2011 - NZ To SF - Day 25

Day 25: (7 June 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Jeff leave in morning for his sailing trip (worried about being seasick). Whether still windy, but a bit warmer & more sun (until afternoon).
- No internet: Queen's birthday. Found breakfast in store: $1 buns & $1 papaya.
- Move out of room. Wait for North American couple back from walk, prepare, etc.
- With couple & Polish guy, walk to Pacific Resort to swim across to island. Very strong current, some fish on bottom. Lots of people due to lagoon cruises. Couple say empty yesterday (Sunday).
- Explore island a bit. Nice views of main island & ocean. Colour changes in channel beautiful.
- Lie in sun for a bit. Dragged over tables. Told to drag back when cruise arrive.
- Snorkel.
- Walk on difficult stones. Find coconut to break. Coconut taste buttery.
- Told not to sit at table close to coconut breaking demo. Guy try to watch.
- Told to pick up "rubbish" (coconut pieces / filament) on beach. "Don't like being yelled at on my paradise island."
- Snorkel back. More fish in channel.
- Shower, wash clothes. Sit around. Kitesurfers to watch.
- Polish go for walk. Try find viewpoint.
- Germans go to other side, look for less wind & more sun.
- Go with Mark from NZ, look for chips. Found at Pacific Resort.
- Eventually, find dinner - everything closed but expensive restaurants. Buy tinned Wattie's pasta with sausage & beer from Mr. Woo. Stalky, short, tattoo. Friendly. Talk in Chinese. From SH, Raro 13 yrs, want move back. Say island people very nice but stupid, marry cousins. Ridiculous 200K deposit for visitors from China. Work for 10/hr, was 7 in supermarket. Only 5 or 6 Chinese on island, including his family of 4. Few Chinese visitors.
- Drink, talk. People go to bed one by one. Talk to British couple also leaving.
- Nap 1hr in lounge, lights off, lie down on padded benches. Mosquitos keep awake.
- The strange bus lady. Pacific Blue then Air NZ flights at airport. Nap (try) & wait.
- $55 departure tax. Sticker with simple child-like pictures.
- Old guy serenade as we board. "Back to the cold." "Don't look so sad" song.
- Seat reclined only a bit. Mostly sleepless night. Turbulence.
- Apparently Aggie Grey's & a stretch of beaches on south coast are all closed for filming of Survivor.

Photos available at: http://mandarinmanmarktravelbriefs.blogspot.com/

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 24

Day 24: (6 June 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Woke up @7. Lie in bed until 9.
- Read the LP of South Pacific someone left. Talk to the new arrivals.
- Pay at past 11. Go for walk north, Polish & Canadian Jeff join. Walk by Te Vara Nui.
- Vaka departure site, palace, etc: Nothing there!
- Nice road, calm, sound of ocean, view of mountains & fields.
- Long talk with Jeff. Realise why he is a bit different: he is 55 years old! I would have guessed 30-35 (thinking back, that's a low guess). Food, eating, exercise, societal expectations. He say he is black sheep of family. Sikh family, Calgary.
- Pass by the coffee factory. Polish guy leave earlier to try mountain trail? Milkshake.
- Back, watch basketball game, Dallas & Miami. Team the Germans rooting for lost 86-88.
- Between game, walk along beach north. Island very close, saw person walking! Chest-deep.
- Keep bumping into people I met throughout stay in Raro.
- Lounge around, chat. Sit & stare at ocean. Simple dinner. Went to stores, only canned food so bought panini. Enough fried foods. Ask where German get alcohol: "My friend": Mr. Woo, store owner who told one person he was from Shanghai & another: Japan. Usually, no alcohol on Sunday. Sails restaurant also sells alcohol after 6pm. Just read LP & sit & some talk for rest of night.

Photos available at: http://mandarinmanmarktravelbriefs.blogspot.com/

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 23

Day 23: (5 June 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Return bike. Leave ~8:10am. Tom puts lei on me. Short chat. Tom say grew up here. Not much change.
- At Airport: when plane lands, serenade guy gets in position, greets with leis, etc.
- Nice views of Aitutaki on take off. Small blue & green patch in dark blue endless ocean.
- Turbulence, especially when descending. Nice views of Raro. Mountain island in sea.
- Person with same bag on baggage claim.
- Walk to town. Some spurts of rain in morning. Navy boat in harbour against green mountains.
- Go to Punanga Nui market. Pretty big. Music, shows. Octopus with coconut. Taro leaf w/ coconut cream & breadfruit. Very delicious. Same type of description from island night. Pulasami [sic. eventually learned is palusami]. When I say try: "Good man" "will put some hairs on your chest." One of the most memorable delicious meals of this trip, eating and dripping on picnic tables.
- Carved rock commemorating AUSAID & PR China for help in creating the market.
- Walk to town. See wreck. Nice view of small town & mountains.
- Large queue @ police (driver license processing?). Police & court surprisingly modern buildings.
- Cool church. The old palace thing on map: no way to access, see piles of rocks (wall / rectangle) in bushes, is that it?
- Walk to place on interest on map: Auditorium. Well-kept building, trees, not much else. National museum & library closed for Sat.
- Wait for bus, but must have missed it.
- Walk to town. Can't find Internet or the brewery (does this exist?) I saw on bus the other day.
- Get on anti-clockwise bus. Very full. Beach views on South of island. Pass clockwise bus ~5-10 min before I get off.
- Office closed. Some people tell me just take bed. Pay next day. Windy & cold.
- Internet @ café.
- Take walk south to Beach Cove (?) when beach ends. Told water very high, so beach has shrunk. Sign with McDonald's on it: 2855 km away.
- Eat at burger place close to here. Wait for German until ~10:30 (leaving @ 11:30). Sleep. Japanese girl in room.
- At night: 3 people arrive. Girl is Canadian. Jeff is Canadian: in room.

Photos available at: http://mandarinmanmarktravelbriefs.blogspot.com/

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 22

Day 22: (4 June 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Eat bread, then discover is mouldy. Walk, guy at Rino's Rentals say hi, then I get bicycle. He say $5, but charge $8 in office. No change, so tell to pay later. Rusty, squeaky, high friction, bad breaks.
- Town: Post card, tourist info: Nothing on south of island other than marae. Oldest church here. Not much by harbour. Maybe market building? Person asking if I'm OK. Nice tree-lined road, though.
- Bike down west coast to southern tip. Lagoon view. Up middle to marae: nothing there? Terrible dirt & coral road, fields, crops, palm trees, pigs, goats, chickens.
- Nice church in Tautu. Map: car stop ask if I'm OK. Go to wharf, see Swiss on scooter. Nice view at lagoon, but nothing compared to cruise. Schools of jumping fish. Quite loud & starteling.
- Bike up west coast. Arch formed by banyan tree. Random dirt road by water through fields. Road lined with tall palm trees.
- Visit marine centre. No one there. Tubs of baby giant clams: cute. Shrink back when move close to it. A NZ tourist arrive on cycle as well. Info sheet. Tub of crabs, scared of people. Can't find turtles. Clam shell donation box.
- Snorkel by airport. White sand with coral pieces. Some fish, but very murkey & layer of gunk on stuff.
- Return: Meet the British couple. Short chat.
- Rain start ~15-20 min after my return. Look for noni. See fruit trees, but on people's property. 2 oranges (US?) (not fresh) for $5.80.
- Beer & write. Hope rain will stop. Want tour rest of town, return bike & get dinner.
- Rain stop. Go to town. Ride to just past power station Humming large shed. There is on administration centre here. Also passed church with metal pole spire: remind me of Tonga. Roads quite large here.
- Raining, wet. Downhill back, so pretty fast, careful to be safe with bad brakes.
- Shower, etc. Wait to talk about airport transfer & for dinner. Stopped raining. Nothing to do.
- Get dinner ~6:15. Ask for $5 coin or $3 notes. Talk to Tom when return with food. Suggest leave @ 8:15 for 9:00 flight. Actually, mine at 9:10.
- Eat, drink, enjoy being alone, since will not be soon. Read about Raro.

Photos available at: http://mandarinmanmarktravelbriefs.blogspot.com/

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 21

Day 21: (3 June 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Get up & leave ~8:30am. Sun already quite high. People get up early in Cooks: sun rise early & set early.
- Walk up eastern road & book island night @ Tamanu Beach Hotel.
- Abandoned buildings along road. (Hurricane?) Views of lush cliffs & hills. Pig pens & chickens.
- Walk up to airport. Lots of hotels & resorts on the way. Bump into American couple. They jog? Tell me about going up mountain. Past old runway (?), now cut by fence & road. Past marine research centre. Didn't see much (other than large antennas) from the road, just a few sheds in distance, but should have gone: giant clams & baby turtles. Try taste of noni.
- Down road by runway. Very long & straight. No shade. See tourist person on scooter, can't start it (before the long section).
- Past café, see Akitua across a narrow channel. Tempted to swim over, but found a free ferry. Ferry has timetable, but does not seem to matter.
- Can't use beach, must pay $50 day use fee if stay. Includes use of kayaks, etc.
- Decide just take walk around. See very nicely maintained beaches, etc. Hammocks under coconut trees (what about falling coconuts, maybe remove?). Over-water bungalows. Couples.
- See islands in distance, farther than expected. Perhaps can snorkel across. Reception say "maybe" boat guy say can walk along reef, but has stonefish. Also: high tide so can get sucked out. Cheapest room low season: ~$450.
- See plane land before get on boat.
- Boat guy conversation. Slower boat (to talk?), sit a min or two to finish convo before I leave. Say things expensive here, some people complain. Tell me bar by beach to left, can walk by beach, but wasps will sting & lumps like "kumaras." Talk about girls dancing (?). Men here are strangely quiet and say strange things.
- Walk to Samade. Have juice. Nice beach bar, but beach a bit small. (High tide).
- Before leave, arrive a group of middle-age from Nelson. Excited. Came via Raro.
- Hitchhike back to start of boring road. Old man with Boat House Restaurant shirt not talkative.
- Walk down to start of trail. See American couple again, on bicycles to go to Boat Shed. Girl had craving for pasta. Chat about area.
- Up Maungapu. View OK, lots of trees in way. Israeli tourist Dad, mom (elder) & son? Walk along hill for better view, then up a steep hill. Very hot & sunny. Can just about see entire lagoon. Nice colours & reflection of clouds.
- Walk to 2nd hill, son offer me ride as they go there. Just as we start, parents scooter topple over. Their gas is stuck. Give bandages. Son push scooter & parents ride. Go back.
- I walk & try noni. Not as terrible as expected. Long, hot, sunny. Alone. Running out of water. Bag break, fix. Feel very alone (as in no one else around). Good idea to try noni just before?
- Nice view of lagoon. Loss obstruction. Road / trail just mowed grass & later dirt. Very relieved to see houses and signs of people again.
- Walk back through middle of island. Like 3rd world country. Fields, pigs, chickens.
- Villages in lush settings. Cars still pretty modern. Kids walking with backpacks (from school?) on long road & hill. Barefoot on sharp coral rocks road (one eating some fruit), even uncomfortable for me in old jandals (although mine are nearly worn through).
- Road look like driveway, connect to eastern road between two houses. Hearty "hi" from some people sitting on back house porch. Crave fruit pop, buy bottle.
- See beach: muddy, sea cucumbers, small fish. Write & nap, eat noni, wait for Island Night.
- Watch sunset over ocean. "Greatest show on Earth" is my opinion. Sounds of rugby & distant rumbling of waves. Mosquitos & tiny sand flies? Other guy left on afternoon today. From Poland? Holland?
- Discover broken pixel on camera. (more like a 2x2 or 3x3 patch). Why are there multiple things that grate on me on this trip? Maybe exercise in attachment. (Note: at end of trip feel intensely at peace, things no longer really bother me).
- Long walk in dark to island night @ Tamanu.
- Big buffet feast (umukai). Host (part owner & founder) very gracious to guests. Thank them. Many foods: island cabbage? Sweet crumbled bread thing, poi (purple jelly), salty bubbly seaweed, lamb curry, roast pork, ice cream, purple kumara, etc.Table with old Japanese tourist, say here 20 yrs ago, take pic of bar maid when small. Been to many islands with family. Jap. story in NC? Two NZ doctors in final rotation / training here share table as well.
- Sit outside for show. Fire dance. Percussion music with traditional instruments, like the "changing dancers" music. Many outfits. Showed a "Maori haka" from NZ/Aotearoa. Song in English with lyrics including "Greetings & farewell from Aitutaki."
- Walk under stars back. Car stop, ask if I OK, give ride back. Short chat, ask if annoyed with so many tourists, she say "sometimes." Chat is not as good, as usual. People nice but not warm. Didn't quite understand, when ask about no dogs. People from Raro bring dogs, then have to kill them?

Photos available at: http://mandarinmanmarktravelbriefs.blogspot.com/

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 20

Day 20: (2 June 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Get up 8:30 after restless night/morning. Bread & peanut butter for breakfast. Get ready, wash shirt & socks.
- At ~9:40, truck arrive & honk. Get on back. Flatbed with planks. English couple on honeymoon for 2 weeks & Vermont couple to be married in a month. Both young.
- Small old yellow catamaran. Father (Puna) & young son. Old people on boat already.
- Start in brownish waters, but as get into lagoon, water turns blue. Waves breaking along edge in distance. Note: high tide all day.
- Shallow coral sections all the way. Some marked with a stick. Must be hard to navigate.
- Stunned by colours. All throughout the day. Blue overload. Sun position, water depth create so many brilliant blues.
- Stopped to see turtles. See one in distance. Sting ray jumping.
- Dropped non-snorkellers on sand bar, photos, then to 1st snorkelling spot. Dive down to see giant clams. Diff. colours, some as big as me! (in weight).
- Go to island. Half-built house frame there. Very tame (thought were terns) tropic bird. Aggressive when get too close. Hermit crabs everywhere. Dry pile of palm leaves. Tropic bird babies. Sweet fried dough, watermelon, lemon-aid, etc. for snack in shady tree area. A nest right in middle of snack area. Walked around island for view.
- Island where Survivors, Island Wars, & other shows filmed. Walked around for view of One Foot Island. Snails. Hermit crabs in long shells.
- Stop on round sand island with a few bushes on it. Walk across middle. Photos. Blinded by how bright it ts. Maybe can wade/swim to nearby islands?
- Go to One Foot Island. The vaka arrive too. Looks much higher class with snacks too. Some snacks / fruits at post office / bar, but did not take as not sure if it's free. Did not get passport stamped, but sent postcard, which got the same stamp. Had beer. When leaving, local playing guitar/ukelele. Ideal environment.
- Walked down beach for lunch. Blessed in CK Maori: say grace. Delicious. Made by wife of captain. Fish, breadfruit salad (like potato salad, which was also there), purple kumara, etc. Good spread. Mosquitos. Pay. Hermit crab out of shell.
- See them feed coconut to chickens. Cats waiting. Discuss: no dogs here, thought they brought some diseases (leprosey?) & banned them in past. One tourist talked to a person who never left Aitutaki & never seen a dog.
- Final snorkelling spot. Cage with young giant clams. Give bread to feed fish. Fish spine that fish are pecking at. Grab it, lots of fish follow, get close.
- Cruise back: nice views. See edge of lagoon with waves & mist. Waves cause murky waters.
- Say by: if don't mind, will mention names to lord to look after during trip & travels.
- Drive back, dropped off at store past my place. Driver felt bad forget me. I say no prob, going to store anyway. Bought beer. Point out trees to people (breadfruit). Answer Q's at lunch. One girl say she's impressed.
- People training rugby? Swim after. Sounds of laughter, Polynesian music, family all around.
- Inside, as uncomfortable relaxing with beer next to training field.
- Sit & watch bonfire constructed by Tim's family. What for? Don't think is umu.
- Gecko chasing giant cockroach?
- Polynesian radio for hours. Beer. Nap. Beer & write. Not hungry due to big lunch. Stars on beach. Eat PB & bread for dinner. Beer & write. Go to bed ~10pm.

Photos available at: http://mandarinmanmarktravelbriefs.blogspot.com/

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 19

Day 19: (1 June 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Due to toilet paper ear plugs, was able to drift in/out of sleep until 9:30.
- Ate the cake I got last night for breakfast + banana. Talk. Go snorkelling with 2 German girls. Pack while waiting. One from yesterday, one arrived night before.
- Fish attack goggles. Giant hiding moray eel. Octopus changing colour & shape to hide. German girl tell me fish nibbled at her belly button. Stonefish foraging.
- Walk back, mostly along beach. Chat. Leave to catch 1:30 bus.
- Tried hitchhiking with 3 cars, but no one pick up. Bus: "Warning: Jet blast area" sign. Sea wall & water, end of runway past fence.
- Check-in start at 1hr before, so walk to petrol station / grocery store. Expensive, not much so no buy.
- Had Matutu lager @ restaurant/bar/hotel across from airport. Nice "beach" & pool area.
- Meditated about life. Felt completely at peace after. Watched waves. Island is beautiful. Nothing on horizon, mountains green, etc.
- Airport: dry shirt & wait. Check in @ just before 3 for 3:30 flight.
- Check-in: "You must be Mark!" Didn't even check anything. Took bag on scale. Gave paper receipt-like slip for boarding pass.
- Chickens at airport. Vending machine ate 20 cents?
- Have to ask if to Aitutaki when boarding. Very casual flight. Polynesian pilot name. Attendant knows the other flying family? Chat in CK Maori. Just large family, me & Swiss tourist.
- Person on ukelele welcome on Aitutaki. Day tour people just leaving? Views of island & lagoon on landing. Me on wrong side.
- Long time unload. Get a ride with family living across from Tom's. Say umu is common here. Point out one the school kids are making for a project. Difficult to find person around.
- Get house for: "How much can you pay?" 35->32. After: Explained hurricane last year wiped out the hostel, still rebuilding. "You can't afford 35?" After me saying I thought it was $20s.
- Talk to ladies, they book cruise for me. They think weather will be good tomorrow because weather has been nice for past few days. No check weather forecast.
- Beach a bit smelly. Nice views for sunset. Slightly warmer than Raro.
- Walk to town. Bought bread & PB, things very expensive, as expected. Chicken & chips from place on way back. Air Raro shed & "no Sunday flights" signs. Beer.
- Long night. Alcohol effective against mosquitos? Step outside to see stars: other beach house has TV? Jumping fish at beach when shine light. I have larger house, but not right on beach. Bible in room.
- Water salty & Aititaki. Has some particles too. OK after running water. Drink beer instead. Mouldy fridge.
- Rat chewing on roof. Sleep ~11pm.
- Restless night. Rats chewing. Coconuts falling. Random chorus of roosters. Traffic. Ball field sounds.

Photos available at: http://mandarinmanmarktravelbriefs.blogspot.com/