol. Walk up a small hill at one point as tuktuk not have power to take us up.
- See rice being planted near parking place. Fertiliser mix of cow dung & human urine among others.
- Terribly composed video. Wolf howl, wind louder than people in interviews, the slow echo voice at end, cheesy special effects. Museum: skulls with trauma marks, info, etc.
- Lots of excavated pits. Clothes, bone fragments in one section. Clothes fragments everywhere. Tree where they killed children. Very nice-looking memorial with x# of layers: clothes, skulls, large bones, small bones, etc. Walk around the pond.
- Russian Market: lots of clothes, souveniers. Food section cool, dark interior of market. Buy fruit, including red dragonfruit. Very bright celour.
- Dropped off at palace. Rain start. Give $20 instead of $15?. “no tip? it’s OK.” He didn’t drop us at hotel too. Wait for us & offer drop us at hotel for $1.
- Nice, but not extremely impressive. Old murals on wall. Small temples. Temple on a small wooded hill cool. Throne room nice. Yellowish colour, large mirrors. Chandaliers make it look more European than expected. Statues & the tiered “umbrellas.” Nice complex metal gates. Lots of ppl. attracted by model of Angkor. Funny ppl. seem more interested in that than palace. Very large fish in the small encircling pond around model.
- Internet: get info of Kate & Felix’s friend.
- Walk back to close to palace to FCC to try to meet Kate.She say she arrive ~5pm, we there ~5:30. Quick 10min beer ($1 each), no Kate. Nice setting, open, fancy, overlooking the waterfront boulevard.
- Walk back to clone to Internet, look for Felix’s friend. Back & forth, looking for the Quay hotel. Very small sign, eventually found close to FCC after some asking.
- Trendy-looking place & waitress. Friend say Khmer Lazy: I find is common 3rd world complaint. Expensive-ish drinks. The guy works for an NGO, lived here on/off for ~5yrs, but does not speak Khmer.
- Tuktuk to Khmer BBQ place. Beer girls promoting beer. SE Asia habit of ice in beer. Free vegetables. Tannin filled banana slices (with skin). Grilled beef & pork. “Grilled beef nipple” on menu, should have ordered it. Fried rice, wrapped sweet thing in leaf as free dessert. Felix offer tuktuk price on way back, not have them start. The spending/negotiation misfits between me & Felix.
- Note from Kate. Meet at a close Irish Bar just as they plan to leave. Kate get off work @ 7:30 or so due to marital problems of her boss/hostel owners. Go to a rooftop bar overlooking river: 50c beers. Talk. Kate brought nearly entire hostel. Arrange to go to silk farm of someone she worked with before, the next day.
- Too late for bus tickets on return, so will try tomorrow. Meet Kate at her hostel at 7:30. She wark there for accommodation ($4/night).
Thursday, July 21, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 69
Day 69: (21 July 2011):
- Walk to National Mosque. Take surprisingly long. Crossing some roads difficult.
- News from dad Ch. may confiscate money collection: I’m very worried. Was worried about computer before, although I have backup, so net too worried.
- Borrow a purple robe. Tourists cover up with purple robes, women wear hood.
- Mosque nice, but not too impressive. Sharp angular shapes / architecture.
- Central Market for burbur. Later start than expected.
- Took wrong / long route to Pasar Seni.
- Look for the international currency machine I saw yesterday, as someone says I need the USD on arrival for visa, as ATM there, but often not work.
- Didn’t walk for enough at Sentral, waste 20 min waiting to ask / exchange. Machine out of order when I get there. But see info say foreign machine avail. at LCCT. Already frustrating start to day.
- 9 RM bus to airport. Leave Sentral ~noon. 3pm flight. 1.5 hr check-in cutoff?
- See large blds of Putrajaya & Cyberjaya. Smooth, only ~1hr to airport.
- LCCT like a warehouse. Far from main terminal: if transferring, need to take bus for 2.5RM.
- Try use foreign currency ATM, does not take my card. Only CIMB card!
- Last min realisation: Sell my 45 NZD + 1RM for 50RM for collection & some USD (30-35?). Rate not bad.
- Confirm documents after self-check-in.
- Eat Penang Laksa (expensive, 13RM?). Only ~2RM left!
- Board plane. Confusing shared walkways. Cambodian girls: stand close/touching. Not organised on boarding. I missed instruction to board from rear stairs. I sit 2nd last row or so. Everyone get in everyone’s way, no queues. Remind me of boarding Chinese trains.
- No happy birthday stuff. Expected it as online flight info included “birthday” bullet point & see comments online abt. other’s experience.
- Get asked by 3 Cambodians from Kampung Cham (Thought they say Cambodia) to fill their documents for them. Girl help roughly translate. Lots of turbulence.
- Fly over PP on landing.
- $20 visa, $2 photo fee. Process more streamlined than expected.
- Pick up @ airport. Pick up person say Cambodia poor. Chinese iPhone clone. Hectic streets. Real Asia (developing Asia). Dusty. Blds. reasonably well maintained. Hotel, see Felix sit on balconey.
- Meet Felix, rest a bit & chat.
- Have to start get used to not putting toilet paper in toilet.
- Walk to river (nice, tourist centre), central market (closing), past a park that used to be a river (road has “bridge” across it. Can’t find ATM. See some temples. Random woman follow, ask me Chinese, etc? A produce market, buy durian: 2K/kilo.
- Get USD from ATM (ANZ). Find everyone treat 1USD = 4K Riel. I convert $20, as conversion (at jewerllery shop) better & some seem to prefer Riel.
- Internet: let Kate know can meet for dinner next day, name time & close-by place. Felix tell his friend same thing, apparently. Friend of someone he met while flat hunting?
- Eat, turns out we ate at one of those charitable restaurants, although very expensive ~ 6-7 $ for a dish. 75c beers.
- Return to hotel. Note from Kate. Tell me what hostel she is at. Felix jet lagged & tired, decide not to go find her tonight. Happy B-day in note. Felix just hear/realise is my B-Day today.
- Sleep early. Eat durian. Lots of geckos.
- Walk to National Mosque. Take surprisingly long. Crossing some roads difficult.
- News from dad Ch. may confiscate money collection: I’m very worried. Was worried about computer before, although I have backup, so net too worried.
- Borrow a purple robe. Tourists cover up with purple robes, women wear hood.
- Mosque nice, but not too impressive. Sharp angular shapes / architecture.
- Central Market for burbur. Later start than expected.
- Took wrong / long route to Pasar Seni.
- Look for the international currency machine I saw yesterday, as someone says I need the USD on arrival for visa, as ATM there, but often not work.
- Didn’t walk for enough at Sentral, waste 20 min waiting to ask / exchange. Machine out of order when I get there. But see info say foreign machine avail. at LCCT. Already frustrating start to day.
- 9 RM bus to airport. Leave Sentral ~noon. 3pm flight. 1.5 hr check-in cutoff?
- See large blds of Putrajaya & Cyberjaya. Smooth, only ~1hr to airport.
- LCCT like a warehouse. Far from main terminal: if transferring, need to take bus for 2.5RM.
- Try use foreign currency ATM, does not take my card. Only CIMB card!
- Last min realisation: Sell my 45 NZD + 1RM for 50RM for collection & some USD (30-35?). Rate not bad.
- Confirm documents after self-check-in.
- Eat Penang Laksa (expensive, 13RM?). Only ~2RM left!
- Board plane. Confusing shared walkways. Cambodian girls: stand close/touching. Not organised on boarding. I missed instruction to board from rear stairs. I sit 2nd last row or so. Everyone get in everyone’s way, no queues. Remind me of boarding Chinese trains.
- No happy birthday stuff. Expected it as online flight info included “birthday” bullet point & see comments online abt. other’s experience.
- Get asked by 3 Cambodians from Kampung Cham (Thought they say Cambodia) to fill their documents for them. Girl help roughly translate. Lots of turbulence.
- Fly over PP on landing.
- $20 visa, $2 photo fee. Process more streamlined than expected.
- Pick up @ airport. Pick up person say Cambodia poor. Chinese iPhone clone. Hectic streets. Real Asia (developing Asia). Dusty. Blds. reasonably well maintained. Hotel, see Felix sit on balconey.
- Meet Felix, rest a bit & chat.
- Have to start get used to not putting toilet paper in toilet.
- Walk to river (nice, tourist centre), central market (closing), past a park that used to be a river (road has “bridge” across it. Can’t find ATM. See some temples. Random woman follow, ask me Chinese, etc? A produce market, buy durian: 2K/kilo.
- Get USD from ATM (ANZ). Find everyone treat 1USD = 4K Riel. I convert $20, as conversion (at jewerllery shop) better & some seem to prefer Riel.
- Internet: let Kate know can meet for dinner next day, name time & close-by place. Felix tell his friend same thing, apparently. Friend of someone he met while flat hunting?
- Eat, turns out we ate at one of those charitable restaurants, although very expensive ~ 6-7 $ for a dish. 75c beers.
- Return to hotel. Note from Kate. Tell me what hostel she is at. Felix jet lagged & tired, decide not to go find her tonight. Happy B-day in note. Felix just hear/realise is my B-Day today.
- Sleep early. Eat durian. Lots of geckos.
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 68
Day 68: (20 July 2011):- I arrive on the minute (9:30) to meet Swiss, like last night.
- Central Market food court. Chicken burbur with the hot sauce for 3.5RM. Delicious.
- Hostel: wait for girls (Say might go to Batu today. Talked with last night) 10:30-11, but not show up.
- Swiss suggest “nice walk” to Sentral. Turned to be terrible walk under bridge with rubbish, no sidewalk, cars, etc.
- Underbelly of Sentral. Hot, busy, crowded, buses, construction, etc. Emerge to main floor: interesting contrast. Sentral has airport train/check-in like HK. 35RM.
- Train: 1RM to, 2RM back. Stop is right beside entrance to temple. Realise train passes through the much closer station.
- Cool monkey god statue.
- Temple with intense paintings. Elephant with leg in crocodile mouth, holding lotus up to a god. Man (god?) with lion head sitting on throne, ripping the guts out of a lying person on lap with hands, etc. Wondered what the story is.
- Cliffs quite cool, straight out of flat ground. Mini mountain by building across road.
- Nice pond. Large golden statue. Large staircase leading to temple.
- Monkeys after gate. Take people’s food & bottles. Agile. Jump around.
- Amazingly large cave. Series of temples in cave. Lights. Worshippers. Shops, a cheap lights decoration thing with looping tunny music.
- Temple in opening to sky outside of main cave. Monkeys have to be kept at bay. Painted rock formations (white/yellow layers all around). Bats & monkeys & chickens.
- Nice view from top. Can see Central KL. Decide not go in the side caves that have to be paid for with guided tours.
- Felix say hi as we head down, but I could not remember who he was.
- Chai & dosa for snack.
- Wait for train, meet Felix on train, said something that let me remember who he is. Say just saw the girls & Germans arrive.
- The 3 of us get off at station to go to the market to the north.
- Pass by monorail. I lead, using map & found it. Dirty part of town.
- One of the most intense markets I’ve seen. Pile of dried fish smell hit hard. Black conical snails. Live fish wriggling. Cow head. Chopping & haggling & selling/calling all around. Vegetable, meat, fruit, etc. sections. Buy some fruit. 4-6x cheaper than the Jalan Petalan market. The logan-like segmented fruit & 3 rose apples, only 4RM total.
- Walk to tower & see park below. Stairs, concrete trails. Suspended walkway.
- Ice blend drink / juice at tower.
- Look for garden bld. for food. Fail. See green bld(s), but wrong one?
- Eat at restaurant on Jalan Alor. Sting ray, eel, shrimp. The fried pieces around shrimp very delicate & buttery. Calamansi juice. Very expensive: 30-40RM each. No complaints about the food. Worried about lack of RM. Used “reserve 50RM note.”
- Walk back. Bus station. Sunset behind Maybank building: Star Wars-like.
- Banyan trees along main roads.
- Part ways near hostel. Give e-mail to Swiss.
- Eat lots of fruit at hostel. Write journal. TV. Lounge in ACed room.
- Central Market food court. Chicken burbur with the hot sauce for 3.5RM. Delicious.
- Hostel: wait for girls (Say might go to Batu today. Talked with last night) 10:30-11, but not show up.
- Swiss suggest “nice walk” to Sentral. Turned to be terrible walk under bridge with rubbish, no sidewalk, cars, etc.
- Underbelly of Sentral. Hot, busy, crowded, buses, construction, etc. Emerge to main floor: interesting contrast. Sentral has airport train/check-in like HK. 35RM.
- Train: 1RM to, 2RM back. Stop is right beside entrance to temple. Realise train passes through the much closer station.
- Cool monkey god statue.
- Temple with intense paintings. Elephant with leg in crocodile mouth, holding lotus up to a god. Man (god?) with lion head sitting on throne, ripping the guts out of a lying person on lap with hands, etc. Wondered what the story is.
- Cliffs quite cool, straight out of flat ground. Mini mountain by building across road.
- Nice pond. Large golden statue. Large staircase leading to temple.
- Monkeys after gate. Take people’s food & bottles. Agile. Jump around.
- Amazingly large cave. Series of temples in cave. Lights. Worshippers. Shops, a cheap lights decoration thing with looping tunny music.
- Temple in opening to sky outside of main cave. Monkeys have to be kept at bay. Painted rock formations (white/yellow layers all around). Bats & monkeys & chickens.
- Nice view from top. Can see Central KL. Decide not go in the side caves that have to be paid for with guided tours.
- Felix say hi as we head down, but I could not remember who he was.
- Chai & dosa for snack.
- Wait for train, meet Felix on train, said something that let me remember who he is. Say just saw the girls & Germans arrive.
- The 3 of us get off at station to go to the market to the north.
- Pass by monorail. I lead, using map & found it. Dirty part of town.
- One of the most intense markets I’ve seen. Pile of dried fish smell hit hard. Black conical snails. Live fish wriggling. Cow head. Chopping & haggling & selling/calling all around. Vegetable, meat, fruit, etc. sections. Buy some fruit. 4-6x cheaper than the Jalan Petalan market. The logan-like segmented fruit & 3 rose apples, only 4RM total.
- Walk to tower & see park below. Stairs, concrete trails. Suspended walkway.
- Ice blend drink / juice at tower.
- Look for garden bld. for food. Fail. See green bld(s), but wrong one?
- Eat at restaurant on Jalan Alor. Sting ray, eel, shrimp. The fried pieces around shrimp very delicate & buttery. Calamansi juice. Very expensive: 30-40RM each. No complaints about the food. Worried about lack of RM. Used “reserve 50RM note.”
- Walk back. Bus station. Sunset behind Maybank building: Star Wars-like.
- Banyan trees along main roads.
- Part ways near hostel. Give e-mail to Swiss.
- Eat lots of fruit at hostel. Write journal. TV. Lounge in ACed room.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 67
Day 67: (19 July 2011):
- Decide not wake up early for Petronas, so woke up naturally.
- Take subway/elevated train to Petronas. Very nice blds. Nice gardens & mall at base. Get lost after station, pop up at other side of garden. Walk over.
- large Q for tickets. Take photos outside. Meet girls: Q at 5am, get tickets ~10am, sold out shortly after. Nice mall & atrium around. Skybrigde not that high.
- Walk to tower. Hectic crosswalks (absent some times). Cross light button not work.
- Crossing road in KL difficult, as noted by LP. Some sidewalks missing, others are blocked by mystery barriers. Cars park on it, see truck dump dirt on it, etc.
- Sweaty walk up hill. Small stores area.
- Islamic tiling at entrance. People welcome & hand on chest. Realise didn’t look for the cheap 20RM tickets. Cost 45RM. Decide not go to the skybar happy hour that was recommended. Nice audio/video tour. Petronas seem stubbier than I expected. Batu Caves looks cool in distance.
- Chose the animal display: 3 choices: animal display, F1 simulator or pony ride. Some cool things, mostly snakes. Large geckos. Monkeys, tortoise pen. Animals are cramped together and place does not look happy at all.
- Free shuttle to entrance. Realise could have avoided the walk up. Chat with shuttle person while waiting, as I had to wait for next shuttle as is full.
- Walk to Jalan Alor, as rec’ed by Wikitravel. Lots of restaurants, some street food (less than expected).
- Ate at busy restaurant. Due to order confusion, had chance to chat with a person who worked at Scotiabank (I walked past bld. on way here). He ask how I find this place, say is famous. Rec’ed a green bld with lots of food under it. Had fish head noodle soup & juice of something like a feijoa.
- Walk back to hostel. Cool down in AC.
- Walk by train station to look for tourist info on map. However, was just a construction site. Continue to national museum.
- Best of the Malaysian museums, but still a lack of genuine artefacts. Assumptions of knowledge also made. Poor organisation. Some cool houses, models outside. Visit some of the small adjascent “museums.”
- Go to park. Parking guy offer drive me for 7RM. I say want to walk through park. Response: “If you want to waste your time, go.”
- Baffling sign on shut down escalator on pedestrian bridge.
- Meet Swiss guy as enter park, us both look at map, etc.
-Explore park together. Nice park, locked gates some places & open elsewhere.
- Walk towards National Monument. Difficulty crossing a main road.
- National Monument nice, but some parts poorly maintained: tiles missing in fountain, etc. Have to walk up hill. See parliament: remind me of Temple on NOD.
- Long walk back to town. Some cool buildings, grass parks, large flag.
- Swiss decide not to go to tower anymore. Back ~6, 5:30. Decide will meet at 7:30 for dinner. Cool off, Internet.
- One shirt blown off to tree on one floor below, use broom handle to get. No big problem as floor is owned by hostel. Lucky did not rain.
- Noodles for dinner. Have durian: cheap one this time (5RM instead of 15), can’t tell diff. First time Swiss have durian.
- Arrange to meet for Batu Caves next day.
- Have mango (very good) & Lychee. Expensive. Fruit seller tell me no negotiating when buying fruit. >20RM for fruit.
- Meet Felix the German in my room.
- Decide not wake up early for Petronas, so woke up naturally.
- Take subway/elevated train to Petronas. Very nice blds. Nice gardens & mall at base. Get lost after station, pop up at other side of garden. Walk over.
- large Q for tickets. Take photos outside. Meet girls: Q at 5am, get tickets ~10am, sold out shortly after. Nice mall & atrium around. Skybrigde not that high.
- Walk to tower. Hectic crosswalks (absent some times). Cross light button not work.
- Crossing road in KL difficult, as noted by LP. Some sidewalks missing, others are blocked by mystery barriers. Cars park on it, see truck dump dirt on it, etc.
- Sweaty walk up hill. Small stores area.
- Islamic tiling at entrance. People welcome & hand on chest. Realise didn’t look for the cheap 20RM tickets. Cost 45RM. Decide not go to the skybar happy hour that was recommended. Nice audio/video tour. Petronas seem stubbier than I expected. Batu Caves looks cool in distance.
- Chose the animal display: 3 choices: animal display, F1 simulator or pony ride. Some cool things, mostly snakes. Large geckos. Monkeys, tortoise pen. Animals are cramped together and place does not look happy at all.
- Free shuttle to entrance. Realise could have avoided the walk up. Chat with shuttle person while waiting, as I had to wait for next shuttle as is full.
- Walk to Jalan Alor, as rec’ed by Wikitravel. Lots of restaurants, some street food (less than expected).
- Ate at busy restaurant. Due to order confusion, had chance to chat with a person who worked at Scotiabank (I walked past bld. on way here). He ask how I find this place, say is famous. Rec’ed a green bld with lots of food under it. Had fish head noodle soup & juice of something like a feijoa.
- Walk back to hostel. Cool down in AC.
- Walk by train station to look for tourist info on map. However, was just a construction site. Continue to national museum.
- Best of the Malaysian museums, but still a lack of genuine artefacts. Assumptions of knowledge also made. Poor organisation. Some cool houses, models outside. Visit some of the small adjascent “museums.”
- Go to park. Parking guy offer drive me for 7RM. I say want to walk through park. Response: “If you want to waste your time, go.”
- Baffling sign on shut down escalator on pedestrian bridge.
- Meet Swiss guy as enter park, us both look at map, etc.
-Explore park together. Nice park, locked gates some places & open elsewhere.
- Walk towards National Monument. Difficulty crossing a main road.
- National Monument nice, but some parts poorly maintained: tiles missing in fountain, etc. Have to walk up hill. See parliament: remind me of Temple on NOD.
- Long walk back to town. Some cool buildings, grass parks, large flag.
- Swiss decide not to go to tower anymore. Back ~6, 5:30. Decide will meet at 7:30 for dinner. Cool off, Internet.
- One shirt blown off to tree on one floor below, use broom handle to get. No big problem as floor is owned by hostel. Lucky did not rain.
- Noodles for dinner. Have durian: cheap one this time (5RM instead of 15), can’t tell diff. First time Swiss have durian.
- Arrange to meet for Batu Caves next day.
- Have mango (very good) & Lychee. Expensive. Fruit seller tell me no negotiating when buying fruit. >20RM for fruit.
- Meet Felix the German in my room.
Monday, July 18, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 66
Day 66: (18 July 2011):
- Decide get chicken ball for breakfast, but not really open.
- 20-30 min queue at post office for stamps. 1 person behind me. Frustrating.
- Quick tour of ruined fort.
- Visit the Sultinate Palace hotel.Replica of palace built in traditional way. Museum again a bit lacksuntre, but some nice traditional costumes. Nice bld & gardens.
- Have chicken ball on way back. Not even ask what I order. I also have corn water(?). Sounded like yu mi shui or something like it.
- Pack up & leave ~12:30. Buy soy milk & get on bus. Sit a while & leave.
- Arrive @ Sentral & buy ticket for 12RM: leave in 10m @1:30.
- Wait, but bus not leave until ~1:50.
- Luxerious buses. Wide seats. Recline. Armrests.
- More sugar palm plantations. drainage steps.
- Arrive big bus stop in KL. As someone told me, bus stops are like airports in Malaysia. Multiple levels, modern, streamlined. Big arrivals & departure boards. Petronas signs.
- Have quick lunch: Indian self-serve? over 8RM, expensive.
- Find tram at attached station. Change lines at Masjid Jamek (Nice mosque at.) to Pasar Seni. Lots of very long names in Malaysia. As warned, poor integration. Exit & re-enter to transfer.
- Walk around a bit, find hostel. Have 6 bd dorm, but prices are higher than online, and not sure if can offer 3 for 2 night deal. Will ask owner later. Nice cold reception, but needed to have backpackers let me in as no staff around. Use computer as wait.
- Map from central market. Sea coconut juice. Post card & magnet.
- Ate at place recommended my Wikitravel. Walk by Masjid Jamek on way back.
- Great market at Jalan Petalan. Buy expensive 15RM durian, tasty, but not notice why expensive. Near fight(-like attitude) when buying rambutan & negociation with street fruit vendor.
- Can call mom for free with provided headphones & free Internet here.
- Use the free washing machine.
- Decide get chicken ball for breakfast, but not really open.
- 20-30 min queue at post office for stamps. 1 person behind me. Frustrating.
- Quick tour of ruined fort.
- Visit the Sultinate Palace hotel.Replica of palace built in traditional way. Museum again a bit lacksuntre, but some nice traditional costumes. Nice bld & gardens.
- Have chicken ball on way back. Not even ask what I order. I also have corn water(?). Sounded like yu mi shui or something like it.
- Pack up & leave ~12:30. Buy soy milk & get on bus. Sit a while & leave.
- Arrive @ Sentral & buy ticket for 12RM: leave in 10m @1:30.
- Wait, but bus not leave until ~1:50.
- Luxerious buses. Wide seats. Recline. Armrests.
- More sugar palm plantations. drainage steps.
- Arrive big bus stop in KL. As someone told me, bus stops are like airports in Malaysia. Multiple levels, modern, streamlined. Big arrivals & departure boards. Petronas signs.
- Have quick lunch: Indian self-serve? over 8RM, expensive.
- Find tram at attached station. Change lines at Masjid Jamek (Nice mosque at.) to Pasar Seni. Lots of very long names in Malaysia. As warned, poor integration. Exit & re-enter to transfer.
- Walk around a bit, find hostel. Have 6 bd dorm, but prices are higher than online, and not sure if can offer 3 for 2 night deal. Will ask owner later. Nice cold reception, but needed to have backpackers let me in as no staff around. Use computer as wait.
- Map from central market. Sea coconut juice. Post card & magnet.
- Ate at place recommended my Wikitravel. Walk by Masjid Jamek on way back.
- Great market at Jalan Petalan. Buy expensive 15RM durian, tasty, but not notice why expensive. Near fight(-like attitude) when buying rambutan & negociation with street fruit vendor.
- Can call mom for free with provided headphones & free Internet here.
- Use the free washing machine.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 65
Day 65: (17 July 2011):
- Go to the place famous for chicken ball. Have seen day before with queue. Arrive ~10[11am, no queue, but still busy. No menu, confirm I want Hainan chicken - turns out this is the “chicken ball.” Due to a language misunderstanding, I got a coconut for drink. Coconut & chicken: 4RM each. Chicken looks oily but not heavy taste. A bit tough, but flavour balance just right. Rice balls are a bit yellow, but light flavour. Hot sauce & soy sauce mix. Overall very good.
- At some point in morning, met with US girls, who are going to zoo then to old town area. I decide go to old town area & not join then to zoo.
- Walk to end of Jonkers & over bridge: nice view. Big lizard.
- Nice town centre. Lots of tourists.
- Spend most of morning in the complex of museums. Most museums bad: photos, replicas, photos of replicas. Lots of text: like walking through a website. Statues are mostly mannequins with clothes, sprayed in rock-coloured paint? Some bad items: damaged (even a guitar is damaged). Heat & humidity: splotches on paintings. Gifts from high commissions look better than most artefacts. No AC in main museum, but enjoyed escaping to AC in museums with AC. Nice coin collections from variety of countries. Some cute-looking coins. Many are donated from some people. Lots of museums require taking off shoes.
- Up to cathederal on hill. Only walls & lighthouse remain. Some tomb panels. Nice view. See the tower observation thing. Hot. Some hawkers.
- Walk to find Capitol Satay ~3pm. Buy magnet & ask direction. Poor English dirs. AC.e hotel person tell me where, but say only open at 6. See large traditional bld. No entry sign.
- Have baba laksa @ Jonkers 88 even with queue. Find seat. Share table. The fried puffs surprisingly good. One with fish cake filling? Durial cendol for dessert. Difficult, but found seat & ate.
- Stop back @ hostel. Internet. Find hostel, but no book, no 6 bed dorms left. Girls come back from zoo.
- Walk around with girls. Some nice small streets & along river on old side of town. Durian puff. Nice, but filling easily runs out & onto things.
- Meet back @ 6:30. Harry take 10 of us to restaurant. Mini tour on way.
- Drop 2 off at a famous Indian restaurant.
- River separating cafés & slums. Walkway in middle of river. Light curtain to hide slums @ night. Entrapment filmed here (with Petronas towers added in scene).
- Capitol Satay. Long Q. Harry say his record 1.75hrs. Buy drinks (soy milk for me) & teach girls to play contact. Time pass quickly with game.
- Signs warning of fakes restaurants.
- Pot of sauce, then add 4 big ladles of peanut & spices to it. Surprisingly thick.
- Lots of skewers. Cook & eat lots. Tiger beer for 7.5PM. As tipped, good seafood comes to table, large clams, shrimp, squid, abalone? All .80RM each. Refill sauce often. Volcano-like splattering. Crust on side of pot. Very fast counting of skewers. Only 17.5RM each, incl. beer!
- Find way back to Jonkers. Good Feijoa-like juice & unripe mango juice: tangy. Lots of ppl. watching live entertainment. Turns out is Karaoke. Songs get cutoff as soon as lyrics end. people get into it. Dressed up, dancing. Some creepy/awesome.
- Go to the place famous for chicken ball. Have seen day before with queue. Arrive ~10[11am, no queue, but still busy. No menu, confirm I want Hainan chicken - turns out this is the “chicken ball.” Due to a language misunderstanding, I got a coconut for drink. Coconut & chicken: 4RM each. Chicken looks oily but not heavy taste. A bit tough, but flavour balance just right. Rice balls are a bit yellow, but light flavour. Hot sauce & soy sauce mix. Overall very good.
- At some point in morning, met with US girls, who are going to zoo then to old town area. I decide go to old town area & not join then to zoo.
- Walk to end of Jonkers & over bridge: nice view. Big lizard.
- Nice town centre. Lots of tourists.
- Spend most of morning in the complex of museums. Most museums bad: photos, replicas, photos of replicas. Lots of text: like walking through a website. Statues are mostly mannequins with clothes, sprayed in rock-coloured paint? Some bad items: damaged (even a guitar is damaged). Heat & humidity: splotches on paintings. Gifts from high commissions look better than most artefacts. No AC in main museum, but enjoyed escaping to AC in museums with AC. Nice coin collections from variety of countries. Some cute-looking coins. Many are donated from some people. Lots of museums require taking off shoes.
- Up to cathederal on hill. Only walls & lighthouse remain. Some tomb panels. Nice view. See the tower observation thing. Hot. Some hawkers.
- Walk to find Capitol Satay ~3pm. Buy magnet & ask direction. Poor English dirs. AC.e hotel person tell me where, but say only open at 6. See large traditional bld. No entry sign.
- Have baba laksa @ Jonkers 88 even with queue. Find seat. Share table. The fried puffs surprisingly good. One with fish cake filling? Durial cendol for dessert. Difficult, but found seat & ate.
- Stop back @ hostel. Internet. Find hostel, but no book, no 6 bed dorms left. Girls come back from zoo.
- Walk around with girls. Some nice small streets & along river on old side of town. Durian puff. Nice, but filling easily runs out & onto things.
- Meet back @ 6:30. Harry take 10 of us to restaurant. Mini tour on way.
- Drop 2 off at a famous Indian restaurant.
- River separating cafés & slums. Walkway in middle of river. Light curtain to hide slums @ night. Entrapment filmed here (with Petronas towers added in scene).
- Capitol Satay. Long Q. Harry say his record 1.75hrs. Buy drinks (soy milk for me) & teach girls to play contact. Time pass quickly with game.
- Signs warning of fakes restaurants.
- Pot of sauce, then add 4 big ladles of peanut & spices to it. Surprisingly thick.
- Lots of skewers. Cook & eat lots. Tiger beer for 7.5PM. As tipped, good seafood comes to table, large clams, shrimp, squid, abalone? All .80RM each. Refill sauce often. Volcano-like splattering. Crust on side of pot. Very fast counting of skewers. Only 17.5RM each, incl. beer!
- Find way back to Jonkers. Good Feijoa-like juice & unripe mango juice: tangy. Lots of ppl. watching live entertainment. Turns out is Karaoke. Songs get cutoff as soon as lyrics end. people get into it. Dressed up, dancing. Some creepy/awesome.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 64
Day 64: (16 July 2011):
- Wake up, try a scroll that Matt’s mom baked: she is always baking. Pimento cheese is a Philipino classic.
- Walk: almost to park, realise forgot toothbrushing items, so return to get.
- The warning sign on the presidential residence fence.
- Had breakfast of dosa at the Indian place I saw day before & wanted to eat at.
- Arrive at station with 15 min to spare. Hurried a bit.
- Bus driver & people talking. Rev & sustain engine. Afraid maybe broke down.
- Bus leave. Bus very old-looking. Check which seat I am in. Turns out I sat right in my seat assignment!
- After a while, stop @ border. Quick to exit Singapore. Story of Matt’s mom’s choior member lose passport here after exiting Singapore.
- Over a bridge. No more English on signs. Bus queue.
- Long queue at customs. Many people. Confusion: I had to bring my bags.
- Female officers wear veil to cover hair. Some with berets over veil.
- Bad news: put sticker in passport. Less room. Sticker has rip-off tap for exit.
- Bus ride: Sugar palms. Drainage ditches like stairs. Nap.
- Arrive Melaka & follow instructions to Ringo’s Foyer. Melaka Sentral. Big mall. Releived to see. See 7-11s, hope for ATM. Found ATM in 7-11 in mall. Veiled women, Islamic-looking place. Busy mall. Very close to missing Ocean Plaza stop. Rest oy directions OK, use landmarks to guide.
- Have room available (didn’t book night before, as no more online beds).
- Harry(?) is nice, introduce guests to each other. Remember names & where from. His personal project. Want to sell it for 200kMR, maybe next year, & go travelling. Worked in Aus. before.
- Hungry, as did not have lunch. Almost dinner time, so decide walk & find food.
- Walk to Jonker’s. Busy Street, lots of food/stalls, small shops. No walkways. Common prob in Malaysia.
- Durian shop. Some people sit & eat. Not sure if polite to eat durian at restaurant tables, so did not have.
- People busy setting up or cleaning up.
- Same nice temples & mosques.
- Jonkers 88: queue. Thought: “no way I can get in there.” Another place: Queue.
- Eat sour laksa at Jonkers 86: looked similar to 88, but much less people.
- Laksa quite good. Some fish like canned tuna, but this seems to be used in a bunch of places.
- Have durian coconut cendol @ Jonker 88. Gula Melaka (?) surprisingly good. 1st time have fresh durian base food in SE Asia. Flavour very strong & good.
- Walk around more. Turns out people are setting up. Now road blocked to cars.
- Have bowl (20 sen less than cup) of refreshing luohan fruit drink. Vendor sells only this. “Uncle ***’s” something.
- Buy fresh grilled otak-otak to break $50PM note. Eat on way back. “Welcome to Melaka” as he hands it to me. Taste better than the one that came with my nasi goreng(?) in Singapore at the empty food court.
- Buy some pastries, gula melaka mix candy(?) & peanut candy.
- Share snacks with people at hostel. Gula in freezer on Harry’s reccommendation. Forgot about them & left in freezer. Peanut candy is hard minty candy. On street, person use chisel & hammer to break from big pan to put in bags.
- Walk around night market. Lots of people. Music performed on stage, some kind of world heritage festival. Street by Café Geographér of bars, screen playing live performance.
- French guy tell us about some famous eateries Herry? Harry? recommended & that he ate at. We all found Malaysia to be surprisingly cheap, especially with food.
- Return. Have beer with French guy at place downstairs. Beer expensive: 10-16 MR (large bottle), due to taxes. Muslim country, discourage drinking. Canadian girl join. Chat.
- Guy from Macau: Some communication difficulties, a bit slow sometimes, but tag along.
- Wake up, try a scroll that Matt’s mom baked: she is always baking. Pimento cheese is a Philipino classic.
- Walk: almost to park, realise forgot toothbrushing items, so return to get.
- The warning sign on the presidential residence fence.
- Had breakfast of dosa at the Indian place I saw day before & wanted to eat at.
- Arrive at station with 15 min to spare. Hurried a bit.
- Bus driver & people talking. Rev & sustain engine. Afraid maybe broke down.
- Bus leave. Bus very old-looking. Check which seat I am in. Turns out I sat right in my seat assignment!
- After a while, stop @ border. Quick to exit Singapore. Story of Matt’s mom’s choior member lose passport here after exiting Singapore.
- Over a bridge. No more English on signs. Bus queue.
- Long queue at customs. Many people. Confusion: I had to bring my bags.
- Female officers wear veil to cover hair. Some with berets over veil.
- Bad news: put sticker in passport. Less room. Sticker has rip-off tap for exit.
- Bus ride: Sugar palms. Drainage ditches like stairs. Nap.
- Arrive Melaka & follow instructions to Ringo’s Foyer. Melaka Sentral. Big mall. Releived to see. See 7-11s, hope for ATM. Found ATM in 7-11 in mall. Veiled women, Islamic-looking place. Busy mall. Very close to missing Ocean Plaza stop. Rest oy directions OK, use landmarks to guide.
- Have room available (didn’t book night before, as no more online beds).
- Harry(?) is nice, introduce guests to each other. Remember names & where from. His personal project. Want to sell it for 200kMR, maybe next year, & go travelling. Worked in Aus. before.
- Hungry, as did not have lunch. Almost dinner time, so decide walk & find food.
- Walk to Jonker’s. Busy Street, lots of food/stalls, small shops. No walkways. Common prob in Malaysia.
- Durian shop. Some people sit & eat. Not sure if polite to eat durian at restaurant tables, so did not have.
- People busy setting up or cleaning up.
- Same nice temples & mosques.
- Jonkers 88: queue. Thought: “no way I can get in there.” Another place: Queue.
- Eat sour laksa at Jonkers 86: looked similar to 88, but much less people.
- Laksa quite good. Some fish like canned tuna, but this seems to be used in a bunch of places.
- Have durian coconut cendol @ Jonker 88. Gula Melaka (?) surprisingly good. 1st time have fresh durian base food in SE Asia. Flavour very strong & good.
- Walk around more. Turns out people are setting up. Now road blocked to cars.
- Have bowl (20 sen less than cup) of refreshing luohan fruit drink. Vendor sells only this. “Uncle ***’s” something.
- Buy fresh grilled otak-otak to break $50PM note. Eat on way back. “Welcome to Melaka” as he hands it to me. Taste better than the one that came with my nasi goreng(?) in Singapore at the empty food court.
- Buy some pastries, gula melaka mix candy(?) & peanut candy.
- Share snacks with people at hostel. Gula in freezer on Harry’s reccommendation. Forgot about them & left in freezer. Peanut candy is hard minty candy. On street, person use chisel & hammer to break from big pan to put in bags.
- Walk around night market. Lots of people. Music performed on stage, some kind of world heritage festival. Street by Café Geographér of bars, screen playing live performance.
- French guy tell us about some famous eateries Herry? Harry? recommended & that he ate at. We all found Malaysia to be surprisingly cheap, especially with food.
- Return. Have beer with French guy at place downstairs. Beer expensive: 10-16 MR (large bottle), due to taxes. Muslim country, discourage drinking. Canadian girl join. Chat.
- Guy from Macau: Some communication difficulties, a bit slow sometimes, but tag along.
Friday, July 15, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 63
Day 63 (15 July 2011):
- Wake up ~8:30 or so, again, not fully realise when Matt left.
- Walk along main streets to Little India. Before entering, see Sim Lim Sq. Decide go. Charged by cab when crossing. He didn’t see or just charge me?
- Shops still closed, so just take quick look inside.
- Walk to Sri Veeramakaliamman. Typical Hindu temple. Monks inside with candles blessing people. Oldest Hindu temple in Singapore? Step inside quickly.
- Found restaurant with people. Village Curry. Didn’t eat at cheap Nasi Lemak place. Didn’t feel like nasi lemak. Spellings all a bit different: thosai vs. dosa, etc. Had puri with tea/chai.
- Walk into Tekka food Centre: Why always walk into good food courts right after meals?
- Food stalls & market stalls, incl. fish & meat. Loquat & jackfruit (redder version).
- Wander around Little India. Parts really like India. Unclean, open gutters, etc. Kind of surprised.
- Walk by a mosque to Mustafa Centre. Huge complex: has pretty much everything, incl. supermarket & restaurant. Open 24hr. Tie close bags on entry. Go to roof for view. Start raining.
- Some cool views: temples, on way to Lavender St. More hectic, less sidewalks.
- Lots of workshops & war / motorcycle repair shops.
- Find bus station, buy ticket for $20. Leave tomorrow at 11am.
- Rain starting to slow. Nice river & beachy part. Cat that approaches me. Scared its rabid since behaving strangely and following me.
- Just as shoes drying, see bus splash girl & bf ahead, then I get splashed in same spot.
- Dried umbrella as get to Golden Mile complex.
- Nearby signs have Thai.
- Ate noodle soup in a busy restaurant. Then realise many places are busy. Then run into another large “food centre.”
- Close-up view of the white building. Strange (UV?) violet glow from windows (reflection).
- Walk to the famous mosque. A service just ending. Lots of people & call-to-prayer like calls.
- Not as much Arabic words / signage as expected.
- Very stately-looking bld. with large statues, remind me of chat Ayn Rand is against of in “The Fountainhead.” Take photos, told no pics, so left.
- National library: 14 floors. Modern style bld, but outside could be maintained better.
- The puke in the bathroom. OK views of city from top.
- Decide go to Kallang on suggestion of Matt.
- While look at map in front of Raffles City, see/hear an accident in intersection. Mercedes Benz & mini-bus. Damage on Bumper. 3x bad things today. Hope is end of trend. It is.
- Bus 36, very smooth. Got off at correct stop.
- Found Kallang. Nice, but not as worth it as Matt indicated. Shoppes, restaurants. Matt also said many tourists, but I didn’t see any, and can’t find post cards!
-Start raining again.
- Found the mall that goes from Kallang to bus stop. Remember for trip back.
- Hindu temple.
- After walk around, head to Ocean Promenade (?). Smell durian. Found durian ice cream in basement. However, found durian market in outdoor area across street.
- Packed, pushy people. People stare at me when use camera. Want to buy durian, but not sure if is polite to eat it there. Think of eating at park by ocean, but raining.
- Walk to park. See post office, but impossible to find post card. Eventually found post card at Borders, but post office closed - just closed as I arrive!
- Dodgy people at underpass to park.
- Nice park. Trails, trees, grass. Picnic tables & huts (occupied with people). Beach area with view of many ships in water. Person fishing.
- Bus to Dhoby Gaut. No stamps at 7-11, ask: no stamps other than post office.
- Nothing too interesting at food court of plaza Singapura. No real seating. Walk & found nasi lemak at small, empty food court. Food doesn’t look too fresh, but taste OK. Think “why settle when I’m in Singapore” So decide walk & find foo I really felt like. In Singapore, I find what I want rather than eat what I find.
- I even feel like shopping is Singapore! If I lived there, I’d spend at least ½ day per weekend browsing shops for cool cheap things.
- Head back ~7pm. Grandma let me in. Use computer. Matt comes back ~10 min. later.
- After a while, (Matt on laptop computer). I on PC & write, we head out.
- Look for stamp label for me at a machine that takes only cards, but min. purchase is $2. Matt say dad has stamp, so decide ask tomorrow.
- Walk by parliament to by the river & durian buildings. Didn’t go to “tourist” side of river. Nice views everywhere. Very bright searchlights.
- Lots of skateboarders under bridge. Matt: not many other places skateboarders can ge. Other side of bridge is Starbucks.
- Light show from Marina Sands. Searchlight from Art Science museum cool. Extra bright searchlights from CBD. Matt: Like duelling lightsabers.
- Heavy rain, wind, cooler. Matt: very rare this windy, cold, rain at night. Which is why Matt said no umbrella needed when I asked.
- Go through durian bld. to get away from rain. Show just ending. Cool wire people sculptures. Busy inside. The downstairs mall has lots of people, very diff. than empty mall during the day.
- Take bus to mall close to Matt’s. Rain stop. Walk back: ~midnight.
- Set alarm & sleep.
- Wake up ~8:30 or so, again, not fully realise when Matt left.
- Walk along main streets to Little India. Before entering, see Sim Lim Sq. Decide go. Charged by cab when crossing. He didn’t see or just charge me?
- Shops still closed, so just take quick look inside.
- Walk to Sri Veeramakaliamman. Typical Hindu temple. Monks inside with candles blessing people. Oldest Hindu temple in Singapore? Step inside quickly.
- Found restaurant with people. Village Curry. Didn’t eat at cheap Nasi Lemak place. Didn’t feel like nasi lemak. Spellings all a bit different: thosai vs. dosa, etc. Had puri with tea/chai.
- Walk into Tekka food Centre: Why always walk into good food courts right after meals?
- Food stalls & market stalls, incl. fish & meat. Loquat & jackfruit (redder version).
- Wander around Little India. Parts really like India. Unclean, open gutters, etc. Kind of surprised.
- Walk by a mosque to Mustafa Centre. Huge complex: has pretty much everything, incl. supermarket & restaurant. Open 24hr. Tie close bags on entry. Go to roof for view. Start raining.
- Some cool views: temples, on way to Lavender St. More hectic, less sidewalks.
- Lots of workshops & war / motorcycle repair shops.
- Find bus station, buy ticket for $20. Leave tomorrow at 11am.
- Rain starting to slow. Nice river & beachy part. Cat that approaches me. Scared its rabid since behaving strangely and following me.
- Just as shoes drying, see bus splash girl & bf ahead, then I get splashed in same spot.
- Dried umbrella as get to Golden Mile complex.
- Nearby signs have Thai.
- Ate noodle soup in a busy restaurant. Then realise many places are busy. Then run into another large “food centre.”
- Close-up view of the white building. Strange (UV?) violet glow from windows (reflection).
- Walk to the famous mosque. A service just ending. Lots of people & call-to-prayer like calls.
- Not as much Arabic words / signage as expected.
- Very stately-looking bld. with large statues, remind me of chat Ayn Rand is against of in “The Fountainhead.” Take photos, told no pics, so left.
- National library: 14 floors. Modern style bld, but outside could be maintained better.
- The puke in the bathroom. OK views of city from top.
- Decide go to Kallang on suggestion of Matt.
- While look at map in front of Raffles City, see/hear an accident in intersection. Mercedes Benz & mini-bus. Damage on Bumper. 3x bad things today. Hope is end of trend. It is.
- Bus 36, very smooth. Got off at correct stop.
- Found Kallang. Nice, but not as worth it as Matt indicated. Shoppes, restaurants. Matt also said many tourists, but I didn’t see any, and can’t find post cards!
-Start raining again.
- Found the mall that goes from Kallang to bus stop. Remember for trip back.
- Hindu temple.
- After walk around, head to Ocean Promenade (?). Smell durian. Found durian ice cream in basement. However, found durian market in outdoor area across street.
- Packed, pushy people. People stare at me when use camera. Want to buy durian, but not sure if is polite to eat it there. Think of eating at park by ocean, but raining.
- Walk to park. See post office, but impossible to find post card. Eventually found post card at Borders, but post office closed - just closed as I arrive!
- Dodgy people at underpass to park.
- Nice park. Trails, trees, grass. Picnic tables & huts (occupied with people). Beach area with view of many ships in water. Person fishing.
- Bus to Dhoby Gaut. No stamps at 7-11, ask: no stamps other than post office.
- Nothing too interesting at food court of plaza Singapura. No real seating. Walk & found nasi lemak at small, empty food court. Food doesn’t look too fresh, but taste OK. Think “why settle when I’m in Singapore” So decide walk & find foo I really felt like. In Singapore, I find what I want rather than eat what I find.
- I even feel like shopping is Singapore! If I lived there, I’d spend at least ½ day per weekend browsing shops for cool cheap things.
- Head back ~7pm. Grandma let me in. Use computer. Matt comes back ~10 min. later.
- After a while, (Matt on laptop computer). I on PC & write, we head out.
- Look for stamp label for me at a machine that takes only cards, but min. purchase is $2. Matt say dad has stamp, so decide ask tomorrow.
- Walk by parliament to by the river & durian buildings. Didn’t go to “tourist” side of river. Nice views everywhere. Very bright searchlights.
- Lots of skateboarders under bridge. Matt: not many other places skateboarders can ge. Other side of bridge is Starbucks.
- Light show from Marina Sands. Searchlight from Art Science museum cool. Extra bright searchlights from CBD. Matt: Like duelling lightsabers.
- Heavy rain, wind, cooler. Matt: very rare this windy, cold, rain at night. Which is why Matt said no umbrella needed when I asked.
- Go through durian bld. to get away from rain. Show just ending. Cool wire people sculptures. Busy inside. The downstairs mall has lots of people, very diff. than empty mall during the day.
- Take bus to mall close to Matt’s. Rain stop. Walk back: ~midnight.
- Set alarm & sleep.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 62
Day 62: (14 July 2011):
- Wake up just after 7am. Realise Matt already gone.
- Prepare for day, leave at same time as parents & brother (Luke).
- Breakfast: $2 for noodles, paid by them. Dropped off at St. Andrew’s Cathedral, where dad was picking something up.
- Discuss how to get to Malacca & if JB interesting. Family all say JB is a dirtier, less safe version of Singapore. Apparently a common opinion, including president.
- Talk about water issues with Malaysia. Threaten to cut off water. Singapore treats & sells back water. Dam rivers to creat giant reservoir. No junk boats there anymore.
- Story about her meeting a random friend in Mississauga. Sick, doctor not sure what’s wrong. Gave her book of religious stories about women. She feel something while reading the book. Next time she see doctor, she is well.
- Not sure when the topics were discussed: talk to mom a lot the 1st 2 nights,
- Brother: Luke, went to U. Penn on the gov. scholarship. Just “released” from being “bonded” for 6 years.
- Quick look at cathedral. Metal gate in front of main entrance & no photo in nave. Nothing extremely worth mentioning. So didn’t go in. Looked inside.
- Walk by city hall & parliament. Old parliament now a complex that includes a restaurant.
- Supreme court & city hall appear bigger than parliament.
- See the landmark buildings of Singapore, including the new Marina Bay.
- Walk to by the river. Cool old bridge. Close view of the skyscrapers. One Raffles Space has beautiful angular quality.
- Cool area of small restaurants & bars.
- Walk along New Bridge Road to Chinatown. Big yellow prominant-looking building.
- Nice area like a bazzar/street markets. Tintin shop.
- Lots of things still closed. Apparently most businesses open only ~10am.
- Wandered to Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum. 5 levels.
- Ground: Hall with statue, dragon mural. Monks & chant, people follow at seats, with books. Schedule indicates constant chanting throughout most of the day? Donate $1, light incense.
- Mezzanine: Galley of Singaporean Bhuddist leaders. Can see down into main floor. Reed blinds give some privacy. Hear chanting loudly. Ancestor room with lots of golden tablets.
- 2nd: Gift shop & small gallery. Seems to be about the temple.
- Strange lack of time on signs & info boards.
- 3rd: Museum. Story of Buddah & future Buddah. Well done. Nice artefacts. Small area with small spuerical relics of different sizes, colours & opacity. From different parts of Buddah. 4 brain relic colours: red, blue, green, clear. Each “pile” of relics in a small container, drop-shaped void in middle, illuminated by small light. No photos. Very impressed, donate $2 more.
- 4th: Viewing room for Bhudda tooth relic. Can’t see very up close, looks like a piece of bone. Beautiful gold floor tiles, stupa, intracate lamps.
- 5th: Rooftop garden & wals of small Buddhas lighted by small lamp (LED?). For sponsorship. In middle, a pagoda with world’s largest (supposed) dharma wheel. Quite hard to turn, bell rings with each turn. Wood handle ring for turning.
- Visited in order: 1->4->3->2->m->5.
- Continue to Sri Mariamman Temple. Typical Hindu temple. Oldest in Singapore? Monks blessing people inside. Candele, water, etc.
- walk by Canadian embassy. Just flag, otherwise unremarkable office bld.
- Continue on & had early lunch at Market St. Food Centre. Hungry due to jet lag. Sliced fish noodle soup. A bit bland but OK with the pickled hot peppers that seem to be a ubiquitous. Hot & humid. Sweat when outside. Soaking wet. See others in collared shirts, dress pants & shoes. How are they not soaking in sweat?
- Beautiful modern buildings. Gold patterned facade & skybridges.
- Try walk towards Marina Bay, walked into Lau Pa Sat. Should have ate here! So many food stalls. Had sugar cane juice at beverage stall. Notice many food courts have fruit stalls, were you can buy prepared, cut fruit in cup or on stick.
- A few small malls in area. Malls are everywhere.
- Continue to Marina Bay Link complex. Biggest complex I’ve seen in years. (NZ, Aus, etc.).
- Walk in underground mall to cool down & cross street.
- Nice view of Marina Bay Sands & durian bld. in distance. Large sun shelters with fans. Best fan i saw here in the fan with two small fans rotating on central arm.
- Cool modern lotus-like Art Science Museum.
- Here to Merlion: Lots of tourists, take each other’s puotos. From many countries.
- Walk through Marina Bay Sands mall. Underground river in mall. The oculus raincatcher & fountain. View of Merlion. Casino, separate entrance for Singaporean & foreigners. (Pay reasons since Singaporeans are charged for gambling?)
- A bit of rain.
- Mall not yet connected to hotel. Cross road. See tree-lined skybridge (how to get to?).
- Hotel lobby extremely impressive. Chamber orchestra playing. Restaurants & bars.
- $20 for skypark access (no pool access). South(?) gardens also only for guests.
- 1st impression: see chat is hundreds of cargo ships parked in water. Huge construction project below. Matt’s mom: Gardens. Large blds to “attract people.”
- Nice view of Singapore, large docks, JB & some islands, cool buildings.
- View of pool (blocked by guarded cordon, only for hotel guests.). Hotel guests wandering around. Jacuzzi with “hotel guest only” signs.
- Can only access ~1/2 of length of sky park. Bar & restaurant available.
- Walk to Marina Bay & around malls a bit. Didn’t see the “Helix.” Should have taken that rather than read bridge. Nice, but nothing spectacular.
- Found way to durian buildings.
- Walk to Merlion Park. A bit tacky, amazing amount of tourists. Standard pose appears to be spitting or catching the water with mouth.
- Eat at Lau Pa Sat. Pig organ soup & rice noodle thing: only <$4. The rose water drink.
- Have drink at small tent bar/restaurant by river. $3 happy hour Anchor’s. Enjoy warm glow of sunset.
- Going to an interesting part on map, came across Central & Clarke Quay. Stalls set up on pedestrian bridge across and along river for the food festival, but now closed.
- Clarke Quay is very cool, trendy-looking shopping area. Large vent decorations, fountains.
- Walk through Fort Canning Park. Nice walkways & bridges. Nice views of city (on both sides). People exercising. Lighthouse. Try to find reservoir, but is now covered.
- Find way to street through a very fancy restaurant.
- Getting very tired due to walking and jet lag. Struggle with left foot rubbing on flip-flop. No issue on right foot, but had to switch to shoes for a week.
- Pic of “no durian” sign on subway.
- Explore the malls of Orchard Street. The presidential palace/residence?
- Ate at Food Republic at Orchard Central(?). Lots of shopping centres with Orchard in its name.
- Very large shopping centres, 7-8 stories. Skybridges with restaurants, busy, etc.
- Wander back ~10:pm. Matt get back late due to some Bible study group. Talk to Matt & mom. Sleep ~ midnight.
- Wake up just after 7am. Realise Matt already gone.
- Prepare for day, leave at same time as parents & brother (Luke).
- Breakfast: $2 for noodles, paid by them. Dropped off at St. Andrew’s Cathedral, where dad was picking something up.
- Discuss how to get to Malacca & if JB interesting. Family all say JB is a dirtier, less safe version of Singapore. Apparently a common opinion, including president.
- Talk about water issues with Malaysia. Threaten to cut off water. Singapore treats & sells back water. Dam rivers to creat giant reservoir. No junk boats there anymore.
- Story about her meeting a random friend in Mississauga. Sick, doctor not sure what’s wrong. Gave her book of religious stories about women. She feel something while reading the book. Next time she see doctor, she is well.
- Not sure when the topics were discussed: talk to mom a lot the 1st 2 nights,
- Brother: Luke, went to U. Penn on the gov. scholarship. Just “released” from being “bonded” for 6 years.
- Quick look at cathedral. Metal gate in front of main entrance & no photo in nave. Nothing extremely worth mentioning. So didn’t go in. Looked inside.
- Walk by city hall & parliament. Old parliament now a complex that includes a restaurant.
- Supreme court & city hall appear bigger than parliament.
- See the landmark buildings of Singapore, including the new Marina Bay.
- Walk to by the river. Cool old bridge. Close view of the skyscrapers. One Raffles Space has beautiful angular quality.
- Cool area of small restaurants & bars.
- Walk along New Bridge Road to Chinatown. Big yellow prominant-looking building.
- Nice area like a bazzar/street markets. Tintin shop.
- Lots of things still closed. Apparently most businesses open only ~10am.
- Wandered to Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum. 5 levels.
- Ground: Hall with statue, dragon mural. Monks & chant, people follow at seats, with books. Schedule indicates constant chanting throughout most of the day? Donate $1, light incense.
- Mezzanine: Galley of Singaporean Bhuddist leaders. Can see down into main floor. Reed blinds give some privacy. Hear chanting loudly. Ancestor room with lots of golden tablets.
- 2nd: Gift shop & small gallery. Seems to be about the temple.
- Strange lack of time on signs & info boards.
- 3rd: Museum. Story of Buddah & future Buddah. Well done. Nice artefacts. Small area with small spuerical relics of different sizes, colours & opacity. From different parts of Buddah. 4 brain relic colours: red, blue, green, clear. Each “pile” of relics in a small container, drop-shaped void in middle, illuminated by small light. No photos. Very impressed, donate $2 more.
- 4th: Viewing room for Bhudda tooth relic. Can’t see very up close, looks like a piece of bone. Beautiful gold floor tiles, stupa, intracate lamps.
- 5th: Rooftop garden & wals of small Buddhas lighted by small lamp (LED?). For sponsorship. In middle, a pagoda with world’s largest (supposed) dharma wheel. Quite hard to turn, bell rings with each turn. Wood handle ring for turning.
- Visited in order: 1->4->3->2->m->5.
- Continue to Sri Mariamman Temple. Typical Hindu temple. Oldest in Singapore? Monks blessing people inside. Candele, water, etc.
- walk by Canadian embassy. Just flag, otherwise unremarkable office bld.
- Continue on & had early lunch at Market St. Food Centre. Hungry due to jet lag. Sliced fish noodle soup. A bit bland but OK with the pickled hot peppers that seem to be a ubiquitous. Hot & humid. Sweat when outside. Soaking wet. See others in collared shirts, dress pants & shoes. How are they not soaking in sweat?
- Beautiful modern buildings. Gold patterned facade & skybridges.
- Try walk towards Marina Bay, walked into Lau Pa Sat. Should have ate here! So many food stalls. Had sugar cane juice at beverage stall. Notice many food courts have fruit stalls, were you can buy prepared, cut fruit in cup or on stick.
- A few small malls in area. Malls are everywhere.
- Continue to Marina Bay Link complex. Biggest complex I’ve seen in years. (NZ, Aus, etc.).
- Walk in underground mall to cool down & cross street.
- Nice view of Marina Bay Sands & durian bld. in distance. Large sun shelters with fans. Best fan i saw here in the fan with two small fans rotating on central arm.
- Cool modern lotus-like Art Science Museum.
- Here to Merlion: Lots of tourists, take each other’s puotos. From many countries.
- Walk through Marina Bay Sands mall. Underground river in mall. The oculus raincatcher & fountain. View of Merlion. Casino, separate entrance for Singaporean & foreigners. (Pay reasons since Singaporeans are charged for gambling?)
- A bit of rain.
- Mall not yet connected to hotel. Cross road. See tree-lined skybridge (how to get to?).
- Hotel lobby extremely impressive. Chamber orchestra playing. Restaurants & bars.
- $20 for skypark access (no pool access). South(?) gardens also only for guests.
- 1st impression: see chat is hundreds of cargo ships parked in water. Huge construction project below. Matt’s mom: Gardens. Large blds to “attract people.”
- Nice view of Singapore, large docks, JB & some islands, cool buildings.
- View of pool (blocked by guarded cordon, only for hotel guests.). Hotel guests wandering around. Jacuzzi with “hotel guest only” signs.
- Can only access ~1/2 of length of sky park. Bar & restaurant available.
- Walk to Marina Bay & around malls a bit. Didn’t see the “Helix.” Should have taken that rather than read bridge. Nice, but nothing spectacular.
- Found way to durian buildings.
- Walk to Merlion Park. A bit tacky, amazing amount of tourists. Standard pose appears to be spitting or catching the water with mouth.
- Eat at Lau Pa Sat. Pig organ soup & rice noodle thing: only <$4. The rose water drink.
- Have drink at small tent bar/restaurant by river. $3 happy hour Anchor’s. Enjoy warm glow of sunset.
- Going to an interesting part on map, came across Central & Clarke Quay. Stalls set up on pedestrian bridge across and along river for the food festival, but now closed.
- Clarke Quay is very cool, trendy-looking shopping area. Large vent decorations, fountains.
- Walk through Fort Canning Park. Nice walkways & bridges. Nice views of city (on both sides). People exercising. Lighthouse. Try to find reservoir, but is now covered.
- Find way to street through a very fancy restaurant.
- Getting very tired due to walking and jet lag. Struggle with left foot rubbing on flip-flop. No issue on right foot, but had to switch to shoes for a week.
- Pic of “no durian” sign on subway.
- Explore the malls of Orchard Street. The presidential palace/residence?
- Ate at Food Republic at Orchard Central(?). Lots of shopping centres with Orchard in its name.
- Very large shopping centres, 7-8 stories. Skybridges with restaurants, busy, etc.
- Wander back ~10:pm. Matt get back late due to some Bible study group. Talk to Matt & mom. Sleep ~ midnight.
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 61
Day 61: (13 July 2011):
- Wake up with Logan. Pack. Longish wait for Logan, leave ~8:20 am.
- Say bye to Logan on bus. Catch airport bus. Arrive ~9:30, slow traffic. Take pictures of Singapore on sign.
- BK for breakfast, appropriate pre-flight food. Realise maybe should have had pie.
- only ~5-10 min before boarding when get to gate. Big plane (A330). Glad I changed seat to an aisle seat. Originally assigned a middle seat.
- A bit rainy on take off. People on flight clearly excited. A few clap/cheer on landing. Some girls seem not to have flown before, talk about ear, freak out in bumps. the guy sitting besides me seems not to be too happy. Argintinean.
- Flew past Brisbane, between Alice Springs & Darwin, then up through Indonesia. Close to Bali, etc. Gretty excited to see map in that area, haven’t flown there before. Excited to cross equator.
- Plane is very old-style: A few drop-down screens & old movies.
- Nap, DS, write, read, watch TV. Kept myself pretty entertained for 11 hours.
- Things expensive on board. water $6, I pre-bought package for $35. Argintineas bought meal & soft drink: $26. I had that plus a small meal & another soft drink before landing.
- Fly over outback, feel strange: haven’t flown over land for so long in a while.
- Argentinean keep shades down. At landing, excited to see SE Asia land for first time.
- Cross over rivers (flowing backwards - due to tide?) then see JB & Singapore in distance as we land.
- Free internet before immigration, but decide go through first.
- Bathroom sign that leads long way.
- Change at Subway, call Matt: only 10c for 3 min call.
- Find train to city. Airport way out classes Auckland in size & features.
- MTR station, person help me buy ticket, then asks me to fill out survey on her performance.
- Station is big & modern, outclasses Auckland again.
- Trains are very modern & clean. Haven’t been on subway or modern transit trains in so long. More people than expected on train. Safety barriers at stations. Sometimes not fully lined up.
- Transfer at Tanah Mera & City Hall. Reach Dhoby Ghaut. A bit lost, but eventually found the station control after almost finding it & going back.
- Found Matt easily. Walk around long way to home.
- Matt teaches HS history.
- Very warm & humid. Sweat on short walk at night.
- Notice many CS hosts here live with family. Apparently ~80% of Singaporeans live in government subsidised apts, & single men do not get apts of their own until 35yo. Promote family & people marrying & having kids. Common saying that Singaporeans propose by asking gf to apply for an apt. together.
- Impression of Singapore is very modern & clean.
- Grandma is quite. Mom is friendly & talkative. Have dinner there, IKEA food & homemade food. Mom from Philippines.
- Father came back ~9-10. Church minister. Originally from Fujian (or just family from there?). Many Chinese here from Fujian & other South China places.
- Sleep ~11:15pm. He said he sleep 11-12, but I realised I might have been keeping him up. I would gladly have gone to sleep earlier due to 4hr time difference from Akl.
- Sleep: open windows, fan, no covers. On a roll-out bed from under Matt’s bed.
- Wake up only a few brief times during the night & maybe once with knock on door or Matt leaving.
- Wake up with Logan. Pack. Longish wait for Logan, leave ~8:20 am.
- Say bye to Logan on bus. Catch airport bus. Arrive ~9:30, slow traffic. Take pictures of Singapore on sign.
- BK for breakfast, appropriate pre-flight food. Realise maybe should have had pie.
- only ~5-10 min before boarding when get to gate. Big plane (A330). Glad I changed seat to an aisle seat. Originally assigned a middle seat.
- A bit rainy on take off. People on flight clearly excited. A few clap/cheer on landing. Some girls seem not to have flown before, talk about ear, freak out in bumps. the guy sitting besides me seems not to be too happy. Argintinean.
- Flew past Brisbane, between Alice Springs & Darwin, then up through Indonesia. Close to Bali, etc. Gretty excited to see map in that area, haven’t flown there before. Excited to cross equator.
- Plane is very old-style: A few drop-down screens & old movies.
- Nap, DS, write, read, watch TV. Kept myself pretty entertained for 11 hours.
- Things expensive on board. water $6, I pre-bought package for $35. Argintineas bought meal & soft drink: $26. I had that plus a small meal & another soft drink before landing.
- Fly over outback, feel strange: haven’t flown over land for so long in a while.
- Argentinean keep shades down. At landing, excited to see SE Asia land for first time.
- Cross over rivers (flowing backwards - due to tide?) then see JB & Singapore in distance as we land.
- Free internet before immigration, but decide go through first.
- Bathroom sign that leads long way.
- Change at Subway, call Matt: only 10c for 3 min call.
- Find train to city. Airport way out classes Auckland in size & features.
- MTR station, person help me buy ticket, then asks me to fill out survey on her performance.
- Station is big & modern, outclasses Auckland again.
- Trains are very modern & clean. Haven’t been on subway or modern transit trains in so long. More people than expected on train. Safety barriers at stations. Sometimes not fully lined up.
- Transfer at Tanah Mera & City Hall. Reach Dhoby Ghaut. A bit lost, but eventually found the station control after almost finding it & going back.
- Found Matt easily. Walk around long way to home.
- Matt teaches HS history.
- Very warm & humid. Sweat on short walk at night.
- Notice many CS hosts here live with family. Apparently ~80% of Singaporeans live in government subsidised apts, & single men do not get apts of their own until 35yo. Promote family & people marrying & having kids. Common saying that Singaporeans propose by asking gf to apply for an apt. together.
- Impression of Singapore is very modern & clean.
- Grandma is quite. Mom is friendly & talkative. Have dinner there, IKEA food & homemade food. Mom from Philippines.
- Father came back ~9-10. Church minister. Originally from Fujian (or just family from there?). Many Chinese here from Fujian & other South China places.
- Sleep ~11:15pm. He said he sleep 11-12, but I realised I might have been keeping him up. I would gladly have gone to sleep earlier due to 4hr time difference from Akl.
- Sleep: open windows, fan, no covers. On a roll-out bed from under Matt’s bed.
- Wake up only a few brief times during the night & maybe once with knock on door or Matt leaving.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 60
Day 60: (12 July 2011):
- Wake up after Logan has shower. Tired but need to be at school for 10-12 pickup of my boxes.
- Get there ~9-9:30. Final re-packing. change belt & jeans.
- Pantless in office, James stare at me & didn’t notice. Others walk in & crack up. Porter: “classic Markli.”
- Write while wait for courier.
- Courier arrive 12. Some students heading down gives us a hand. Loaded 11 items into large truck.
- See GD work of one group. Never get to go back to see more & other group.
- Lunch with Steffan @ Queen’s Ferry. Monteith’s Black & fish & chips.
- Buy souveniers from From N to Z. The people recognize me as repeat visitor, one recognises me from CS too. the person who helped me pick out & explain my hei matau.
- Final preparing of files, copy, etc. Pack computer, etc.
- Had to use express courier due to computer battery. Maybe I should have just put battery in my pack. $230 (1/2 cost of shipping my boxes! (which turned out to be much more with customs and warehouse costs), cheap tracked is $150 % cheapest in $110. To ship battery alone is $70-$80, so just bite the bullet & spend $240 total on shipping & packing materials.
- Didn’t get to say bye to staff & students. A few students see me & say bye to me before I left.
- O’Carroll’s: a few staff meet me there. Finish Guiness card: only one last one left, free. Fill out form. Supposedly takes a long time to hear back, but I should get a T-shirt. They send the stickers for my name on the Guiness board too! (Got an e-mail welcoming me to the Guiness club a while after I get to SF).
- Finish off night drinking with Steffan @ Cassette 9.
- No steak, Steffan has to go home for dinner.
- Cab: I get dropped @ Pan Asia ~ 9:40. Have green curry.
- I sleep ~1am. Logan work until 4am.
- Get e-mail saying 10 packages, just under 1 cubic m. I e-mail back asking them to count again, as should be 11 items.
- Wake up after Logan has shower. Tired but need to be at school for 10-12 pickup of my boxes.
- Get there ~9-9:30. Final re-packing. change belt & jeans.
- Pantless in office, James stare at me & didn’t notice. Others walk in & crack up. Porter: “classic Markli.”
- Write while wait for courier.
- Courier arrive 12. Some students heading down gives us a hand. Loaded 11 items into large truck.
- See GD work of one group. Never get to go back to see more & other group.
- Lunch with Steffan @ Queen’s Ferry. Monteith’s Black & fish & chips.
- Buy souveniers from From N to Z. The people recognize me as repeat visitor, one recognises me from CS too. the person who helped me pick out & explain my hei matau.
- Final preparing of files, copy, etc. Pack computer, etc.
- Had to use express courier due to computer battery. Maybe I should have just put battery in my pack. $230 (1/2 cost of shipping my boxes! (which turned out to be much more with customs and warehouse costs), cheap tracked is $150 % cheapest in $110. To ship battery alone is $70-$80, so just bite the bullet & spend $240 total on shipping & packing materials.
- Didn’t get to say bye to staff & students. A few students see me & say bye to me before I left.
- O’Carroll’s: a few staff meet me there. Finish Guiness card: only one last one left, free. Fill out form. Supposedly takes a long time to hear back, but I should get a T-shirt. They send the stickers for my name on the Guiness board too! (Got an e-mail welcoming me to the Guiness club a while after I get to SF).
- Finish off night drinking with Steffan @ Cassette 9.
- No steak, Steffan has to go home for dinner.
- Cab: I get dropped @ Pan Asia ~ 9:40. Have green curry.
- I sleep ~1am. Logan work until 4am.
- Get e-mail saying 10 packages, just under 1 cubic m. I e-mail back asking them to count again, as should be 11 items.
Monday, July 11, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 59
Day 59: (11 July 2011):
- Wake up along with Logan. Last bit of major organise, research online.
- Walk to town through domain, leave ~11:30. Muddy. Find way to town, grab Steffan for lunch. Mitchell: I look really tanned. Say hi to students. Fill perscription.
- Too much food @ Daikoku curry w/ takoyaki w/ takowasa.
- Prepare boxes & print flight info until 5pm. Get ID badge & ask for storage key: New receptionist to tech: student wants... Steffan tells her I’m ex-staff.
- Grab a drink @ Bluestone Room w/ Steffan & Porter. Tired.
- Internet/chat/write, etc. @ Logan’s. Get Pad Thai at Pan Asian ~9:30, still not hungry due to giant lunch, but figure need to have dinner.
- I sleep ~1am. Logan works on painting for longer. Logan impressed I sleep with him working right there.
- Wake up along with Logan. Last bit of major organise, research online.
- Walk to town through domain, leave ~11:30. Muddy. Find way to town, grab Steffan for lunch. Mitchell: I look really tanned. Say hi to students. Fill perscription.
- Too much food @ Daikoku curry w/ takoyaki w/ takowasa.
- Prepare boxes & print flight info until 5pm. Get ID badge & ask for storage key: New receptionist to tech: student wants... Steffan tells her I’m ex-staff.
- Grab a drink @ Bluestone Room w/ Steffan & Porter. Tired.
- Internet/chat/write, etc. @ Logan’s. Get Pad Thai at Pan Asian ~9:30, still not hungry due to giant lunch, but figure need to have dinner.
- I sleep ~1am. Logan works on painting for longer. Logan impressed I sleep with him working right there.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 58
Day 58: (10 July 2011):
- Logan wake up ~9am. Good for me since I don’t sleep in. Not best, but OK weather.
- Lots of organising on Internet. Talk with Felix about SE Asia trip.
- Head off to museum late morning/noon. Very close to Logan’s.
- Smaller & less kid-centric than Te Papa. Nice items, but starting to get enough of South Pacific artifacts. Whare & Wharenui nice.
- Went to 1:30 Maori cultural performance. Ask where we all from, greet with our language. Pretend scared when meet someone from Aus.
- Informal, jokes. Good intro to all Maori dances, songs.
- The Maori love song (Pokarekare Ana, which I decided to learn the words to after the trip). Of course, Haka.
- Grab lunch after finish ground floor.
- 2nd floor: war memorials, etc. “Let this panel never be filled.” On an unfilled wall of names for fallen soldiers.
- Rock chimes.
- Finish on level 1. Some live animals/insects/fish. Packhorse cray.
- Volcano eruption simulation room.
- Leave museum ~4:50pm.
- More Internet work.
- Logan go to concert, so have place all to myself.
- Dinner: Found Pan Asian restaurant close by, red curry.
- Logan wake up ~9am. Good for me since I don’t sleep in. Not best, but OK weather.
- Lots of organising on Internet. Talk with Felix about SE Asia trip.
- Head off to museum late morning/noon. Very close to Logan’s.
- Smaller & less kid-centric than Te Papa. Nice items, but starting to get enough of South Pacific artifacts. Whare & Wharenui nice.
- Went to 1:30 Maori cultural performance. Ask where we all from, greet with our language. Pretend scared when meet someone from Aus.
- Informal, jokes. Good intro to all Maori dances, songs.
- The Maori love song (Pokarekare Ana, which I decided to learn the words to after the trip). Of course, Haka.
- Grab lunch after finish ground floor.
- 2nd floor: war memorials, etc. “Let this panel never be filled.” On an unfilled wall of names for fallen soldiers.
- Rock chimes.
- Finish on level 1. Some live animals/insects/fish. Packhorse cray.
- Volcano eruption simulation room.
- Leave museum ~4:50pm.
- More Internet work.
- Logan go to concert, so have place all to myself.
- Dinner: Found Pan Asian restaurant close by, red curry.
Saturday, July 9, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 57
Day 57: (9 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Wake up and realise completely forgot about market. Wanted to see (Ed?) the Palagi who sells fridge magnets.
- Breakfast & coffee @ Crazy Uga. Coffee there is good.
- Check with tourism & police: no one turned in phone.
- Drop by market, magnets not there, but tourism office sold postcard-magnets.
- Spend all morning studying the Singapore/Malaysia/Brunei LP from 2001.
- Pack, say bye & leave ~ 12:30.
- Post cards. Alexa not make 10am cutoff.
- Lots of commotion, trucks & cars going to port. Ship is expected to arrive today.
- Island expected to be busier next week: 220 arrivals & 160 departures on flight.
- Baggage confusion at airport. No problem with water through security.
- Long wait as departures have to be in “holding pen” before plane arrives.
- Hang out with the 4 girls. Plane materialises out of nowhere.
- Thank you card signed by ???. Vouchers for next visit.
- Flight back: “Shortland Street” is a listed genre (as well as rugby on some flights).
- Ate dinner @ Mentatz ramen.
- Back to Logan’s. Gave him a fright when he comes in as forgot me coming, I don’t have phone to contact.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
- Wake up and realise completely forgot about market. Wanted to see (Ed?) the Palagi who sells fridge magnets.
- Breakfast & coffee @ Crazy Uga. Coffee there is good.
- Check with tourism & police: no one turned in phone.
- Drop by market, magnets not there, but tourism office sold postcard-magnets.
- Spend all morning studying the Singapore/Malaysia/Brunei LP from 2001.
- Pack, say bye & leave ~ 12:30.
- Post cards. Alexa not make 10am cutoff.
- Lots of commotion, trucks & cars going to port. Ship is expected to arrive today.
- Island expected to be busier next week: 220 arrivals & 160 departures on flight.
- Baggage confusion at airport. No problem with water through security.
- Long wait as departures have to be in “holding pen” before plane arrives.
- Hang out with the 4 girls. Plane materialises out of nowhere.
- Thank you card signed by ???. Vouchers for next visit.
- Flight back: “Shortland Street” is a listed genre (as well as rugby on some flights).
- Ate dinner @ Mentatz ramen.
- Back to Logan’s. Gave him a fright when he comes in as forgot me coming, I don’t have phone to contact.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
Friday, July 8, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 56
Day 56: (8 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Go to Mark Cross gallery. Ahi didn’t charge for post card.
- Rent car with Alexa. Drive to east coast. Took Liku rd. instead of Hapuku, so came across Vaikona first. Was expecting Togo. Return bike.
- Hear from Ira trail has been improved & is possible to do walk without guide, just don’t go into the caves. Very careful, as people have been lost for days before. Also the LP story of author getting lost.
- Careful not to park directly under coconut tree.
- Long trail, some markers in vital areas. Almost lost trail a few times. I look back from time to time to remember, Alexa break luku leaves to mark. Use fern leaf to fend off spider webs. Lots of them. By return, some webs almost fully rebuilt.
- Forest, then climb over many sharp coral rocks. Very tight section under pandanus roots. Like a tunnel. Mostly between rocks, short overgrown “outside” section.
- Near cave, a few sudden dropoffs & ends of “fake trails” into chasm.
- Random sign warning of falling rocks in cave.
- Willy does tours here, but he’s busy with fishing these days (asked last night), which he will always prefer. Apparantly he only started charging for tours 1 or 2 years ago. Cool natural coral spiral staricase.
- Nest of baby spiders, almost run into on way back.
- Climb into cave. Alexa stay, I go down a bit using rope. Warning about a point past which is nearly impossible to return. With Willy, can do all the way down, & using torch, can swim through caves to near ocean.
- Concerned about rope, but not very frayed, so OK. Sharp coral rocks a concern.
- Descended to ledge, see blue pool surrounded by green plants & ferns. Tranquil, with dripping water.
- Sloping cave wall. Large chunks of cave ceiling overturned on ground.
- Found much easier way up along the ledge a bit when climb back up.
- Trail seem t o continue, possibly to coral spires, but Alexa say Togo similar, so didn’t go. Enough of rough track. Supposedly only difference is that you can walk around the spires at Vaikona, only one track at Togo.
- Slip, stub toe on coral rock. Small cut & crack in nail.
- Snack of coconut bread & spreads.
- Continue to Togo. Drove past the 2 old ladies in car going in opposite direction.
- Steep stair track. Names written in concrete. “cute” step.
- Spires under a cliff. Ocean past that. Alexa says greener than a few fears ago. Spires unlike anything I’ve seen before. Amazing & beautiful. What formed the spires?
- Togo Chasm: chasm in the spires, hidden quite well other than the palm tops.
- Before chasm; Nice place to watch the waves crash below. Reddish rocks. Rock bridge.
- Tall wood ladder down to sand & palm trees.
- Climb over rocks (very sharp), stagnant pool in back. Narrow chasm with line of palms. A few slimy things that look like crushed slugs on the rocks. Some palm debris.
- Small cave by ladder. wade through (sea) water. Climb over rocks, reach a cave with some openings on roof. Main opening across from stone arch. Large waves cause water to rush into cave & to base of our rocks. Loud roaring. Cannon-fire sounds when water spurt through rock to right, close to us.
- Water coming in cave reminds me of the Universal Studios (Earthquake?) ride.
- Photos with tripod on return. Look for the classic shot spot. See a ridge along coral rocks by path, surprisingly well formed natural path, but steep drop-offs along both sides. Great view of chasm & pinnacles/cliffs/ocean.
- Decide Niue is the worst place to trip & fall.
Check order of visit for notes below:
- Go to Tamakautoga for swim. Nice beach (rough sand), but not much snorkelling. Sit & watch ocean for a while. Alexa & Ira found skinny-dippers here. See camoflauged flounder, pink rock with spots. Left after get camera. Hunting small fish that was around.
- Stop at sign that says Pofitu. Nice seclued beach. Steep steps. No railings on bottom set. Built on overhang cliff.
End check order section.
- Israel Mart for ice cream (NZ). Guy has heavy Israeli accent. No smoked fish or fresh today. Will smoke fish w/ honey & lime next day. Bought “Pacific” corned beef. “Best kind.” According to a few. Dissappointed as Made in Aus. “to NZ recipe.”
- Alexa ask $60 for car, steep, since car is $52/day, petrol can’t be that much! But she seems to not realise how much she ask for, & want to support, so give $60. Or maybe there was something I didn't understand?
- Jim call me down for drink when see me through window in kitchen. Didn’t get a chance to join.
- Made the poumere seeds. A bit peanutty. According to Ira, huhu grubs taste a bit like peanut butter.
- Chat & drink with people until ~1am, since last night. Ira gave dinner made from leftovers: taro, etc, real corned beef. Meat. I give Alexa & Ira/Brian the leftover food I had. Didn’t get to eat the Pacific canned beef.
- Alexa stay up until 3am.
- Feel sick, drink too much. Threw up a bit. In 3 drinking sessions, drank well over 1 bttl (1L bottles?) of liquor. Nothing to do at night in Niue other than drink.
- Picture of Niue Yatch club sign. No Yatchs in club. Lucy the dog is in it.
- Brian drink a lot. Story about how Alexa had to drive 1st backpackers to night flight: Brian drunk enough to fall down steps.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
- Go to Mark Cross gallery. Ahi didn’t charge for post card.
- Rent car with Alexa. Drive to east coast. Took Liku rd. instead of Hapuku, so came across Vaikona first. Was expecting Togo. Return bike.
- Hear from Ira trail has been improved & is possible to do walk without guide, just don’t go into the caves. Very careful, as people have been lost for days before. Also the LP story of author getting lost.
- Careful not to park directly under coconut tree.
- Long trail, some markers in vital areas. Almost lost trail a few times. I look back from time to time to remember, Alexa break luku leaves to mark. Use fern leaf to fend off spider webs. Lots of them. By return, some webs almost fully rebuilt.
- Forest, then climb over many sharp coral rocks. Very tight section under pandanus roots. Like a tunnel. Mostly between rocks, short overgrown “outside” section.
- Near cave, a few sudden dropoffs & ends of “fake trails” into chasm.
- Random sign warning of falling rocks in cave.
- Willy does tours here, but he’s busy with fishing these days (asked last night), which he will always prefer. Apparantly he only started charging for tours 1 or 2 years ago. Cool natural coral spiral staricase.
- Nest of baby spiders, almost run into on way back.
- Climb into cave. Alexa stay, I go down a bit using rope. Warning about a point past which is nearly impossible to return. With Willy, can do all the way down, & using torch, can swim through caves to near ocean.
- Concerned about rope, but not very frayed, so OK. Sharp coral rocks a concern.
- Descended to ledge, see blue pool surrounded by green plants & ferns. Tranquil, with dripping water.
- Sloping cave wall. Large chunks of cave ceiling overturned on ground.
- Found much easier way up along the ledge a bit when climb back up.
- Trail seem t o continue, possibly to coral spires, but Alexa say Togo similar, so didn’t go. Enough of rough track. Supposedly only difference is that you can walk around the spires at Vaikona, only one track at Togo.
- Slip, stub toe on coral rock. Small cut & crack in nail.
- Snack of coconut bread & spreads.
- Continue to Togo. Drove past the 2 old ladies in car going in opposite direction.
- Steep stair track. Names written in concrete. “cute” step.
- Spires under a cliff. Ocean past that. Alexa says greener than a few fears ago. Spires unlike anything I’ve seen before. Amazing & beautiful. What formed the spires?
- Togo Chasm: chasm in the spires, hidden quite well other than the palm tops.
- Before chasm; Nice place to watch the waves crash below. Reddish rocks. Rock bridge.
- Tall wood ladder down to sand & palm trees.
- Climb over rocks (very sharp), stagnant pool in back. Narrow chasm with line of palms. A few slimy things that look like crushed slugs on the rocks. Some palm debris.
- Small cave by ladder. wade through (sea) water. Climb over rocks, reach a cave with some openings on roof. Main opening across from stone arch. Large waves cause water to rush into cave & to base of our rocks. Loud roaring. Cannon-fire sounds when water spurt through rock to right, close to us.
- Water coming in cave reminds me of the Universal Studios (Earthquake?) ride.
- Photos with tripod on return. Look for the classic shot spot. See a ridge along coral rocks by path, surprisingly well formed natural path, but steep drop-offs along both sides. Great view of chasm & pinnacles/cliffs/ocean.
- Decide Niue is the worst place to trip & fall.
Check order of visit for notes below:
- Go to Tamakautoga for swim. Nice beach (rough sand), but not much snorkelling. Sit & watch ocean for a while. Alexa & Ira found skinny-dippers here. See camoflauged flounder, pink rock with spots. Left after get camera. Hunting small fish that was around.
- Stop at sign that says Pofitu. Nice seclued beach. Steep steps. No railings on bottom set. Built on overhang cliff.
End check order section.
- Israel Mart for ice cream (NZ). Guy has heavy Israeli accent. No smoked fish or fresh today. Will smoke fish w/ honey & lime next day. Bought “Pacific” corned beef. “Best kind.” According to a few. Dissappointed as Made in Aus. “to NZ recipe.”
- Alexa ask $60 for car, steep, since car is $52/day, petrol can’t be that much! But she seems to not realise how much she ask for, & want to support, so give $60. Or maybe there was something I didn't understand?
- Jim call me down for drink when see me through window in kitchen. Didn’t get a chance to join.
- Made the poumere seeds. A bit peanutty. According to Ira, huhu grubs taste a bit like peanut butter.
- Chat & drink with people until ~1am, since last night. Ira gave dinner made from leftovers: taro, etc, real corned beef. Meat. I give Alexa & Ira/Brian the leftover food I had. Didn’t get to eat the Pacific canned beef.
- Alexa stay up until 3am.
- Feel sick, drink too much. Threw up a bit. In 3 drinking sessions, drank well over 1 bttl (1L bottles?) of liquor. Nothing to do at night in Niue other than drink.
- Picture of Niue Yatch club sign. No Yatchs in club. Lucy the dog is in it.
- Brian drink a lot. Story about how Alexa had to drive 1st backpackers to night flight: Brian drunk enough to fall down steps.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
Thursday, July 7, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 55
Day 55: (7 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Woke up to get ready for forest walk @ 8:30am. Asked Alexa to knock to wake me up, but I had to knock on her door to check she is awake.
- Weather a bit cloudy. Some big clouds. Apparently rain on other side of island.
- Jack asked to do tour by tourism office when prev. guy stopped. prev guy didn’t wear shoes. How is this possible on sharp coral?
- Story about hotel guy do tour, give made-up names, etc.
- Quick stop @ Matavai to pick up 4 others.
- Drive through the grave road portion to Havalu. Rain, puddles on road.
- Happy to see forest floor is only moist. The water drains quickly through porous rocks & caves, into the ocean. This is why there are no rivers on Niue, but plenty of springs. Niue also sits on a giant “water lens” and some say it’s shaped like a mushroom. Not sure is true.
- Jack stop & explain things & tell stories every few steps.
- Nice hearing rain on leaves. A few heavy spurts, but cleared up later.
- Highlights: “tiwali” tree roots “twisted tree.” A few big trees. Banyan like trees. Some caves. Jack tell us how to catch uga. No uga today, but Kololi girls said jack pulled out an uga for them on their tour.
- Jack’s story about a person getting sick & die, even NZ hospital can’t find what’s wrong. Hunting strangely big uga at “his secret spot,” people suspect he died breaking the tapu. Forest tapu beyond ancient walls. Apparently 2 tourists found wall, Willy doesn’t believe, so had them take him. Took entire day, but found the wall. Ira thankful for Jack’s stories & keeping tapu going. Say in Niue, legends are “stories,” where in Maori culture, ledgends are seen as chat has actually happened.
- The plant warriors use for their headdress & that turns to toffee/sweeter in the lu.
- Apparently many people have never been forest. Some have been lost & found.
- Taste water from vine: can just pour it out! Taste the new fern leaf.
- Strange fungus growing up trees & killing them. Ask Jack if this is new, he says he “thinks so” and he’s “never seen anything like it before.” I’m also concerned about the creeper vine in dump covering everything. Apparently someone brought it in as an ornamental plant (from NZ?) & it “expleded,” so the guy ripped it up & put it in the dump.
- Show us ebony. Says Niuean ebony is harder & blacker than other kinds. Only trees growing on rocks develop the black core.
- Say Niuean people different. There is a seed that Niueans can eat but others will get sick. Also say Niueans immune to asbestos since they work with it and no one get sick from it yet. Others make impressed sounds, but this is just statistics & due to small sample size.
- Black army ants bite some people while in forest. Apparently very painful. Me careful to not stand on areas with ants after.
- Take us to see his studio. Give us bananas. Some people buy carvings. Both pendants & larger sculptures. Say now make mostly pendants since more tourists buy. Also, make only ebony now, since can’s sell other materials for as much, but same effort. A hairpin following natural root curve with a penis on one end. When someone ask for price, say was holding for someone (Some local), but it’s been a while, so sell it anyway. Forgot who. Say touched by millions at World Expo in SH, as he was there for Niue. Say lots of people at World Fair. Story from Brian about the Chinese guy we saw, live in Niue part time. Only Chinese (Other than Mr. Li who work at Matavai?), so gov. send him & his gf. But they broke up in SH, and gov. had to send someone else as the guy didn’t feel like doing the World Fair anymore.
- See the designs for Jack’s pendant displayed in case.
- Stone house: one of the oldest houses (live in by a missionary?).
- Go back too late for Alexa’s snorkelling trip. I would have asked to join too. Too bad for missing it, as there were 3 whales on that trip. Saw cool photos @ airport.
- Nap back from tour.
- Take quick bike ride to Tomb Point. Nice view, but much blocked by trees.
- Go to wharf. One of the familiar tourist families there for a swim. Nice view of rocky coastline. Easy access to other side of reef. Clear waters, see fish, wavering in waves.
- Go with Alexa to take photos of sunset at Utuko.
- Guy fishing or octopus hunting?
- Convinced myself to try a sea cucumber. Ira mentioned export market had been thought of. Some Niueans eat it, but they prefer the smaller kinds, more tender.
- Find & pick up, wash. Stuck on rock when placed there far a while. Lots of tiny suction cups on one side. Ask Willy on way back see him: he says he reckons it’s edible.
- Kill with boiling water: scrunch up then slowly releases. Guts clear & filled with sand. On advice of older ladies, threw guts to chicken: although maybe throw in wrong place. Ladies saw chickens eat dog turd the other day. Chickens eat everything.
- Sea cucumber skin thin & kind of looks like the dry ones from Chinese stores when curled.
- Add butter, wild ginger from forest & Jack’s tour (although tastes more like weird tumeric). Tough, tastes terrible, bitter, a tiny bit like sea squirt. Throw out. Pasta now just with tinned tuna from bread store, picked up earlier.
- Curious how the sea cucumbers from stores are so different. Species? Prep.?
- Start using fly spray & close window/doors. Apparently Ira loves fly spray, some bring for her from NZ. Less/no mosquitos. Sleep better.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
- Woke up to get ready for forest walk @ 8:30am. Asked Alexa to knock to wake me up, but I had to knock on her door to check she is awake.
- Weather a bit cloudy. Some big clouds. Apparently rain on other side of island.
- Jack asked to do tour by tourism office when prev. guy stopped. prev guy didn’t wear shoes. How is this possible on sharp coral?
- Story about hotel guy do tour, give made-up names, etc.
- Quick stop @ Matavai to pick up 4 others.
- Drive through the grave road portion to Havalu. Rain, puddles on road.
- Happy to see forest floor is only moist. The water drains quickly through porous rocks & caves, into the ocean. This is why there are no rivers on Niue, but plenty of springs. Niue also sits on a giant “water lens” and some say it’s shaped like a mushroom. Not sure is true.
- Jack stop & explain things & tell stories every few steps.
- Nice hearing rain on leaves. A few heavy spurts, but cleared up later.
- Highlights: “tiwali” tree roots “twisted tree.” A few big trees. Banyan like trees. Some caves. Jack tell us how to catch uga. No uga today, but Kololi girls said jack pulled out an uga for them on their tour.
- Jack’s story about a person getting sick & die, even NZ hospital can’t find what’s wrong. Hunting strangely big uga at “his secret spot,” people suspect he died breaking the tapu. Forest tapu beyond ancient walls. Apparently 2 tourists found wall, Willy doesn’t believe, so had them take him. Took entire day, but found the wall. Ira thankful for Jack’s stories & keeping tapu going. Say in Niue, legends are “stories,” where in Maori culture, ledgends are seen as chat has actually happened.
- The plant warriors use for their headdress & that turns to toffee/sweeter in the lu.
- Apparently many people have never been forest. Some have been lost & found.
- Taste water from vine: can just pour it out! Taste the new fern leaf.
- Strange fungus growing up trees & killing them. Ask Jack if this is new, he says he “thinks so” and he’s “never seen anything like it before.” I’m also concerned about the creeper vine in dump covering everything. Apparently someone brought it in as an ornamental plant (from NZ?) & it “expleded,” so the guy ripped it up & put it in the dump.
- Show us ebony. Says Niuean ebony is harder & blacker than other kinds. Only trees growing on rocks develop the black core.
- Say Niuean people different. There is a seed that Niueans can eat but others will get sick. Also say Niueans immune to asbestos since they work with it and no one get sick from it yet. Others make impressed sounds, but this is just statistics & due to small sample size.
- Black army ants bite some people while in forest. Apparently very painful. Me careful to not stand on areas with ants after.
- Take us to see his studio. Give us bananas. Some people buy carvings. Both pendants & larger sculptures. Say now make mostly pendants since more tourists buy. Also, make only ebony now, since can’s sell other materials for as much, but same effort. A hairpin following natural root curve with a penis on one end. When someone ask for price, say was holding for someone (Some local), but it’s been a while, so sell it anyway. Forgot who. Say touched by millions at World Expo in SH, as he was there for Niue. Say lots of people at World Fair. Story from Brian about the Chinese guy we saw, live in Niue part time. Only Chinese (Other than Mr. Li who work at Matavai?), so gov. send him & his gf. But they broke up in SH, and gov. had to send someone else as the guy didn’t feel like doing the World Fair anymore.
- See the designs for Jack’s pendant displayed in case.
- Stone house: one of the oldest houses (live in by a missionary?).
- Go back too late for Alexa’s snorkelling trip. I would have asked to join too. Too bad for missing it, as there were 3 whales on that trip. Saw cool photos @ airport.
- Nap back from tour.
- Take quick bike ride to Tomb Point. Nice view, but much blocked by trees.
- Go to wharf. One of the familiar tourist families there for a swim. Nice view of rocky coastline. Easy access to other side of reef. Clear waters, see fish, wavering in waves.
- Go with Alexa to take photos of sunset at Utuko.
- Guy fishing or octopus hunting?
- Convinced myself to try a sea cucumber. Ira mentioned export market had been thought of. Some Niueans eat it, but they prefer the smaller kinds, more tender.
- Find & pick up, wash. Stuck on rock when placed there far a while. Lots of tiny suction cups on one side. Ask Willy on way back see him: he says he reckons it’s edible.
- Kill with boiling water: scrunch up then slowly releases. Guts clear & filled with sand. On advice of older ladies, threw guts to chicken: although maybe throw in wrong place. Ladies saw chickens eat dog turd the other day. Chickens eat everything.
- Sea cucumber skin thin & kind of looks like the dry ones from Chinese stores when curled.
- Add butter, wild ginger from forest & Jack’s tour (although tastes more like weird tumeric). Tough, tastes terrible, bitter, a tiny bit like sea squirt. Throw out. Pasta now just with tinned tuna from bread store, picked up earlier.
- Curious how the sea cucumbers from stores are so different. Species? Prep.?
- Start using fly spray & close window/doors. Apparently Ira loves fly spray, some bring for her from NZ. Less/no mosquitos. Sleep better.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
2011 - NZ To SF - Day 54
Day 54: (6 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Wake up ~6 for market day (Tue & Fri). Still dark outside, but market busy.
- Nane: goopy, bit bland. Ate all, but definitely had enough. After so much talk of nane, was just one woman with a large pot of it. Not many vegetables. Some crafts. Pretty small market.
- Nap.
- Bike to Ana’ana slowly, look for phone. No phone, dolphins or whales. Sit & watch ocean for a while looking for ocean life. See reef shelf. Clear water. Slow search back. Wave to cars, people & workers @ quarry.
- Talk to older women. Marion decide go look for mystry sea track (Houme, or something like it). Only show up on old LP. Ira say never heard of it, suggest sea track @ Coral gardens.
- My bike is speed limited due to no high gear in front, misaligned. Otherwise, well oiled & good. Still, I go good speed compared to Marion.
- See the sign (on way) just by Catholic Mission as described. Trail head by a house. Walk leads to nice cove, but no sign of chasm. Follow small side trail, just goes to houses.
- Stop @ Coral Gardens. Meet the guy there, as indicated by Ira. He lives in Akl, but help here during busy season. Straightforward & dry (humour) sometime.
- Had $6.50 (rather than $3.50) beer. Share with Marion. Nice outside are overlooking ocean. Gardens amongst coral rocks: coral gardens? According to guy, not very interesting sea track. Take look, down cliff, not sure if all the way down, so just take look at the good view & waves breaking on reef below. More clear water. See Coral below.
- “World’s toughest golf course” sign.
- wait 1.5 hr for internet (free), Marion use. Chat to tourists, seen before. ½ hr e-mail (slow internet).
- I continue north. Pass Marion: there is a weaving demo today.
- Pass Avaiki, go to Palaha. Concerned when pass Tuapa sign (not expected, according to map), but traihead before village green.
- Nice grass path lined with trees before stairs down.
- Reach cave entrance. 2/3 - decker cave. Walk between holes along ridges, as usual in the caves.
- Nice opening to ocean. Large columns, stalagtites & stalagmites. very big & intimidating. However, not as impressive as LP seems to imply. Take much less time than expected.
- Decide go past Avaiki & do Makefu sea track. Nice village green. Road through grass. Stairs down to reef, but can’t see much there, so go back. Boats. Apparently waka/vaka oy Niue build differently & with different materials, so light & can be carried by one person.
- Finally, go to Avaiki, hope tide is low enough now.
- Short track until caves. Coral calls before. 2 ppl exit caves, look like couriers. See before? Tell me about swim hole in main cave & that tide is low enough.
- Cave is large, quite spectacular. Stray off track 1 or 2 times. Stairs. Large columns, stalagmites & stalagtites. Older ladies told me this place very popular: They loved it & stay 45 min, a family was there during their visit & a couple arrived as they left.
- Put on reef shoes. Walk on reef to right. Big cave. Another cave to other side, but higher up.
- The main cave is absolutely stunning. When see it, thought “are you kidding me” This place doesn’t exist.” Formations like organ on balconey, clear blue pools below filled with coral & fish.
- Quick snorkel, but watching from outside water just as good. Some of the long fish hiding in back. Very sharp rocks, had to walk around.
- Lion-fish like thing under a step near where I entered the pool. The electric blue fish.
- See two quiet girls coming when exit cave. See them later & at airport too.
- Still some time after Avaiki, so try visit the H... sea track again t o try find chasm. Tide much lower, walk out on reef this time. Nice colours as sun getting low, but still no chasm. Clear water & urchins.
- Wound getting rubbed by reef shoes, getting tender when return.
- Visit Utuko reef, just by backpackers (beside Crazy Uga). the German lady there with her friend. German pointed out when snorkelling -> I lean over edge, see lots of colourful fish under the overhang created by coral along pool edge.
- Nice spider web at Utuko: the typical upside-down bowl webs there. Try to photogragph.
- Shower & get clean after sweaty day. Get ready for the island night.
- Nice sunset from kitchen. (A postcard Alexa is of sunset through glass shutters).
- Songs from dance practise throughout shower & sunset nice. Ira goes to the practise. Alexa cent once too.
- Join Ira, Brian, ladies & Alexa for drinks before dinner. I got Leigh downstairs. Turns out we just brought our glasses over. Run back across road for refills. I drink too much that night.
- Nice buffet. Uga soup mostly run out when I get there. Salted beef lu (?) good. Lasagne surprisingly good. 2nd plate: filled with sashimi & marinated raw fish. Mango slice with ice cream (Ira ordered for me while I refill drink) for dessert. Chocolate for Alexa.
- Show is by kitchen & restaurant staff. only 3 main dancers. Apparently very few do Niuean dance now, now mostly like “Hawaiian.” High schools still do traditional dances. Moves are recent creations: piece together traditional moves to songs. Avi (?) the guy dancer; Alexa knows from 3 yrs ago.
- Return, talk about a Fijian cleaning up, wonder if is the CSer. Naisoni sounds familiar to Ira, but apparently they have both Fijian & Niuean names. Ira hear of CS from older girls earlier in evening.
- I go sleep, Alexa keep chatting with Ira.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
- Wake up ~6 for market day (Tue & Fri). Still dark outside, but market busy.
- Nane: goopy, bit bland. Ate all, but definitely had enough. After so much talk of nane, was just one woman with a large pot of it. Not many vegetables. Some crafts. Pretty small market.
- Nap.
- Bike to Ana’ana slowly, look for phone. No phone, dolphins or whales. Sit & watch ocean for a while looking for ocean life. See reef shelf. Clear water. Slow search back. Wave to cars, people & workers @ quarry.
- Talk to older women. Marion decide go look for mystry sea track (Houme, or something like it). Only show up on old LP. Ira say never heard of it, suggest sea track @ Coral gardens.
- My bike is speed limited due to no high gear in front, misaligned. Otherwise, well oiled & good. Still, I go good speed compared to Marion.
- See the sign (on way) just by Catholic Mission as described. Trail head by a house. Walk leads to nice cove, but no sign of chasm. Follow small side trail, just goes to houses.
- Stop @ Coral Gardens. Meet the guy there, as indicated by Ira. He lives in Akl, but help here during busy season. Straightforward & dry (humour) sometime.
- Had $6.50 (rather than $3.50) beer. Share with Marion. Nice outside are overlooking ocean. Gardens amongst coral rocks: coral gardens? According to guy, not very interesting sea track. Take look, down cliff, not sure if all the way down, so just take look at the good view & waves breaking on reef below. More clear water. See Coral below.
- “World’s toughest golf course” sign.
- wait 1.5 hr for internet (free), Marion use. Chat to tourists, seen before. ½ hr e-mail (slow internet).
- I continue north. Pass Marion: there is a weaving demo today.
- Pass Avaiki, go to Palaha. Concerned when pass Tuapa sign (not expected, according to map), but traihead before village green.
- Nice grass path lined with trees before stairs down.
- Reach cave entrance. 2/3 - decker cave. Walk between holes along ridges, as usual in the caves.
- Nice opening to ocean. Large columns, stalagtites & stalagmites. very big & intimidating. However, not as impressive as LP seems to imply. Take much less time than expected.
- Decide go past Avaiki & do Makefu sea track. Nice village green. Road through grass. Stairs down to reef, but can’t see much there, so go back. Boats. Apparently waka/vaka oy Niue build differently & with different materials, so light & can be carried by one person.
- Finally, go to Avaiki, hope tide is low enough now.
- Short track until caves. Coral calls before. 2 ppl exit caves, look like couriers. See before? Tell me about swim hole in main cave & that tide is low enough.
- Cave is large, quite spectacular. Stray off track 1 or 2 times. Stairs. Large columns, stalagmites & stalagtites. Older ladies told me this place very popular: They loved it & stay 45 min, a family was there during their visit & a couple arrived as they left.
- Put on reef shoes. Walk on reef to right. Big cave. Another cave to other side, but higher up.
- The main cave is absolutely stunning. When see it, thought “are you kidding me” This place doesn’t exist.” Formations like organ on balconey, clear blue pools below filled with coral & fish.
- Quick snorkel, but watching from outside water just as good. Some of the long fish hiding in back. Very sharp rocks, had to walk around.
- Lion-fish like thing under a step near where I entered the pool. The electric blue fish.
- See two quiet girls coming when exit cave. See them later & at airport too.
- Still some time after Avaiki, so try visit the H... sea track again t o try find chasm. Tide much lower, walk out on reef this time. Nice colours as sun getting low, but still no chasm. Clear water & urchins.
- Wound getting rubbed by reef shoes, getting tender when return.
- Visit Utuko reef, just by backpackers (beside Crazy Uga). the German lady there with her friend. German pointed out when snorkelling -> I lean over edge, see lots of colourful fish under the overhang created by coral along pool edge.
- Nice spider web at Utuko: the typical upside-down bowl webs there. Try to photogragph.
- Shower & get clean after sweaty day. Get ready for the island night.
- Nice sunset from kitchen. (A postcard Alexa is of sunset through glass shutters).
- Songs from dance practise throughout shower & sunset nice. Ira goes to the practise. Alexa cent once too.
- Join Ira, Brian, ladies & Alexa for drinks before dinner. I got Leigh downstairs. Turns out we just brought our glasses over. Run back across road for refills. I drink too much that night.
- Nice buffet. Uga soup mostly run out when I get there. Salted beef lu (?) good. Lasagne surprisingly good. 2nd plate: filled with sashimi & marinated raw fish. Mango slice with ice cream (Ira ordered for me while I refill drink) for dessert. Chocolate for Alexa.
- Show is by kitchen & restaurant staff. only 3 main dancers. Apparently very few do Niuean dance now, now mostly like “Hawaiian.” High schools still do traditional dances. Moves are recent creations: piece together traditional moves to songs. Avi (?) the guy dancer; Alexa knows from 3 yrs ago.
- Return, talk about a Fijian cleaning up, wonder if is the CSer. Naisoni sounds familiar to Ira, but apparently they have both Fijian & Niuean names. Ira hear of CS from older girls earlier in evening.
- I go sleep, Alexa keep chatting with Ira.
Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/
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