Day 109: (30 August 2011):
- Woke up at decent time after Ben went to work.
- Got lucky & caught most express train to Kobe.
- Fast & smooth. Pass many stations non-stop.
- Section where there is only one track. Wonder where other direction is.
- The train took me to centre of Kyoto.
- Walk to N-S line. Again, familiar outside. Cross the bridge with Kanagawa hangout, Chinese restaurant.
- Notice this train line goes to a station in Osaka too!
- Since did a more Southern loop last time, doing a more Northern loop this time, with Ben rec. go to Silver Pagoda.
- Look for gyu-don. Can’t find! Walk by some random temples, not that interesting. Van selling bento boxes by school. Tempted to take bus, but can’t figure out details. Hot.
- Commercial/store area in front of Ginkakuji.
- Decide go in even though want gyu-don.
- Nice & peaceful. Raked sand patterns. Small trail with forest section & mini waterfall. Not mind blowing but calm & pretty. Nice-ish view of city. Sign point out a tree transplanted from one of the nuclear blast-affected areas.
- Roofs are very pretty & neat.
- No silver panels, construction not as planned (?) (look up history).
- Enjoyed a matcha tea ice cream snack as started on the philosopher’s walk.
- Philosopher’s walk: clear smooth-flowing water. Wavering river weed & some fish.
- Calm tiny path & road beside the channel.
- Walk about ½, but then break to visit shrines up hill.
- Quiet neighbourhood, houses, trees.
- Nice quiet shrine in forest. Raked sand. Moss on thick thached gate roof.
- Fountain with leaf spout.
- Possible monk living quarters, but didn’t go there.
- Continue on philosopher’s walk.
- All temples signposted with history. Most closed to public.
- Walked up a street to find a temple, but just residential area.
- School children in uniforms (returning from lunch?).
- Bump into British (?) couple often.
- Go to the temple with the pagoda with nice view (look up name). Wasn’t going to enter, but then decided why not? Kind of expensive (Y600?).
- Even though I spoke English, attendant gave me a Japanese pamphlet, which I changed for an English one.
- Kind of reminded me of feel of Ginkakuji.
- Grounds divided up into an indoor loop: no shoes, wan wear provided slippers if want.
- Some nice rooms. Covered walkway up to a pagoda.
- Took chance to go to quiet toilet. Toilet slippers.
- Big prayer hall nice.
- Outside loop. Pagoda: nice view of city. Ponds.
- Bridge to mini-island with altar.
- Some construction being done.
- Some autumn colours just beginning to turn.
- Tried to find road to the couple of temples in forest, but after some wandering, come to some stairs & paths after some confusing alleys / roads. Nice though, bridge by pond, a temple. Person ringing large bell by large chord as with a few places) worshipping. Some sitting by table & vending machine.
- Continue to main entrance of (look up name, the big temple complex).
- Decide go up gate.
- Very large wooden gate. Access by an exposed staircase from one of the side houses.
- More nice views. Warm, comforting wood. Statues inside (?) (Don’t fully remember. Check up).
- Continue to inner section.
- Beautiful series of rooms with paintings. (Missed first time).
- The zen garden (tiger crossing river or something like that).
- Didn’t go to the side garden (Not mentioned in LP).
- Went by some cool brick aquaducts. Quite a good flow rate. Many people take photos through arches.
- Follow LP instructions to visit the forest shrines.
- Past a shrine & graveyard.
- Forest trail (paved) (with unpaved branches).
- Washing stations along trail.
- A bit spooky alone.
- An altar that you have to pass through.
- Cave with a small waterfall outside. Statues, graves.
- Janitor closet.
- Pass a western couple on way back. Me: “Hello.” They: “Konnichiwa.”
- Glad to be back due to creepiness.
- Did all the main things I wanted. Walk by more temples, by bank of river with fountains, through town. Intl. center & large torii near wity gov. blds.
- Walk by the largest wooden gate, but already closed (5pm). Sit for a rest & use banks of vending machines. Read LP. Quite a few tourists around. Taxis & buses there.
- Sad is closed. Sounds interesting from LP description.
- Continue, now through the familiar territory of the park, old-style streets, tower, etc. Remember making call/rest last time with Ben. Sick. Abt same time & lighting too!
- Lucky idols scattered around with descriptions.
- Still quite a bit of time left before I’m to meet Ben.
- Walk up the shop-lined road, so familiar. Tasty-looking matcha ice cream.
- To my surprise, Kiomizu still open. Open until 6:30.
- Considered get some food first, but then decide not.
- Side section with the love finder test. Lots of myths/idols. Closed? But still lots people go see. Hear about test stones, didn’t see them. Hear about dark room to feel around, didn’t see.
- Cool worship hall with big gong thing.
- Nice lighting, sun setting.
- Sadly, some construction blocking full view.
- Hills with lots of graves in forest. Map of plots.
- Follow trail down to sacred spring.
- Do washing ceremony. Cups in UV sanitizers. Water supposedly sacred and has healing power?
- Brief chat with American / Jap. gf.
- Following trail up, leads to upper outside. If come this way, no ticket needed?
- Walk back through busy town. Familiar. Stores where we had to go to bathroom last time.
- Sit in park by pond, read LP & wait.
- See the temple we missed last time.
- Help girls take photo. “sugoi!”
- Wander alleyways a bit.
- Overhear some talk abt. seeing a geisha from westeners. Wonder if real or tourist geisha.
- Back of pachinko parlour, see balls exchanged in alleyway.
- Cool AC vent w/hot vent right beside.
- Ben arrive. Meet with him.
- Leg worse than ever, been getting worse over time. Happy did not do Fuji, although possibly do-able, just painful.
- Subway station putters had water from the streams flowing down it. Intentional?
- Wanted the Nagoya style izakaya as did not make it to Nagoya.
- Decide on an izikaya with basashi. Some looking & decide on one on main strip.
- Delicious izikaya meal to end a tiring day. Non-stop walking. Not much eating.
- Nice curtained-off booth.
- Y1000 nomihadai (or discount, choice). Quite a few drinks. Surprisingly good drink service. Good variety of things.
- Very salty tako. Fill in detailed survey.
- Decide food good, but nothing extraordinary. Tako too salty.
- Make sure catch last train back.
- Back & sleep. Getting late. Ben has work next day.
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