Day 88: (9 August 2011):
- Note: cross-reference with photos. Written from memory in DPRK.
- Ate at place just beside for convenience. Gave us side orders of fried eggs & omlette, even when not on menu. Reasonable prices.
- Walk to the famous vat. Pay admission. See in detail the scenes on walls. LP shot. Meet the couple. Royal garage. Ugly rubber tires under it. Fortune telling stick things, but only in Lao.
- Walk to Phu Si, temple hill. National museum is indeed closed.
- Lots of steps up. Great view of Luang Prabang at top. See airport.
- Nice pagoda / stupa, but nothing too exciting.
- Lunch at Mekong riverside. Big plate of riverweed for 1k. Not as good as last night, but still good. A bit bitter. Garlic slices in it. Wonder how clean the river is.
- Tour office: agree to charter a private boat for 300k to visit caves.
- 8 seater boat, just us two. Burn fuel very fast. Refuel twice. Fuel jug right beside hot engine. Change battery from a friend’s boat. Crowded local boat with produce on it. Cool houseboats.
- Some kind of traps. Kids playing, etc. Kids lying on boat bow.
- ~2hrs. Arrive near large cliffs. Limestone karst appear.
- Duck & go to caves. Bamboo unstable floating platform.
- Lower cave: Lots of small Buddhas. Staircase to nowhere.
- Staircase to upper cave, no need torch & no donate.
- Old gate. Dark inside. Stupa & Buddhas. Statue (1 or 2) carvings on cave wall. Lots of ruined Buddhas. Incense marks on crevasses.
- Rainbow over river. Nice views. Loud music from river across way.
- Stop at laolao village after asking. Felix buy laolao, I buy scarf for cousin. Actually local made or factory?
- Invite for drinks. Sit & drink the strong laolao. Chat. Centipedes in village, ¾ jars of laolao/day, “niuk” = cheers, etc. Roasted buffalo skin & bamboo chaser.
- Boat ride back. Driver pee off back. Sun setting. Sinusoidal hills.
- Drink beer with driver & friend. Poor English. Motion. Felix arrange ride to airport tomorrow. Tell us about disco. Cheaper Beerlao for locals. (8k).
- Food alley at market for dinner. 10k/plate buffet & buy meat on stick separately. Felix chat with Belgians/Dutch/French? Lots of misunderstandings.
- Sleep a bit earlier, as decide to wake up for alms ceremony tomorrow.
- Boat driver’s friend tell us at 5-6am.
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