Thursday, July 7, 2011

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 55

Day 55: (7 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Woke up to get ready for forest walk @ 8:30am. Asked Alexa to knock to wake me up, but I had to knock on her door to check she is awake.
- Weather a bit cloudy. Some big clouds. Apparently rain on other side of island.
- Jack asked to do tour by tourism office when prev. guy stopped. prev guy didn’t wear shoes. How is this possible on sharp coral?
- Story about hotel guy do tour, give made-up names, etc.
- Quick stop @ Matavai to pick up 4 others.
- Drive through the grave road portion to Havalu. Rain, puddles on road.
- Happy to see forest floor is only moist. The water drains quickly through porous rocks & caves, into the ocean. This is why there are no rivers on Niue, but plenty of springs. Niue also sits on a giant “water lens” and some say it’s shaped like a mushroom. Not sure is true.
- Jack stop & explain things & tell stories every few steps.
- Nice hearing rain on leaves. A few heavy spurts, but cleared up later.
- Highlights: “tiwali” tree roots “twisted tree.” A few big trees. Banyan like trees. Some caves. Jack tell us how to catch uga. No uga today, but Kololi girls said jack pulled out an uga for them on their tour.
- Jack’s story about a person getting sick & die, even NZ hospital can’t find what’s wrong. Hunting strangely big uga at “his secret spot,” people suspect he died breaking the tapu. Forest tapu beyond ancient walls. Apparently 2 tourists found wall, Willy doesn’t believe, so had them take him. Took entire day, but found the wall. Ira thankful for Jack’s stories & keeping tapu going. Say in Niue, legends are “stories,” where in Maori culture, ledgends are seen as chat has actually happened.
- The plant warriors use for their headdress & that turns to toffee/sweeter in the lu.
- Apparently many people have never been forest. Some have been lost & found.
- Taste water from vine: can just pour it out! Taste the new fern leaf.
- Strange fungus growing up trees & killing them. Ask Jack if this is new, he says he “thinks so” and he’s “never seen anything like it before.” I’m also concerned about the creeper vine in dump covering everything. Apparently someone brought it in as an ornamental plant (from NZ?) & it “expleded,” so the guy ripped it up & put it in the dump.
- Show us ebony. Says Niuean ebony is harder & blacker than other kinds. Only trees growing on rocks develop the black core.
- Say Niuean people different. There is a seed that Niueans can eat but others will get sick. Also say Niueans immune to asbestos since they work with it and no one get sick from it yet. Others make impressed sounds, but this is just statistics & due to small sample size.
- Black army ants bite some people while in forest. Apparently very painful. Me careful to not stand on areas with ants after.
- Take us to see his studio. Give us bananas. Some people buy carvings. Both pendants & larger sculptures. Say now make mostly pendants since more tourists buy. Also, make only ebony now, since can’s sell other materials for as much, but same effort. A hairpin following natural root curve with a penis on one end. When someone ask for price, say was holding for someone (Some local), but it’s been a while, so sell it anyway. Forgot who. Say touched by millions at World Expo in SH, as he was there for Niue. Say lots of people at World Fair. Story from Brian about the Chinese guy we saw, live in Niue part time. Only Chinese (Other than Mr. Li who work at Matavai?), so gov. send him & his gf. But they broke up in SH, and gov. had to send someone else as the guy didn’t feel like doing the World Fair anymore.
- See the designs for Jack’s pendant displayed in case.
- Stone house: one of the oldest houses (live in by a missionary?).
- Go back too late for Alexa’s snorkelling trip. I would have asked to join too. Too bad for missing it, as there were 3 whales on that trip. Saw cool photos @ airport.
- Nap back from tour.
- Take quick bike ride to Tomb Point. Nice view, but much blocked by trees.
- Go to wharf. One of the familiar tourist families there for a swim. Nice view of rocky coastline. Easy access to other side of reef. Clear waters, see fish, wavering in waves.
- Go with Alexa to take photos of sunset at Utuko.
- Guy fishing or octopus hunting?
- Convinced myself to try a sea cucumber. Ira mentioned export market had been thought of. Some Niueans eat it, but they prefer the smaller kinds, more tender.
- Find & pick up, wash. Stuck on rock when placed there far a while. Lots of tiny suction cups on one side. Ask Willy on way back see him: he says he reckons it’s edible.
- Kill with boiling water: scrunch up then slowly releases. Guts clear & filled with sand. On advice of older ladies, threw guts to chicken: although maybe throw in wrong place. Ladies saw chickens eat dog turd the other day. Chickens eat everything.
- Sea cucumber skin thin & kind of looks like the dry ones from Chinese stores when curled.
- Add butter, wild ginger from forest & Jack’s tour (although tastes more like weird tumeric). Tough, tastes terrible, bitter, a tiny bit like sea squirt. Throw out. Pasta now just with tinned tuna from bread store, picked up earlier.
- Curious how the sea cucumbers from stores are so different. Species? Prep.?
- Start using fly spray & close window/doors. Apparently Ira loves fly spray, some bring for her from NZ. Less/no mosquitos. Sleep better.

Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 54

Day 54: (6 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Wake up ~6 for market day (Tue & Fri). Still dark outside, but market busy.
- Nane: goopy, bit bland. Ate all, but definitely had enough. After so much talk of nane, was just one woman with a large pot of it. Not many vegetables. Some crafts. Pretty small market.
- Nap.
- Bike to Ana’ana slowly, look for phone. No phone, dolphins or whales. Sit & watch ocean for a while looking for ocean life. See reef shelf. Clear water. Slow search back. Wave to cars, people & workers @ quarry.
- Talk to older women. Marion decide go look for mystry sea track (Houme, or something like it). Only show up on old LP. Ira say never heard of it, suggest sea track @ Coral gardens.
- My bike is speed limited due to no high gear in front, misaligned. Otherwise, well oiled & good. Still, I go good speed compared to Marion.
- See the sign (on way) just by Catholic Mission as described. Trail head by a house. Walk leads to nice cove, but no sign of chasm. Follow small side trail, just goes to houses.
- Stop @ Coral Gardens. Meet the guy there, as indicated by Ira. He lives in Akl, but help here during busy season. Straightforward & dry (humour) sometime.
- Had $6.50 (rather than $3.50) beer. Share with Marion. Nice outside are overlooking ocean. Gardens amongst coral rocks: coral gardens? According to guy, not very interesting sea track. Take look, down cliff, not sure if all the way down, so just take look at the good view & waves breaking on reef below. More clear water. See Coral below.
- “World’s toughest golf course” sign.
- wait 1.5 hr for internet (free), Marion use. Chat to tourists, seen before. ½ hr e-mail (slow internet).
- I continue north. Pass Marion: there is a weaving demo today.
- Pass Avaiki, go to Palaha. Concerned when pass Tuapa sign (not expected, according to map), but traihead before village green.
- Nice grass path lined with trees before stairs down.
- Reach cave entrance. 2/3 - decker cave. Walk between holes along ridges, as usual in the caves.
- Nice opening to ocean. Large columns, stalagtites & stalagmites. very big & intimidating. However, not as impressive as LP seems to imply. Take much less time than expected.
- Decide go past Avaiki & do Makefu sea track. Nice village green. Road through grass. Stairs down to reef, but can’t see much there, so go back. Boats. Apparently waka/vaka oy Niue build differently & with different materials, so light & can be carried by one person.
- Finally, go to Avaiki, hope tide is low enough now.
- Short track until caves. Coral calls before. 2 ppl exit caves, look like couriers. See before? Tell me about swim hole in main cave & that tide is low enough.
- Cave is large, quite spectacular. Stray off track 1 or 2 times. Stairs. Large columns, stalagmites & stalagtites. Older ladies told me this place very popular: They loved it & stay 45 min, a family was there during their visit & a couple arrived as they left.
- Put on reef shoes. Walk on reef to right. Big cave. Another cave to other side, but higher up.
- The main cave is absolutely stunning. When see it, thought “are you kidding me” This place doesn’t exist.” Formations like organ on balconey, clear blue pools below filled with coral & fish.
- Quick snorkel, but watching from outside water just as good. Some of the long fish hiding in back. Very sharp rocks, had to walk around.
- Lion-fish like thing under a step near where I entered the pool. The electric blue fish.
- See two quiet girls coming when exit cave. See them later & at airport too.
- Still some time after Avaiki, so try visit the H... sea track again t o try find chasm. Tide much lower, walk out on reef this time. Nice colours as sun getting low, but still no chasm. Clear water & urchins.
- Wound getting rubbed by reef shoes, getting tender when return.
- Visit Utuko reef, just by backpackers (beside Crazy Uga). the German lady there with her friend. German pointed out when snorkelling -> I lean over edge, see lots of colourful fish under the overhang created by coral along pool edge.
- Nice spider web at Utuko: the typical upside-down bowl webs there. Try to photogragph.
- Shower & get clean after sweaty day. Get ready for the island night.
- Nice sunset from kitchen. (A postcard Alexa is of sunset through glass shutters).
- Songs from dance practise throughout shower & sunset nice. Ira goes to the practise. Alexa cent once too.
- Join Ira, Brian, ladies & Alexa for drinks before dinner. I got Leigh downstairs. Turns out we just brought our glasses over. Run back across road for refills. I drink too much that night.
- Nice buffet. Uga soup mostly run out when I get there. Salted beef lu (?) good. Lasagne surprisingly good. 2nd plate: filled with sashimi & marinated raw fish. Mango slice with ice cream (Ira ordered for me while I refill drink) for dessert. Chocolate for Alexa.
- Show is by kitchen & restaurant staff. only 3 main dancers. Apparently very few do Niuean dance now, now mostly like “Hawaiian.” High schools still do traditional dances. Moves are recent creations: piece together traditional moves to songs. Avi (?) the guy dancer; Alexa knows from 3 yrs ago.
- Return, talk about a Fijian cleaning up, wonder if is the CSer. Naisoni sounds familiar to Ira, but apparently they have both Fijian & Niuean names. Ira hear of CS from older girls earlier in evening.
- I go sleep, Alexa keep chatting with Ira.

Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 53

Day 53: (5 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Terrible sleep due to mosquitos. Lights on & look for them. Some sleep with lights on.
- Possible car with Alexa? Coffee @ Crazy Uga. Joined by the older ladies.
- Redhead pair drop by, going on tour. The other girls not coming. Get ready on island time.
- Drive across island to Anapala. See the high school, Univ. of S. Pacific. Hakupu has lots of deserted houses. Fiafia no longer? Used to be biggest village. Had school built for 200. Now only 200 elementary students in Niue. School now used for bar, village hall, etc. Used to be one school per village, now centralised(?).
- Anapala: sea track: goes onto reef. High tides, bottom steps washed by water. Very large waves, great colours when curl & break. Long rocky/reef coastline with breaking waves & splashes.
- Anapala: forest track, then chasm: steep stone steps down deep & narrow chasm. Extremely clear fresh water. Swim to other side. Gurgling & sounds scary. Deep black hole in middle. Opening on other side. Shrimp & fish clean feet. Shrimp on wound. Stubborn flies here also swarm around wound.
- Road turnoff to Anapala: does not connect. Have to drive over grass.
- Sculpture park: A few things. Wires between palm trees OK. Others feel like junk pile. Worn shoes nailed to posts. Pile of junk nailed to wood structure & more junk lying beside it. Waiting to be nailed on?
- Took opportunity to take photo of car. License & phones only 4 numbers. Easy to get vanity plate?
- Continue to Liku for Tautu. Pass Togo & Vaikona. Sign @ Vaikona: “Guided Only.”
- Tautu: walked down road, should have driven down. Terrible-looking overgrown toilets. Approach sea, see whale breach twice ~ 50m offshore, but then dissappear. Heading south. Steps down through cave/arch. Nice reef walk, small pools in reef. Coves with sand & boulders. Big waves break close, on reef edge. Visiting family show up. Girls collect beautiful shells. Collect the red seeds on walk back. Poumere (?). Same ones as see driver collect in Savai’i.
- Continue to Motu/Ulupaka cave. Car girls brought food. We should have brought lunch.
- Drive down grass & forest cor tracks to trailhead. Glad we drove in this far.
- More difficult track with steep sharp coral rock. Exposed green section. Hills. Down 2 sets of wood ladders/stairs. Fishing equipment there. See cave above. Lots of boulders down there.
- Up ladders & to hidden track on left with big spider webs above it. Depression surrounded by tall rocks. Cave hole to see ocean. Two logs propped across to prevent people falling. “Jelly stalagmites.” Other cave, evil spirits or people lived in it? Walls filled with embedded coral. Tree roots being dripped on, thin layer of hard rock now.
- See absolutely giant blowhole/cave on penninsula jutting out to north.
- Try to find blowhole, but probably no access to it.
- Lots of graves. Apparently used as survey markers? Graves in yards common throughout Pacific.
- Drive back, keep missing trailheads & deciding low interest for non-missed places.
- Stop @ Limu for swim. Lower tide. 1st pool perfectly still, as now cut off from ocean other than shallow trickle. Cleanest water I’ve seen. Just as good to watch fish from the rocks above it. 2nd pool windy & choppy, as see still connected.
- Hio Seatrack next. Beautiful sandy cove down steps. Clear translucent waves as sun gets lower. Walk on reef to caves on right. See baby urchins. Very careful. Alexa go back for camera, so bought me my reef shoes too.
- Cave had oval chunk missing from ceiling. Small pools of water, but didn’t see the supposed great snorkelling spot. (See in photos on review?) Beautiful reef sunset, good colours. Walk back to beach & car after sunset.
- Bread place open late, see on drive back. Get coconut bread with Alexa. Left overnight: OK. Later in day: filled / permeated with tiny ants, even when cut to see inside. Tinned mackerel in tomato sauce. Same as last night for dinner, with addition of mackerel, which dominated the flavour. Alexa had a bit as well.
- Photograph gecko underside, through glass blinds.
- Another night of poor sleep due to mosquito even after lights on & look for them. old girls notice my lights on late.

Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/

Monday, July 4, 2011

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 52

Day 52: (4 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- After some breakfast, cycle south. Stop @ Matavai for map & arrive Washaway just before 11am. On way: idyllic church on lawn & ocean in background. Ppl. dressed in white inside.
- Brian say not going to Washaway as forgot to put diesel in truck. Usually throws picnic table in, so can take lots of people.
- Clayton’s & other bar. Hospital blow away 2x, build inland.
- Heta has huge impact, destroying Alofi South.
- Willy & person setting up. (Didn’t realise it was Willy at first) Ask if OK to snorkel on Sunday, especially with church across from driveway hill. No prob. Apparently Willy is quite a rebel, working on Sunday (only cafĂ© open), encouraging ppl to swim. Pastor complained a few years ago.
- Swiss family.
- Snorkel. High tide, quite rough. Good coral & fish to watch. Flounder.
- The Coral Gardens couple arrive on beach.
- Large waves in distance. Remember Ana Ana. Big splashing.
- Sit under the roof / picnic table & write. Meet a tourist reading Assasin’s Creed novel.
- Order fish foccacia for lunch. Heard is good. Wait ~30 min. Sit with couple. Multiple warning signs of slow service. Should order before hungry. Big. Fresh. Tasty. Bread very good, bit crunchy outside. Willy makes his own bread.
- Self service bar seems to be self service only for locals. Brian says when busy with many tourists, Willy sometimes brings his (neice?) to help.
- Avatele pronounced “Avasele.”
- Someone greet me enthusiastically by name, I have no idea who it is. Island too small, re-meeting too many people.
- According to Willy, walk along coral to right @ low tide, can swim to snake gully @ buoy.
- Rough & choppy. See buoy, but no safe way to get out. Tide going out, but not lowest. Another advised swim back through channel. See clear pools with coral, water going up/down & spurting out of channel/holes/arches by me scary. Rock-boreing urchin.
- Cycle to Matavai. Quick visit to deck. Nice pool & great view. See point past Avatele that is tapu (found out later on). Meet the reading guy again. Staying just down the road.
- Eventually meet lots of locals & tourists. They greet me by name often.
- Leave Matavai with 1 hr before 5pm, when Kololi girls getting ride to Washaway.
- Ana’ana not signposted. Dirt loop. Big wave splashes. Loud whooshing. Almost missed overgrown trail. Down to coral rocks. 2/3 places with big splashes. Sound reminds me of volcano in Vanuatu. Spinner dolphins spinning. Large waves/swells. Jagged coral.
- Start back from 4:30. Check again around quarry, phone missing. Quarry: big story / deal from Ira & Alexa (hard to find way through), older girls & me found not bad. They indicate loses road.
- Tell police, they patrolled for me, according to them. Brian & Ira impressed, as they have not interviewed them about Brian’s expensive missing tools yet. Stolen by locals or gypsy yatchties? Story of someone setting “traps” for thiefs. Specific shoes put outside, then look for them at airport. Alexa recommended me tell tourist office as they might “put out a broadcast” for it. Never got a chance to do that.
- Bump into Brian at central services station. He say will drive me to Washaway. Leave just after 5pm.
- Stay for beers until girls show up. Wouldn’t let me pay for his beers.
- Meet Jim & Wife. They have no problems with me changing. “I forgot... well, not really forgot, Neal didn’t call me in the morning!” They were having drinks the day before.
- Nice sunset & crescent moon.
- When girls’ food arrive, I realise they ordered when they arrived, 1hr. I order @ ~6pm/6:30, get burger @ 8:30. Confusion over if order is mine or not too, I had to check with ppl who arrived after my order get theirs. Missed ice cream @ Israel Mart.
- Talk about possible car tour tomorrow. 4 Kololi girls. The car they had: never lock cars in Niue. They pick up from airport, unlocked with key in ignition.

Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/

Sunday, July 3, 2011

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 51

Day 51: (3 July 2011 (-1 in time zone)):
- Toast & marmite/hazelnut spread for breakfast.
- Late morning: walk with ladies to Stanly's for bicycle on rec. of Ira. Look @ main commercial centre. Fale Fono & police station. "One size fit all" helmet does not fit me. Old lady lead us to Stanley.
- Quite far. Cool abandoned building.
- Wave & hi to everyone.
- Crazy Uga. Very small.
- Pick up bike. I continue north. Stop @ petrol station to buy water 2 stations in Alofi. One run out later in week, & petrol prices rise to well over $3/L. One is an important store in Alofi.
- Pass Peniamina's grave. Photo. Find out later was the person who brought Christianity to Niue. Big wood signs at tourist/track locations (except AnaAna).
- Funny signs around. The don't litter signs. Can cat. Piggery. Women's Gossip. The tilted downhill sign.
- Lots of abandoned buildings around.
- "Moses" with staff, chickens, coconut. Stare with open mouth. Asked about "crazy guy." Alexa immediately know who.
- Dogs chase @ Tuapa. "Tuapa dogs." Alexa guessed where, apparently always happen & only @ Tuapa. Just yelled at them & stare. Person @ Limu said dogs bit their car tires.
- Stop @ Limu Pools. Meet couple staying at Coral Gardens.
- Down steps, pools. Bridges, tracks. 1st view of Niue water. Very blue & amazingly clear. Can see fish easily. Very welcoming.
- High tide. Tide did not cooperate this week. Low tide early & late.
- A bit rough, stay away from inlet. Heavy bluring from fresh & salt water. Fresh water cold. Dive down sometime to warm up. Some coral & fish, but net that much due to Heta damage.
- Swim through a 5m underwater tunnel, emerge in tiny pool. Trusted others who looked for me & told in room to surface. Too high on return, went to dive & kicked a low-hanging rock. Deepest & most bleed of cuts in years. Bleed for a while. Not healed until few days back. Even months later, still damaged patch and pain.
- Hear of 2nd pool. Follow trail & down ladder, over rock. Wear reef shoes to protect cut.
- Pool with arch & 2 visible springs. Water under arch deep, before the reef. Slippery. Look for snakes. Small baby snake, I get very close. Snake follow girl.
- Rinse foot at pool. Slip down but catch self. Talk to person - he lives here. Turns out is Kieth the commodore. Hydrogen peroxide paste from tourist. Expands / foams up. Causes scaring?
- Wasn't planning on going so far, but since close now, continue to Hikutavake.
- Trailhead for Matapa & Talava at same place. Early, so decide do long one: Talava.
- Talava: trail goes on & on. 3 rest areas with simple wood beam bench. Coral rocks. Careful to look back to prevent getting lost, as read is a big threat in Niue with the terrain. Eventually reach a sign & a hole in the rocks. Unexpected. Little did I know caves are the norm in Niue. Duck in, big caves. Large waves result in banging. Scary. Columns, stalagtites & stalagmites. Rope unclear if guiding or blocking. Hole can see ocean. Went towards then realise wrong way? Follow rope down & around. Under an arch, see another across a tidal pool, clear with fish & coral. View of coral rocks, but not quite pinnacles. Photo anyway. Large waves. Cave looks like giant mouth. Boulder that looks precariously perched over cave entrance. Stalagmites even on arch. Did not walk around too much, high tide anyway. See dark caves across from 1st arch. Curious, but a bit scared, so did not explore. Relief when return & exit caves. Long walk back.
- Short walk on easy wide trail to Matapa. Steep, long chasm. Some overhang walls. See waves near entrance. Rising & falling water levels. Spring, water flowing in. Quick swim. Calls continue 5-10m down. Clear blue water, some fish. Meet a friend of Mark Cross when leaving, bring 3 kids for swim. Tell me in only place that's not just them all day. Visit Niue (3rd time?). Great grandfather shipwrecked in Niue. "You must have very tough feet."
- Stop to look at map. 2 guys drinking. Ask if anything interesting / deserted village. Call over when find me from Canada, ask me to send some "white cricket balls." Said not baseball when asked. Give me address, Hon. O Talafasi, village, Niue Is. Said he's responsible for tourists. Tourist minister? His son's home is the one burned down by opposition a few weeks ago. Wikipedia: won 2008 election: 15-14. Other years run unopposed.
- Bike to Toi. No deserted village on way. Look for village shop, but stop @ village hall. Sign with "woman's gossip." Sign with piggery, pigs for haircutting,
- Long ride back. Nice varied scenery. Grass, villages, forests.
- Go to customs & bond store. Gin & Bourbon (cheap). Peter can get extra stuff. Brian drive around to try find tonic for me. Can't find. Lemon & lime bitters instead.
- Can see road through truck floor. Peter's car has wood board for seat.
- Go ~4:30. Stores open late, ~4-6 on Sat. Usually 9-4.
- Bike left anywhere. In front of main door at night.
- Geckos @ hostel, cook split peas & cabbage & macaroni for dinner. Curry powder from cupboard.
- Alexa supported by friend to room. Drunk. (was this the day or another day this happened?). Sat night is party night until 12am at rugby club.
- Very poor sleep: mosquitos.

Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/

Saturday, July 2, 2011

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 50

Day 50: (2 July 2011 (-1 in Niue):
- Wake up 5:45. Pack & out the door before 6am. Bye to Logan.
- Air Bus fares increase as of day before.
- Stop at domestic ~7:10, check e-mail for final instructions.
- Check-in, security, eat a BK croissant, slow wait. Only 5 min to boarding when get to plane.
- Call mom & board. Lots of photos of signs & boarding passes with Niue on it.
- A320?
- Surprisingly large plane & full. Found out this is the most people to arrive in Niue ever. "Historical flight." Lots of cargo being loaded. Niue reserves 2 seats to sell at last moment in case they need to bring over specialists for emergencies. Going to get duty free in Niue, but realise may not work when see amount of duty people bring on board.
- Sit with middle aged German Kiwi. Here (in NZ) over decade, 1st visit to islands. Invited by friend.
- Very nice views of Auckland & Waiheke on take off.
- In-flight map: looks like our dest is ocean. Not even labelled.
- Nice puffy clouds on descent. Sea cliffs. See Alofi. Pretty small.
- Song & dancing @ airport. Found Neal from Kololi, introduced to Ira from backpackers. No duty free @ airport. Since Jim from Niue Holiday Homes, where I am staying, is not around, so so he will take me there. Meet the two girls from Auckland at airport, going to Kololi's. Some people had leis. Handed info pack & "Welcome to Niue!" as exit airport.
- Pass modern public works bld., NZ high commission.
- The place was a bit run down, no one around, so Neal let me in. Chickens, mosquitos. ~1km out of town.
- Change & wait maybe 30min or more, reading, etc. Decide walk into town.
- Stop @ Alofi Rentals, ask about bike: $15/day, $90/week. Will decide later. Continue walk.
- Past backpackers, Ira see me, give me coconut. Brian fed to chickens after I drank it, not realising I was to eat it. Gave me a coconut later, which I kept in the fridge & drank & ate the next day. I opened it with a heavy knife in kitchen.
- Brian took me to Swan & Son supermarket to get supplies.
- Brian & Ira: "they always complain no tourists, when there is one, they don't take care of them." Mention they have a room free if I like. Owner of other place, Jim is a friend & con't mind. They have room b/c a girl didn't confirm, but inquired, & didn't show up. I thought staying half/half would be OK, but they said no problem to move now.
- Drive back to Jim's. Was going to have Brian ask, but still no one around, so take my stuff & go to backpackers.
- Very nice. Large & clean common room & kitchen. Lots of books, more downstairs. Realise why they were filled up: only 4 rooms, they don't put strangers in same room. Alexa, friend, visit. 2 older ladies together, but in separate rooms. Alexa: 2 weeks. Ladies: 3 weeks. Only one room left!
- Pile of freshly-picked pawpaw.
- Sit downstairs & chat. Ira discuss with me what to do in Niue. Very detailed.
- Ask Brian if he knows Peter, a Samoan builder, since Brian is builder, turns out Peter is working on his bathroom! Say hi to Peter (met in Apia).
- When ask where to buy drinks, found out most shops closed. Only expensive wine @ 40/bottle available in a small store. Custom & bond store does duty free up to 3 or 4 days after arrival, if shown boarding pass! Nice system.
- Find out apparently island is out of beer. No beer brought on the last monthly boat (due to mistake?), this boat is late. Some beer airlifted with flight, but now is $5/can (440ml), instead of $2/can. Only canned beer allowed on island. Mail not delivered to make room for beer on plane.
- Meet the two ladies. One live on Waiheke, one moved to remote location in South Island (Marlbourough Sounds?) ~ 12 years ago.
- Meet Alexa, from Wellington, stayed in Niue for 8 months 3 years ago. Bike accident. Medivac to NZ, by Aus. chopper. Insurance run out. $70k, 1/2 paid by church.
- Brian give me drinks downstairs.
- Ira told me girls from Kololi's at Jenna's, had me go over. Bring my drink over, I may have forgotten my glass there. Plan to meet @ police @ 10am on Sunday with bicycles to go South.
- Hear whales arrive day before.
- Fetched to go to dinner at Falala Fa. Peter decide not to join us. Grilled fish. Chat. Pretty drunk. They bought wine for all.
- Story about prev. owner, some family member? Keep money in vault, gov. had to get him to deposit his $30k, as bank needed money.
- All seem to be unhappy with the way gov. handled Alexa's accident, asked for departure tax after left (with Brian).
- Talk about hair cuttings $ ear piercings ritual. Large tin of corned beef goes around. Keep under bed.
- Alexa knows Brian & Ira through their daughter. Apparently her parents, pastor(?) of church with lots of Niueans. or knew pastor of Niuean people's church.

Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/

Friday, July 1, 2011

2011 - NZ To SF - Day 49

Day 49: (1 July 2011):
- Discover phone charger not mine. Swap in Lalomanu when the guy borrowed mine & I took someone else's?
- Weather looks nice outside. Can see blue sky. Check out & store luggage in lockers. Decide walk up Mt. Victoria.
- Food from New World again. Just so tempting & easy as have to walk by it.
- Text Steffan. Say just about to leave, arrive ~1pm. Realise he in Wanganui.
- Up steep stairs from Oriental. By church. Nice residential areas. Road with nice view of city. View of ship & hills with cloud/fog in distance.
- Eventually found way to park entrance. Say Mt. Vic observation, so decide follow.
- Map. Follow steep trail straight up to observation pt. Nice greens & parks on way.
- Great view of city, Hutt(?), airport & other side of bay.
- Missed biggest plane take off due to ppl. ask me to take photo. Was all ready to take photo of take-off.
- Stayed for a while & walk to Te Papa.
- Visited the marae. Lots of school children in uniforms at Te Papa.
- Didn't see a few of the shows, incl. "Golden Ages(?)." Saw some exhibits in more detail, including learning a lot about ponamu. & outside.
- Steffan arrive, with texts, meet in the main lobby area.
- Walk to town for lunch. Realise Wellington centre much better than Auckland centre.
- Grab a drink, $ when late enough, call Mario to confirm I can have tour of Sidhe.
- Walk around a bit. Internet @ library. Try to organise accomodation in Niue. Backpackers full, asked for recs. Have 2 e-mail addresses. Cannot call Niue with my phone card. "Free Internet" & "Paid Internet" button.
- Sidhe across street from library & supermarket.
- Bathroom @ Steffan's hotel. Hilarious floor naming there.
- Tour of Sidhe. Sound guy isolated on separate level (other companies on that level too).
- Show & tell. See Josh. (Saw earlier when touring: just pressing a button on controller repeatedly at that time. Offices very quiet. Beer.
- The 2 guesthouses also full. One said he can find me one just outside town for $35. Another replied & copied many ppl, including tourism office to ask for help. Check on Steffan's phone. I take $35. Others wish me a good trip. Tell me to ask for Kololi guy at airport.
- Leave ~6:15. Walk back, bathroom. Final pack. Bus to airport: 1hr before flight.
- Easy auto-checkin. Eat mean (missed out on curry). Go to gate, and near boarding. Flying is a pleasure with Air NZ.
- Long wait for luggage in Auckland, almost 30 min. Still like Air NZ. People getting impatient.
- Back to Logan's. E-mail. Sleep. Link connection just in time.
- Night was very cold, even in sleeping bag. Air mattress deflate overnight, a valve was improperly closed.

Photos available at: http://marklitraveljournal.blogspot.com/